by Frank Mangio
It was five years ago that I first heard the Rhone Valley story from an early enthusiast, the late Leon Santoro who made wine at Orfila in San Diego County. He could hardly contain his excitement when talking about Syrah and Viognier, his two favorite Rhone grape varietals from this ever-more interesting wine country in the south of France.
He had joined the “Rhone Rangers,” an organization of mostly Paso Robles winemakers dedicated to showing the wine world that Rhone grapes can be made into rich and satisfying wines. Names to know that are Rhone Valley based include: Syrah (also known as Shiraz in Australia) the most planted Rhone grape in California. Full flavored berry, with aromas of smoke, bacon and crushed rock. Petite Sirah is a cross between Syrah and Peloursin. It’s extremely dark in color with big tannins and needs some lay-down time to flourish.
Grenache is the world’s 2nd most planted wine grape with aromas of red fruit, licorice and black pepper. Lots of cherry flavor.
Carignane produces wine high in acidity and tannin and does best in old vineyards. Mourvedre is the latest ripening grape and is now undergoing a big popularity push. Chocolate, leather and earth aromas. Plum and spice flavors. Viognier is the highly aromatic white wine with excellent peach, apricot and mango flavors and aroma with low acidity. Roussanne has tastes of honey and pear, with rose petal and nutty aromas and moderate acidity. Others to look for are Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Picpoul Blanc, Cinsault and Counoise.
The vintage to look for, both in France’s Rhone Valley and Paso Robles is the 2005, considered to an inflection point for southern French style wines. The latest releases are now up to 2007, with some 2008 bottles showing up on the shelves of wineries and wine shops. An elite area in the south Rhone Valley is Chateauneuf-du-pape where a blend of Granache and Mourvedre, grown in the rockiest soil in France, yields ripe, fleshy definition to the wines. This is well known to Jason Haas, whose family combined with a leading vineyard in the south Rhone area, Chateau de Beaucastel, chose Paso Robles in 1989 for a new vineyard. They purchased a 120 acres to grow Rhone style wine grapes, a first for Paso.
They named the new winery Tablas Creek. It took quite a while to plant and develop the old world cuttings and clones. Finally they enough to do business in 1992. Now, they are used not only by their winery, but by some 400 others. Tablas Creek itself sells about 18,000 cases. Easily the most elegant of the Rhone style, the winery chooses to blend, making wines that are richer and better balanced. Its 2007 Esprit de Beaucastel combines Mouvedre, Grenache, Syrah and Counoise and sells for $50. in most shops.
The Rhone Rangers promotional group will have their annual Southern California Tasting in Santa Monica at Pier 59 Studios West on Sunday August 8 from 2 to 5pm. 50 wineries will join in the event. For questions and pricing, check 800-467-0163 or access their web site, full of detailed information about this leading French terroir at www.rhonerangers.org
Wine Bytes
Delicias Restaurant in Rancho Santa Fe is kicking off complimentary wine tastings every Thurs. and Fri. from 6 to 7:3opm. General Manager and wine man extraordinaire Gino Campbell is building up his wine cellar and wants customers to tell him what’s great, so come by and try. No RSVP required. For more info, call 858-756-8000.
Belle Marie Winery in Escondido has its summer pre-release party Sat. July 17 from 2 to 4pm in the Barrel Room. Favorite new wines are being served at no charge. Open house format so stay as long as you can. No food served. Try the newest and the best. Call 760-796-7557.
Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas presents a Napa Valley Vintners Tasting Sat. July 17 from 6 to 8:30pm. Food from nearby Bentley’s. Wine names like Lail, Elyse, Frank Family and many more top quality wineries are expected to pour. Cost is $40. pp. Call 760-479-2500.
Wilson Creek Winery in Temecula brings Hollwood U2, the best U2 Tribute Band to its stage Sat. July17 from 7 to 10pm. Cost is $49. ea. $44. for club members. Make contact at www.wilsoncreekwinerycom.
Mille Fleurs in the heart of Rancho Santa Fe is hosting an elegant dinner with award winning Fritz Wines of Napa Valley Tues. July 20. Meet winemaker Clay Fritz. 5 course dinner cost is $95. Details call 619-221-8024.
Soro’s Mediterranean Grill in Old Town Temecula has a fun filled night at its first Fedora Hat Night Wed. July 21 at 6pm. Classic Mediterranean flavors will be paired with wines, with live music to perfect the atmosphere of Fedora hats and 30’s style outfits. RSVP at 951-587-8082.
Carlsbad Wine Merchants has their Wine, Music and New Menu rockin’ on Friday nights. Small bite food offerings are heavy on luscious salads. First music set starts at 6pm. Call 760-804-9994 for this week’s lineup.
Canapes in San Marcos has outdoor entertainment in the patio with a Frank Sinatra Review on Sat. July 24, 6:30 to 9:30pm. Enjoy unique dining selections, smart wine list and great music at James Allyn’s Canapes. RSVP a table at 760-510-2088.
Showing posts with label leon santoro. Show all posts
Showing posts with label leon santoro. Show all posts
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
Friday, March 5, 2010
Taste of Wine TV's “How to Taste” is Most Watched
by Frank Mangio
I had good cause to break open a favorite red the other day as the news crossed my computer that my wine appreciation video on You Tube “How to Taste Wine” had surpassed the Wine Spectator version. No only that, other versions had just half the viewers we have attracted. The Taste of Wine TV count of a short and long conversation is now: 19,899 and 37,605 respectively. You may view the short version by Clicking Here or the longer version by Clicking Here
It’s always a good idea to occasionally think about the essence of wine tasting and how to get the most out of the experience.
Photo:The late Leon Santoro who was a brilliant winemaker from Orfila Winery in Escondido California was the best wine taster I ever knew.
Anyone can drink wine. You raise the glass and down it goes. That may be acceptable for some. But with over 5,000 different wines available, each one just a little bit different from the next in several ways, a simple four step guide goes a long way in measuring thequality of a wine choice. I call it a four part harmony “S” test.
Wine tasting really begins with the valuable information on the label.
You learn about the vineyard, location, harvest year and the winemaker’s philosophy of the wine’s value. With a wide bowled, “tulip” style glass that is not cluttered by silly design elements, you are now ready to judge a wine by the following characteristics:
Sight – including color and clarity.
Swirl – aerating the wine and observing its “legs.”
Sniff – smelling its aroma and body.
Sip – tasting the wine, and the lasting effect of its taste.
Sight is like viewing a portrait for rich color and texture. After pouring an amount of wine, about a third of the size of the glass, view the content from the top of the glass. The wine should be clear with no sediment. With whites it will appear more intense in Chardonnay than say a Riesling. With reds, Cabernet should have a deeper, darker color than say a Pinot Noir. Next, swirl the wine by holding the stem tightly and rotate in a counter clockwise direction, but not so hard that the wine spills over the side. You are aerating, allowing air to penetrate the wine and release lovely aromas. Look for the “legs” or residue on the side of the glass. This is evaporated alcohol. If the lines are thick and “leggy” then you have a stronger, alcohol-forward wine. 14% or more alcohol content will show itself as “leggy.”
The smell of the wine is its “bouquet” or “the nose” of the wine.
There are over 200 different scents attributed to wine, but you may just smell wine, and that’s OK too. I recommend getting your nose down into the bowl and do short, sharp inhalations for the most revealing sensation. Don’t analyze too much, just enjoy!
The final, most enjoyable climax to this four part harmony is the sip, and you might add swallow as another by-product of the last “S” to find wines you really love. Slowly let the liquid envelope the many taste buds you possess in your mouth and tongue. It’s a wild ride of flavors: fruits, vegetables, grains and nuts, spices, flowers, earth, oak, honey…and… (you fill in the rest).
So there it is! Sight – Swirl – Smell – Sip. Salute!
Family Winemakers Gather in Del Mar
California is home to many small production winemakers who place quality over quantity. Wine lovers will have an opportunity to meet and taste many of these wineries in a public event at the Del Mar Fairgrounds Sunday March 14 from 3 to 6pm. The list of wines is impressive and includes: Chalk Hill, Ecluse, Elizabeth Spencer, Frank Family, Hall, Halter Ranch, JUSTIN, Pisoni, Spring Mountain and ZD, just to name a few. Cost is $45. in advance and $55. at the door. To purchase tickets, go to www.familywinemakers.org. For questions, call 415-705-0646.
Wine Bytes
§ Bistro 39 in the Hilton Garden Inn at San Diego’s Sorrento Valley has a Napa Cabs event Sat. March 13 from 3:30 to 5:30pm. Four exceptional wineries will be tasted and discussed. Cost is $20. ea. For more information call 858-720-9500.
§ Gary Parker’s WineSellar and Brasserie, also in Sorrento Valley, has a Burgundy Bliss Wine Dinner Fri. March 12. 6pm start. 6:30pm dinner. $88. pp. Wines are from Gary’s own collection. RSVP at 858-450-9557.
§ Next San Diego State University wine class is Dynamic Wine and Food Pairing Sat. March 13 from 9 to 4:30pm at Wilson Creek Winery in Temecula. The class is part of a wine certification. Call 619-594-6924 for pricing.
§ Tesoro Winery in old town Temecula has a benefit wine event for Homeless Prevention Sun. March 21 from Noon to 4pm. Special $8. tastings will be offered with all fees being donated to the cause. For more call 951-308-0000.
I had good cause to break open a favorite red the other day as the news crossed my computer that my wine appreciation video on You Tube “How to Taste Wine” had surpassed the Wine Spectator version. No only that, other versions had just half the viewers we have attracted. The Taste of Wine TV count of a short and long conversation is now: 19,899 and 37,605 respectively. You may view the short version by Clicking Here or the longer version by Clicking Here
It’s always a good idea to occasionally think about the essence of wine tasting and how to get the most out of the experience.
Photo:The late Leon Santoro who was a brilliant winemaker from Orfila Winery in Escondido California was the best wine taster I ever knew.
Anyone can drink wine. You raise the glass and down it goes. That may be acceptable for some. But with over 5,000 different wines available, each one just a little bit different from the next in several ways, a simple four step guide goes a long way in measuring thequality of a wine choice. I call it a four part harmony “S” test.
Wine tasting really begins with the valuable information on the label.
You learn about the vineyard, location, harvest year and the winemaker’s philosophy of the wine’s value. With a wide bowled, “tulip” style glass that is not cluttered by silly design elements, you are now ready to judge a wine by the following characteristics:
Sight – including color and clarity.
Swirl – aerating the wine and observing its “legs.”
Sniff – smelling its aroma and body.
Sip – tasting the wine, and the lasting effect of its taste.
Sight is like viewing a portrait for rich color and texture. After pouring an amount of wine, about a third of the size of the glass, view the content from the top of the glass. The wine should be clear with no sediment. With whites it will appear more intense in Chardonnay than say a Riesling. With reds, Cabernet should have a deeper, darker color than say a Pinot Noir. Next, swirl the wine by holding the stem tightly and rotate in a counter clockwise direction, but not so hard that the wine spills over the side. You are aerating, allowing air to penetrate the wine and release lovely aromas. Look for the “legs” or residue on the side of the glass. This is evaporated alcohol. If the lines are thick and “leggy” then you have a stronger, alcohol-forward wine. 14% or more alcohol content will show itself as “leggy.”
The smell of the wine is its “bouquet” or “the nose” of the wine.
There are over 200 different scents attributed to wine, but you may just smell wine, and that’s OK too. I recommend getting your nose down into the bowl and do short, sharp inhalations for the most revealing sensation. Don’t analyze too much, just enjoy!
The final, most enjoyable climax to this four part harmony is the sip, and you might add swallow as another by-product of the last “S” to find wines you really love. Slowly let the liquid envelope the many taste buds you possess in your mouth and tongue. It’s a wild ride of flavors: fruits, vegetables, grains and nuts, spices, flowers, earth, oak, honey…and… (you fill in the rest).
So there it is! Sight – Swirl – Smell – Sip. Salute!
Family Winemakers Gather in Del Mar
California is home to many small production winemakers who place quality over quantity. Wine lovers will have an opportunity to meet and taste many of these wineries in a public event at the Del Mar Fairgrounds Sunday March 14 from 3 to 6pm. The list of wines is impressive and includes: Chalk Hill, Ecluse, Elizabeth Spencer, Frank Family, Hall, Halter Ranch, JUSTIN, Pisoni, Spring Mountain and ZD, just to name a few. Cost is $45. in advance and $55. at the door. To purchase tickets, go to www.familywinemakers.org. For questions, call 415-705-0646.
Wine Bytes
§ Bistro 39 in the Hilton Garden Inn at San Diego’s Sorrento Valley has a Napa Cabs event Sat. March 13 from 3:30 to 5:30pm. Four exceptional wineries will be tasted and discussed. Cost is $20. ea. For more information call 858-720-9500.
§ Gary Parker’s WineSellar and Brasserie, also in Sorrento Valley, has a Burgundy Bliss Wine Dinner Fri. March 12. 6pm start. 6:30pm dinner. $88. pp. Wines are from Gary’s own collection. RSVP at 858-450-9557.
§ Next San Diego State University wine class is Dynamic Wine and Food Pairing Sat. March 13 from 9 to 4:30pm at Wilson Creek Winery in Temecula. The class is part of a wine certification. Call 619-594-6924 for pricing.
§ Tesoro Winery in old town Temecula has a benefit wine event for Homeless Prevention Sun. March 21 from Noon to 4pm. Special $8. tastings will be offered with all fees being donated to the cause. For more call 951-308-0000.
Friday, February 6, 2009
A Man of the Soil – Leon Santoro: 1950-2009
Article and Photo by Frank Mangio
The wine world was saddened when one of its greats passed away January 22nd of a festering lung disease known as Pulminary Fibrosis. Leon Santoro and I used to stroll his vineyards at Orfila Winery in Escondido, his 30 some years of experience weaving a master’s touch to the grapes we tasted and the vines he described, as a father would to a son. The man that would deliver more than 1,300 medals for brilliant wines to Orfila, proving that fine wines could be produced in Southern California, left us much too soon.
Leon’s life started in Villa Santa Maria near Abruzzi, northeast of Rome. He was exposed to winemaking at an early age but was groomed to be a chef. He came to the U.S. at age 17 and earned a degree in chemistry. But wine was in his blood and he successfully applied for a junior winemaking job at Louis Martini Winery in the fabled Napa Valley of Calfornia. His next appointment was with the Stag’s Leap Winery owned by the famed winemaker Warren Winiarski, who had already established himself as a premier Cabernet Sauvignon producer by beating the French in the historic “Paris Tasting” of 1976. With Leon’s help, Stags Leap went on to win double gold in the London Wine Festival of 1978. Leon often called Winiarski his mentor.
I talked to the now retired Winiarski about this. “Leon made valuable contributions to our success. He was an exacting man with great commitment to vineyard management. He always looked at things differently and offered suggestions of great invention. We were fortunate to have the opportunity of his ideas to improve the winery.”
Leon Santoro, (shown at Orfila Winery) sampling the ’05 Heritage Syrah.
After years of impressive performance in the Napa Valley, Leon turned his attention to a challenge in the little-known San Diego County wine country and in 1991 began his brilliant 2nd career in winemaking in what was to become Orfila Winery in Escondido. Allejandro Orfila purchased the winery in 1993 only because Leon assured him he would stay and transform the winery into a world-class fine wine vineyard and winery. “I saw in Leon a man of strong personality who loved winemaking. He was the only asset the winery had. I knew then we would make the perfect team,” Orfila said.
Leon proceeded to take out the existing Chardonnay and graft grapes suited to the land: Mediterranean style Syrah and Sangiovese from France and Italy. The 70 acre estate over the years took on a distinctly red look to it and shined in the spotlight when Leon was named the 2003 Winemaker of the Year by the prestigious California Travel Association. A year later, I began my friendship with Leon, writing about this man who made such beautiful wines.
In 2006, in the middle of one of our tasting room meetings, he offered me a sip of a wine he had been cultivating for some time and was releasing with the odd name of Viognier, Lot 45. It was a stunning white blend of 73% viognier, with some marsanne and rousanne, grapes from the Rhone Valley of France. I immediately knew it would be a sensation and made it one of my Top Ten Wines of 2006. Leon then took it to Bordeaux France for international competition and won a gold medal, then another in the San Francisco competition. His latest Viognier release, Lot 67, made my Top Ten in 2008.
Larry Himmel, a veteran broadcaster in San Diego and long-time family friend said of Leon.
“He was passionate not only about wine, he was passionate about family(Leon left his wife Carla and two small children, Ryan and Amy), and passionate about life. You met Leon once and he was your best friend. We became great buds over the years, sharing our stories and his amazing wines. When I lost my house in the wildfire (2007), next day Leon sent me the gift I needed most…a case of wine. Those bottles got my wife and I through some tough times.”
Linda Kissam, a respected wine marketer in Southern California called Leon “one of the most talented, charming and engaging personalities in the California wine business. Although he was fiercely competitive, there was a softer, huggable side the he allowed to come out whenever we would meet.”
In a signature message on a bottle of his Heritage Syrah, Leon wrote me on July 10th of last year when his condition was becoming worse, “To my dear friend Frank. Wishing you a happy and long life. Ciao, Leon Santoro.”
Wish you were still here Leon. We will miss you, but I know you’re happy in your new heavenly vineyard making fine wines that are strong and true.
A scholarship fund has been set up to help Carla and Leon’s children with their higher education. To learn more, contact Steve Harrington at 1st Pacific Bank, 3500 College Blvd, Oceanside, Ca. Phone 760-477-2970.
(Wine Bytes recommending wine events will return next week)
Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur, certified by Wine Spectator. His columns can be viewed here each week. He is one of the top wine commentators on the web. Email him at mangiompc@aol.com
News and winery reviews for this site can be sent to winenews@tasteofwinetv.com
The wine world was saddened when one of its greats passed away January 22nd of a festering lung disease known as Pulminary Fibrosis. Leon Santoro and I used to stroll his vineyards at Orfila Winery in Escondido, his 30 some years of experience weaving a master’s touch to the grapes we tasted and the vines he described, as a father would to a son. The man that would deliver more than 1,300 medals for brilliant wines to Orfila, proving that fine wines could be produced in Southern California, left us much too soon.
Leon’s life started in Villa Santa Maria near Abruzzi, northeast of Rome. He was exposed to winemaking at an early age but was groomed to be a chef. He came to the U.S. at age 17 and earned a degree in chemistry. But wine was in his blood and he successfully applied for a junior winemaking job at Louis Martini Winery in the fabled Napa Valley of Calfornia. His next appointment was with the Stag’s Leap Winery owned by the famed winemaker Warren Winiarski, who had already established himself as a premier Cabernet Sauvignon producer by beating the French in the historic “Paris Tasting” of 1976. With Leon’s help, Stags Leap went on to win double gold in the London Wine Festival of 1978. Leon often called Winiarski his mentor.
I talked to the now retired Winiarski about this. “Leon made valuable contributions to our success. He was an exacting man with great commitment to vineyard management. He always looked at things differently and offered suggestions of great invention. We were fortunate to have the opportunity of his ideas to improve the winery.”
Leon Santoro, (shown at Orfila Winery) sampling the ’05 Heritage Syrah.After years of impressive performance in the Napa Valley, Leon turned his attention to a challenge in the little-known San Diego County wine country and in 1991 began his brilliant 2nd career in winemaking in what was to become Orfila Winery in Escondido. Allejandro Orfila purchased the winery in 1993 only because Leon assured him he would stay and transform the winery into a world-class fine wine vineyard and winery. “I saw in Leon a man of strong personality who loved winemaking. He was the only asset the winery had. I knew then we would make the perfect team,” Orfila said.
Leon proceeded to take out the existing Chardonnay and graft grapes suited to the land: Mediterranean style Syrah and Sangiovese from France and Italy. The 70 acre estate over the years took on a distinctly red look to it and shined in the spotlight when Leon was named the 2003 Winemaker of the Year by the prestigious California Travel Association. A year later, I began my friendship with Leon, writing about this man who made such beautiful wines.
In 2006, in the middle of one of our tasting room meetings, he offered me a sip of a wine he had been cultivating for some time and was releasing with the odd name of Viognier, Lot 45. It was a stunning white blend of 73% viognier, with some marsanne and rousanne, grapes from the Rhone Valley of France. I immediately knew it would be a sensation and made it one of my Top Ten Wines of 2006. Leon then took it to Bordeaux France for international competition and won a gold medal, then another in the San Francisco competition. His latest Viognier release, Lot 67, made my Top Ten in 2008.
Larry Himmel, a veteran broadcaster in San Diego and long-time family friend said of Leon.
“He was passionate not only about wine, he was passionate about family(Leon left his wife Carla and two small children, Ryan and Amy), and passionate about life. You met Leon once and he was your best friend. We became great buds over the years, sharing our stories and his amazing wines. When I lost my house in the wildfire (2007), next day Leon sent me the gift I needed most…a case of wine. Those bottles got my wife and I through some tough times.”
Linda Kissam, a respected wine marketer in Southern California called Leon “one of the most talented, charming and engaging personalities in the California wine business. Although he was fiercely competitive, there was a softer, huggable side the he allowed to come out whenever we would meet.”
In a signature message on a bottle of his Heritage Syrah, Leon wrote me on July 10th of last year when his condition was becoming worse, “To my dear friend Frank. Wishing you a happy and long life. Ciao, Leon Santoro.”
Wish you were still here Leon. We will miss you, but I know you’re happy in your new heavenly vineyard making fine wines that are strong and true.
A scholarship fund has been set up to help Carla and Leon’s children with their higher education. To learn more, contact Steve Harrington at 1st Pacific Bank, 3500 College Blvd, Oceanside, Ca. Phone 760-477-2970.
(Wine Bytes recommending wine events will return next week)
Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur, certified by Wine Spectator. His columns can be viewed here each week. He is one of the top wine commentators on the web. Email him at mangiompc@aol.com
News and winery reviews for this site can be sent to winenews@tasteofwinetv.com
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Leon Santoro: A Great Winemaker, and a Great Guy...
Article and photo by Janene Roberts (Wine Girl)
“You’re a romantic,” Leon Santoro tells me as I sit across from him in his office at Orfila Winery in Escondido.
“It takes one to know one,” I respond. He smiles and says, “These other people, they’re just about the money.”
Leon starts telling me stories and there are a lot of them. He takes me with him on his life’s trails as he traces his index finger along a map from Italy to New York to Napa Valley and finally to San Diego. He tells me he was learning his winemaking skills in areas that weren’t known for their wines until after he had already left. “You know,” Leon’s saying, “I’m not going to be around forever. You’re going to have to tell this winery’s stories.”
“Oh stop it,” I say.
“No, it’s true.”
Little did I know these were words of a dying man. On Thursday, January 22, 2009, Leon Santoro the award winning winemaker at Orfila Winery died at the age of 58 while awaiting a lung transplant. I was shocked, as most people that did business with him were.
“You know we all went back to Italy last summer,” his brother Paul Santoro is telling me after Leon’s funeral at the table where they have pictures of Leon and Paul and their family in Italy. “Our dad died just one month before on the same day, “he continues. “Leon was still doing business with his Blackberry in the hospital.”
“You’ve had a lot of losses,” I say. “I’m sorry.”
I tried not to cry when the contemporary singers at Grace Lutheran Church sang Amazing Grace, but my efforts didn’t work. I wasn’t the only one there with tears in my eyes. Leon affected a lot of lives with his big heart. The church had to set up folding chairs in the back of the chapel to seat all the people that were there for him. There were people from his son’s soccer team, from the church and the wine community.
Leon leaves behind a wife, and a young son and daughter. He also leaves behind a huge hole in the San Diego winemaking scene.
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