Salut! To Italian Wines

article and photo by Frank Mangio

I’ve been doing a lot of saluting lately as Italian wines are bursting with new, beautiful releases up and down the peninsula.

There is no country quite like Italy with its varied complexity of varietals, from lovely whites at the northern border district of Trentino-Alto Adige to the dark, deep luster of Sicilian reds. There are over 300 regions sanctioned by the government, making wines from over 2,000 grape varietals.

Wine making has been going on for over 3,000 years. Unlike California which labels its wines by the grape, Italians label their wines by the district. A Sangiovese grape wine is labeled Chianti, a Nebbiolo grape wine is labeled Barolo or Barbaresco, favorite locations for the making of that wine.

Two recent wine tastings had me happily declaring the recent 2006 releases as the best since 2001: a gathering at When In Rome in Encinitas where Italian wine expert Marco Barat was holding court as special guest of G.M. Daniel Shaffer. Marco, in addition to his humorous one-liners, waxed poetic on five wines from Puglia, on the southeastern coast of Italy.


A Taste of Wine columnist Frank Mangio, When in Rome Manager Daniel Shaffer and Italian wine specialist Marco Barat.

As Daniel served Italian courses like “Grillata di Pesce” with halibut cheeks and scallops to add to the “Specialita d’ Puglia,” orichette pasta, broccoli and salcicccia, Marco poured the 2006 Feudi San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino and Ognissole Primitivo di Mandura. Both were beautifully balanced reds with light fruit to accent the floral, honey and coffee-like earthy flavors that are oh-so Italy. The capper was a 2001 Feudi San Gregorio di Aglianico Taurasi, a 94 point Robert Parker favorite. It retails for about $56.

Over to Wine Street in Carlsbad for their “Italian Harvest” of offerings, the two best bets from 2006 were: a Nero D’Avola from Chiaramonte, a delicious red from Sicily and a Taste of Wine previous Top Ten Taste ( $16.99); and a Romitorio Morelllino di Scansano ($19.99). Both are now selling at Wine Street. Ten of the top 100 wines in the world, as named by the influential Wine Spectator are from Italy. The highest rated was Pio Casare Barola, 2004 ( $62.)

A Journey Through Temecula Holiday Wine Country
Christmas and New Years Eve wine dinners, a light festival, hay rides, wine gift shops and much more will make Temecula Wine Country a must-enjoy for the holidays. Now through December 29, Keyways Winery has a holiday light festival from 6 to 9pm daily with hayrides and other activities. As with Ponte Winery which has theirs until December 23, you can marvel at over 200,000 LED lights that stretch over vineyards and rooftops. It’s family style fun and entertainment. For more at Keyways call 951-302-7888. For Ponte, 951-694-8855.

New Year’s eve is memorable as many wineries host special events:
South Coast Winery has its elegant dinner, dance and celebration at Vineyard Rose. You can also stay in one of the luxury vineyard villas. Reserve at 951-587-9463, ext 7230.

Wiens Family Cellars has “Jungle Boogie” with dinner, live music, dancing and animals from the Wild Animal Park. Call for RSVP’s at 951-694-9892.

Keyways has an all-star music concert with its dinner and dancing, including Ambrosia. Details at 951-302-7888.

Wilson Creek Winery has a “Sail Into the New year” extravaganza at their new events center. Call 951-699-9463.

Thornton Winery will have its gala including dinner, dancing and balloon drop. Get the full story at 951-699-0099. A good way to see all the Wine Country fun is by Going Grape and its holiday transportation tour packages. They are local and know the winemakers personally. For reservations, call 951-852-1923.

Wine Bytes
The Fallbrook Visitors Bureau is presenting a Wine & A Bite Holiday Walk through the historic downtown area, 4 to 7pm on Sat. Dec. 13. Sip wine, indulge in great food and shop the distinctive stores. Ten restaurants and Fallbrook Winery are providing nice food and drink. $10. pp, $15. at the door. Call for RSVP’s at 760-451-3282.

Big Bold Reds is the theme of the wine tasting at Vino 100 in San Marcos Fri. and Sat. from 5 to 9pm. Cost is $15. ea. For more, contact Vino 100 at 760-591-9113.

Holiday wine tasting is sure to please at the 3rd Corner Wine Shop and Bistro in Encinitas Sat. Dec. 13 from 2 to 5pm. Tasting fee is $10. for 10 tastings. RSVP requested at 760-942-2104.

San Diego Wine Company on Miramar Road has its annual top ten values to taste on Sat. Dec. 13 during business hours for just $10. or just $1. with an unwrapped toy or gift card to benefit a childrens fund. More at 858-586-9463.

Nero d’Avola From Sicily- the Newest Great Red

by Frnk Mangio

A year and a half ago, when I first wrote about my ancestral homeland’s native grape, the reaction was a shrug and a nod. I had been served a Chiaramonte
Nero d’Avola at a posh steak restaurant at the MGM Grand in Las Vegas, and to my surprise it was an amazingly lovely red wine. I have been a fan ever since. Now, a new generation of committed winemakers in Sicily have come up with a wide variety of this increasingly popular black beauty. Sicily is usually spared the wide eccentricities of Italian weather patterns. Each harvest is similar in quality. Now, you will find many of the 2005 releases, reasonably priced in the 9 to 2o dollar level. I find them deep, dark, mysterious and with a strong blackberry taste; very Syrah-like in texture.

The brand to look for is Planeta, with the ’04 winning the “best of tasting at a recent comparison tasting at the Wall Street Journal’s wine column. They called it “elegant, with chocolate, blackberry and earth…lingering balance…a real sense of place.” Planeta costs a little bit more than the rest but it’s aged in French Oak for 12 months after harvest. You can lay it down for about 7 years and the taste will shine even more. The vineyard is around Noto, which is like Montalcino is to Tuscany. If you're visiting, Noto is along the southeast coast, below Syracusa.

La Cereza Announces Sangiovese Release

by Cheri Linn

It was bound to happen eventually; it was never a matter of “if,” but only “when.” In congruence with the winery’s Mediterranean flair and winemaking gumption, and to the delight of its many fans (and hopefully soon-to-be fans), La Cereza is preparing to “up the stakes” with the first-ever release of a Sangiovese wine.

So what is it about this wine that’s causing so much buzz among the folks at La Cereza?

Well, perhaps it was the wine’s immaculate reception during its premier at Temecula Valleys Harvest Barrel Tasting, held November 3 – 4, 2007.

The barrel tasting allowed participating Temecula wineries to showcase their “best of the best” to about a thousand wine drinkers, many of whom had yet to experience some of the hidden gems found only in Temecula. Never to be outshined, La Cereza audaciously introduced a wine that was essentially still in the works at the time; a wine that hasn’t even been bottled yet (creating for many a truly authentic barrel-tasting experience), and had never been released under the La Cereza label.

“We feel that this wine is particularly special, “ said Buddy Linn, owner of La Cereza Vineyard and Winery. “Not only because it’s a new endeavor for us, but because it just tastes so darn good. And now after such a successful reception during the tasting, we’re even more excited about its release.”

Produced by La Cereza’s winemaker Gus Vizgirda and his staff, this earthy, fruit-forward wine is similar in style to many of the Sangiovese wines grown in California.

“It’s a little bigger, a little fruitier than its Italian cousin, “said Vizgirda. “It has aromas a bit more subtle than some other reds, but has a mid-palate loaded with spice, ripe strawberry, blueberry and vanilla, along with some faint floral and violet accents. The acidity is even and balanced and the tannins are very soft and smooth.”

Introduced in California in the late 1800’s by Italian Immigrants, this noble and ancient grape varietal, originally called Sanguis Jovis, the Latin translation for “Blood of Jove,” traces its ancestry back thousands of years, as it is believed to have been cultivated by the pre-Roman Etruscans. Since then, Sangiovese has flourished in Northern Italy’s Tuscan region, known by most wine drinkers as Chianti. Well-suited to southern California’s hot, dry summers, paired with consistent sunny days, Californian wine growers, however, are now beginning to see astonishing results in the production of this grape.

And La Cereza is proud to now be among those ranks.

Folks interested in purchasing La Cereza’s Sangiovese can do so by filling out a pre-order sheet at the winery, by telephone (1-951-676-1711), or at the winery’s website at www.lacerezawinery.com. This wine can be purchased for $18.95.

PORT: It Isn't Just for Dessert Anymore...

by Frank Mangio

I have noticed that many more wine dinners offered by upscale restaurants, are serving some lovely sweet or dessert wines. Most delicate pastries demand a sweet Port, late harvest Riesling, Ice wine or my favorite, the Muscat Canelli.
This southern French and Italian style dessert wine is made from the Muscat grape. More about that later.

I was interested in how the wines get so sweet as to be a dessert in itself. Grapes that are used have to be very high in sugar content. They get that way by being picked after the normal harvest. The sugar may be maximized by allowing the grapes to “raisinate” by laying out on racks before crushing. This waiting process is labor intensive and makes for a more expensive price point for the wines.

Alcohol levels are higher, usually 16 to 19% due to the very high sugar level.

Now to the lovely Muscat Canelli. Muscat grapes were known to have been some of the oldest in France and Italy, brought in by the Phoenicians and Greeks.

The aromas on these dessert wines are captivating. They reek of racy tastes like orange, melon, peaches and apricot. With the holidays fast approaching, the popularity of these dessert wines increases. They have a settling quality about them after a king-size meal. Now here’s a large sized tip for you. Some of the best Muscat Canellis in the country are from the Temecula Valley. Recently the Wall Street Journal profiled this lovely dessert wine and found two from this neighborhood appellation that they thought were among the best. Another surprise was these Muscats were lower than normal on the alcohol, about 10 to 12%, and although sweet, contained enough acidity to balance the innate sweetness. Served chilled, it relaxes the mind, and the heart.

The two Temecula wineries that made the short Wall Street Journal list of best Muscat Canelli Wines were: Maurice Car’rie ’06 for about $12.95 and Callaway’s ’05 for about $18. Check them out at www.mauricecarriewinery.com.
and www.callawaywinery.com.