Mixing it up in the Wine World with Blends

by Frank Mangio

A work of art is the rich mixture of the experiences of the artist producing a exclusive work for the world to judge. A blended wine, when the winemaker brings together finished wines from several varietals that could be from several vineyards and several vintages, ranks right up there with an artist’s masterpiece. The creation can be more than the sum of the parts.

The idea of a multi-vineyard blend acknowledges that vineyards are living families and their results year in and year out can vary dramatically. Consistency is important, so the winemaker tries to achieve an estate style to the blend.

The historic, traditional guide for blenders is the Bordeaux model. This district in France long ago developed production methods that married the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc grapes from the finest vineyard sites, with aging in small oak barrels.

Wineries were classified by the government as premier “first growth” or “grand cru” wines, and what evolved was a model for the world’s wineries who wished to venture into blended wines. Other Bordeaux style grapes that may be used include: Malbec, Petite Verdot and Carmenere.

Fast forward to the Napa Valley in the late 70’s when rising wine star Robert Mondavi caught the attention of French Grand Cru star Baron Phillippe de Rothschild.

The two wine heavyweights combined their genius to create Opus One, the first big-brand blend in Napa Valley, with Cabernet Sauvignon from the legendary Oakville To Kalon Vineyard. To this day Opus One is viewed as a masterpiece in fine wine blending.

Others followed with their own creations, applying wine brush strokes to their own canvas, mixing combinations like Zinfandel, Cabernet, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Charbono and Malbec. This brilliantly constructed blend is called The Prisoner and is produced by winemaker Dave Phinney of Napa Valley’s Orin Swift. The 2010 is just out at $35.

Another important wine country for blends is Italy with “Super Tuscans.” These wines got their start in the 70’s when leading Italian winemakers created a new and exciting red wine, based on the Tuscan premier grape, Sangiovese. They added Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Merlot, Petite Verdot and occasionally Syrah.

From this inflection point came Antinori’s Tignanello and a host of other excellent, upscale blends. A personal favorite is Summus by Banfi of Montalcino. The Sangiovese base is exponentially flavored with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah for highest quality.

Lewis Cellars Introduces World-Class Blends

Lewis Cellars of Napa has been making Cabernet Sauvignon right up there with the best of them since Randy and Debbie Lewis began the family’s winery in 1992, later joined by their son Dennis in 1999.

A check of Wine Spectator’s Guide to California Cabernet shows very high scores for their three 2008 entries, with fruit from Calistoga, St Helena, Rutherford and Oak Knoll chosen for maximum flavor. But the big news are the blends, including Alec’s Blend and Syrah with big, spicy concentrated flavors. Dennis equates them to the rock bands Black Sabbath and Deep Purple for their inky, dark and powerful color.

Dennis Bell of Lewis Cellars in Napa Valley at an outing in Banf/Jasper National Park

You have to experience the 2007 Cuvee L with super concentrated black fruits and oak spices. It’s a blend of 96% Cabernet and a tiny but important 4% Cab Franc booster for a plush tasting touch. Just 225 cases were produced guaranteeing elite octane.

The Grand Del Mar Resort will be bringing Dennis Bell and Lewis Cellars to San Diego Thursday December 8 for a Wine Dinner at Addison and that big, bold Syrah will be the highlight wine. RSVP at 858-314-1988. Turn you audio up and get into the power of the web site: www.lewiscellars.com.

Wine Bytes

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas is pouring Pinot Noirs for Thanksgiving Fri. Nov. 11 from 6 to 8pm. $20. pp. Details at 760-479-2500.

Bacchus Wine Market in the Gaslamp District of downtown San Diego has a Ken Forrester South African Wine Event Fri. Nov. 11 from 4 to 8:30pm for $15. ea. 7 wines will be sampled. Learn more at 619-236-0005.

The Schlossadler International Wine Warehouse in Oceanside has its annual wine tasting party Sat. Nov. 12 from 2 to 5pm. Live music and food sampling along with tasting of their latest world wide releases. Charge is $30. ea. Call 800-371-9463.

The San Diego State University Wine Extension Courses feature a California Intensive, Mondays, Nov. 14 to 28 from 6-9pm. Wine Director and Advanced Sommelier Jesse Rodriguez teaches the history and traditions of California wines. Details at 619-594-6924.

A Beaujolais Nouveau Wine Dinner is planned for the St Regis Monarch Beach Resort in Dana Point Thurs. Nov. 19 from 6 to 11pm. A four course menu inspired by Lyon France is paired with the wines. Cost is $80. RSVP at 949-234-3405

Free the Grapes – Stop HR 5034

by Frank Mangio
The ghost of prohibition in this country is still alive and well. After history declared prohibition to be one of the worst laws America ever passed, another piece of pending federal legislation, restricting the wine industry, is being debated.

It is HR 5034, which would badly hurt smaller wineries that depend on wine clubs and internet sales, by effectively blocking interstate shipping. Wholesalers and distributors lobbied states to pass restrictive laws, but the courts struck down laws that were passed and progress was being made in unrestrictive interstate sales and shipping. Now, opponents of direct sales of alcoholic beverages are aiming at congress, again.

In Temecula Wine Country, South Coast Winery Resort and Spa owner Jim Carter, who ships wine to some 20 states, has taken an active role in informing the public about this attack on their freedom to choose, in a letter to his club members and in a recent article in a San Diego newspaper. “HR 5034 threatens your rights to receive and enjoy your favorite South Coast Winery wines in the comfort of your home,” he said. It is very important for small wineries, especially, to be able to have these wine clubs because it’s our best vehicle for dealing direct with the public. “

Opponents of the pending law see it as restricting competition by forcing consumers to only buy retail. Wholesalers and distributors are lobbying congress hard for passage, and the dollars are flowing to at least 50 of the lawmaker co-sponsors of 5034. Almost 75% of all wines that were shipped last fiscal year came from California wineries, so this state especially needs to contact their federal congressional representative and strongly condemn this most recent attempt to dry up the direct sales wine business and put a lot more people out of work.

Ponte Winery’s Smokehouse Grill Flavors its Menu
An innovative group of chefs have produced menu creations at Ponte Winery’s Smokehouse Grill that have turned heads in the Temecula Valley. And Chef Marlon Martinez says it’s the move to a rustic style menu focusing on Mediterranean flavors.

“We stay local and make sure the produce has been grown sustainable and organic,” he said. “Those menu items that need to be shipped in, we make sure they are in the kitchen in time for a same-day lunch.” Today he was serving a magnificent Pacific Roasted Halibut with mashed olive oil potatoes with a warm oyster mushroom vinaigrette, as shown in the photo. Ponte is well known for its Scallion Dip which they serve as their opener with bread. “It’s so popular we sell it by the jar,” he declared.

In addition to crushed scallion, the dip mix includes: champagne, vinegar and olive oil. Some customers like to pour it into their salad. It’s a very different flavor as most items are at Smokehouse Grill.

On the wine side, Tasting Room Manager Lauren Todd told me that Italian Reds sell best. I had a lovely 2007 Sangiovese that is wine club priced at $32.95. Their 2007 Super Tuscan also sells well at $32.95. Of course, it’s still summer and Ponte sells a ton of the 2009 Beverino, a black rasberry flavored sparkling and sweet red for $23.16.

This is a big winery by Temecula numbers, with about 300 acres of vineyards and gardens. The Tasting Room and Marketplace are open 10 to 5pm daily and are always full of guests. The Smokehouse Grill is open 11am to 5pm Monday through Thursday, 11am to 9pm on Friday and Saturday and Sundays from 10am to 6pm. From more, access www.pontewinery.com.

Wine Bytes
Bernardo Winery in Rancho Bernardo has its annual Grape Stomp Sat. Sept. 11 at 4pm. Italian food, wine, Roman Holiday music and dance and 2 tons of grapes to stomp. $65. pp. Tickets on sale at 858-487-1866.

PAON Restaurant and Wine Bar in Carlsbad offers a series of 3 fun informative wine classes, “Red World Tour” starting Tues. Sept. 14 from 6 to 8pm. $59. per class. 9 red wines per class will be tasted. Call 858-442-2749 for details.

San Diego State University has its fall semester classes on the Business of Wine, opening Tues. Sept. 14 and going to Tues. Oct. 12, 6 to 9pm. The Opener is Exploring Wine with Lisa Redwine, certified sommelier. For more information call 619-594-6924.

Hollywood on the Vine is the theme for the Temecula Valley International Film and Music Festival Wed. through Sun. Sept. 15 through 19 at various venues in Temecula. Mix among celebrities, film, and music executives. Films will be shown and workshops available. A black tie gala will be Sun. Sept. 19 as musician Kenny Loggins is honored. Call 951-699-5514 for information and tickets.

Blue Fire in La Costa Resort presents Jazz and KIFM Smooth Jazz Radio from 7 to 9pm on Thurs. Sept. 16. Free admission. Check it out at 800-854-5000.

Temecula Valley’s Wine & Culilnary Showcase, celebrating California Wine Month, is Fri. Sept. 17 from 5:30 to 9:30pm at Monte De Oro Winery. A winemaker roundtables starts it off, climaxed by a Walk-Around Tasting featuring nearly 30 local wineries and a dozen restaurants. Call 800-801-9463 for tickets. Cost is $65. ea.

Meritage Wine Market is hosting its annual Lobsterfest 2010 Sat. Sept. 25 from 6 to 9pm. This is an old fashioned lobster boil with fresh, live 2 pound Maine lobsters and a full New England menu. A lineup of 6 wines will be paired from a Brut reserve to a 2007 Miner Family Napa Red. $75. ea. Call 760-479-2500.

Wineries are on the Road Again

by Frank Mangio
Call it a sign of the times or more wineries than ever taking to the road to show and offer their wines, but the invitations are pouring in to attend well-orchestrated events spotlighting wine countries in California and elsewhere.

A few favorites came to Southern California in the last couple of weeks: Family Winemakers of California and the Napa Valley Vintners, showcased in San Diego, and the Howell Mountain Wine Tasting in Los Angeles.

Family Winemakers represents hundreds of small production wineries in California who pride themselves in seeking the highest quality out of their grapes. The association, led by Veronica Barclay, leads the group in keeping a level playing field for its members. “We recently were able to help defeat the proposed per-drink taxation that no doubt would have meant a price increase for most California wines,” she said.
Michael Riboli of Riboli Family Estates, pours his new releases at the Family Wine Event in Del Mar.

Some wines that I favored included: Riboli Family 2007 Petite Sirah, ZD and its 2007 Pinot Noir Carneros, O’Shaughnessy Estate’s 2006 Cabernet Blend, Tercero’s 2007 Granache and Tablas Creek with its 2007 Granache Paso Robles.

The day after Family Winemakers, we joined the Howell Mountain Wine Tasting at the largest car museum in the world, the Peterson Automotive Museum in Los Angeles. This appellation is at the northern heights of Napa Valley. All wineries are at 1,400 feet or higher. Cooler spring temperatures and hotter summers produce fruit that has a greater balance between sugar and acidity, achieving complex flavors. Some names to know include: Outpost with its 2007 Howell Mountain Zinfandel, Cakebread Cellars 2006 Dancing Bear Ranch Cabernet and Highlands 2005 Howell Mountain Cabernet.

Barry Waitte of Tamber Bey, left, shows Taste Of Wine Columnist Frank Mangio his latest Napa Valley 2007 Cabernet.

Just a few days ago, the Napa Valley Vintners came in to San Diego with over 125 wineries. The young and legendary were side by side declaring themselves still the champs with their world-beating Cabernets and other quality contenders.

Standouts included: Tamber Bey and its 2007 Yountville Cabernet, Whitehall Lane had a beautiful 2006 Merlot in a stylish new glass top, Darioush also had a 2006 Merlot that stood out ( could it be that Merlot is getting back its mojo?) and Staglin with its 2006 Rutherford Cabernet was drawing a big crowd.

Certainly I rank the Napa Valley and its 400 or so wineries, producing 4% of the wines in California but 34% of sales, still the most renowned in the golden state.

Wine Bytes
San Diego State University has a Dynamic Wine and Food pairing class Saturday Apr. 10, 9-4:30pm at the Wine and Culinary Center on Harbor Drive, San Diego. It’s part of their certification program. For up to date information call 619-594-6924.

Belle Marie Winery in Escondido is hosting a Healthy Wine and Food seminar Sat. Apr. 10, 2 – 4pm. It includes wines samples and recipes to take home. Cost is $25. Details and RSVP at 760-796-7557.

Café Merlot at the Bernardo Winery in Rancho Bernardo is celebrating a Grand Re-Opening Tues. Apr. 13 from 11-4pm. Free tastes of the current menu plus new samples with free Champagne and other beverages. Prizes, giveaways and raffles for free classes and wine dinners top the day. RSVP at 858-592-7785.

Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido has an Ecluse Wine Tasting Thurs. Apr. 15 from 5:30 – 7:30pm. It’s from the west side of Paso Robles featuring Rhone varietals. $10. in advance. $15. at the door. RSVP at 760-745-1200.

Rhythm and Vine, San Diego’s music, wine and food festival to benefit Boys and Girls Clubs is set for Sat. Apr. 17 at 6pm at Escondido’s Westfield North County Mall. $75. in advance, $100. at the door. Special VIP pricing. www.rhythmandvine.org.

Meet the Chefs of Del Mar is Sun. Apr. 18 from 1 - 4pm at the Hilton Del Mar. 15 different restaurants and their celebrity chefs participate to benefit Casa de Amparo. Fine wines and champagne included in the $125. ticket. VIP treatment for $185. Check it out at 760-754-5500 or visit www.casadeamparo.org.