Wineries are on the Road Again

by Frank Mangio
Call it a sign of the times or more wineries than ever taking to the road to show and offer their wines, but the invitations are pouring in to attend well-orchestrated events spotlighting wine countries in California and elsewhere.

A few favorites came to Southern California in the last couple of weeks: Family Winemakers of California and the Napa Valley Vintners, showcased in San Diego, and the Howell Mountain Wine Tasting in Los Angeles.

Family Winemakers represents hundreds of small production wineries in California who pride themselves in seeking the highest quality out of their grapes. The association, led by Veronica Barclay, leads the group in keeping a level playing field for its members. “We recently were able to help defeat the proposed per-drink taxation that no doubt would have meant a price increase for most California wines,” she said.
Michael Riboli of Riboli Family Estates, pours his new releases at the Family Wine Event in Del Mar.

Some wines that I favored included: Riboli Family 2007 Petite Sirah, ZD and its 2007 Pinot Noir Carneros, O’Shaughnessy Estate’s 2006 Cabernet Blend, Tercero’s 2007 Granache and Tablas Creek with its 2007 Granache Paso Robles.

The day after Family Winemakers, we joined the Howell Mountain Wine Tasting at the largest car museum in the world, the Peterson Automotive Museum in Los Angeles. This appellation is at the northern heights of Napa Valley. All wineries are at 1,400 feet or higher. Cooler spring temperatures and hotter summers produce fruit that has a greater balance between sugar and acidity, achieving complex flavors. Some names to know include: Outpost with its 2007 Howell Mountain Zinfandel, Cakebread Cellars 2006 Dancing Bear Ranch Cabernet and Highlands 2005 Howell Mountain Cabernet.

Barry Waitte of Tamber Bey, left, shows Taste Of Wine Columnist Frank Mangio his latest Napa Valley 2007 Cabernet.

Just a few days ago, the Napa Valley Vintners came in to San Diego with over 125 wineries. The young and legendary were side by side declaring themselves still the champs with their world-beating Cabernets and other quality contenders.

Standouts included: Tamber Bey and its 2007 Yountville Cabernet, Whitehall Lane had a beautiful 2006 Merlot in a stylish new glass top, Darioush also had a 2006 Merlot that stood out ( could it be that Merlot is getting back its mojo?) and Staglin with its 2006 Rutherford Cabernet was drawing a big crowd.

Certainly I rank the Napa Valley and its 400 or so wineries, producing 4% of the wines in California but 34% of sales, still the most renowned in the golden state.

Wine Bytes
San Diego State University has a Dynamic Wine and Food pairing class Saturday Apr. 10, 9-4:30pm at the Wine and Culinary Center on Harbor Drive, San Diego. It’s part of their certification program. For up to date information call 619-594-6924.

Belle Marie Winery in Escondido is hosting a Healthy Wine and Food seminar Sat. Apr. 10, 2 – 4pm. It includes wines samples and recipes to take home. Cost is $25. Details and RSVP at 760-796-7557.

Café Merlot at the Bernardo Winery in Rancho Bernardo is celebrating a Grand Re-Opening Tues. Apr. 13 from 11-4pm. Free tastes of the current menu plus new samples with free Champagne and other beverages. Prizes, giveaways and raffles for free classes and wine dinners top the day. RSVP at 858-592-7785.

Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido has an Ecluse Wine Tasting Thurs. Apr. 15 from 5:30 – 7:30pm. It’s from the west side of Paso Robles featuring Rhone varietals. $10. in advance. $15. at the door. RSVP at 760-745-1200.

Rhythm and Vine, San Diego’s music, wine and food festival to benefit Boys and Girls Clubs is set for Sat. Apr. 17 at 6pm at Escondido’s Westfield North County Mall. $75. in advance, $100. at the door. Special VIP pricing. www.rhythmandvine.org.

Meet the Chefs of Del Mar is Sun. Apr. 18 from 1 - 4pm at the Hilton Del Mar. 15 different restaurants and their celebrity chefs participate to benefit Casa de Amparo. Fine wines and champagne included in the $125. ticket. VIP treatment for $185. Check it out at 760-754-5500 or visit www.casadeamparo.org.

Bring in the New Year in Wine Country

by Frank Mangio
Temecula Valley’s Wine Country is a “Camelot” experience anytime, but when New Year’s Eve celebrating is right around the corner, the wineries that can orchestrate the event do an especially exciting production as the vineyards ring out the old year and bring in the new. Seasoned chefs prepare their best and the winemakers pair up each course to match the flavors, from appetizers to desserts. Themed entertainment captures the moment with fun, fun and more fun.

Let’s take a tour of Temecula wineries that are planning some festive New Years’ Eve parties to make your evening memorable. Thornton Winery has a Roaring 20’s New Year’s Eve Gala. Come in costume or evening wear as the fun starts at 7:30pm with a champagne toast and dancing to the live band “Faultline.” Cuisine includes Lobster Napeleon and Tournedos of Beef. Wines include Brut Reserve, Viognier, Merlot and Zinfandel. $125. each. RSVP at 951-699-0099.

South Coast Winery Resort & Spa has the Spirit of Carnivale. Rio music and merriment abound with great food and wines in an array of venues throughout the winery. Pricing averages $209 per person. Phone 951-587-9463.

Colorful celebrations and gourmet dinners paired with top quality local wines make up the New Years Eve attractions in Temecula Wine Country.

Wiens Family Cellars is presenting a Vintage Hollywood Soiree, celebrating the golden age of Hollywood. Amazing food, wine and high energy music and dancing. “Old Hollywood glamour” attire is encouraged. $100. each, with an RSVP by calling 951-694-9892.

Wilson Creek Winery has a Mardi Gras Celebration with masks and beads provided by the winery. 4 course New Orleans style gourmet dinner featuring Filet Mignon. Dance to the sounds of Audiocast. Ticket price is $160. each. RSVP at 951-699-WINE.

Keyways Winery turns the clock ahead for a New Year’s celebration, New York time. This event goes from 5:30 to 9:30pm with unique “family style” food service. Entertainment with comedian Ron Ruhman and dancing to Joey P and the Hats. Tickets start at $95. each. RSVP at 951-302-7888. If you want a lift to one of these events, call Going Grape Transportation Service, at 951-852-1923.

Raise that toast to the New Year with champagne and wine at the source - one of the many memorable events in Temecula Wine Country.

Is Merlot the Forgotten Red?
The Top 100 Wine Spectator wine selections are out and as we pointed out, some surprises were woven in, starting with the #1 selection: a 2005 Columbia Crest Cabernet Sauvignon. (if you are looking for that vintage, chances are you won’t find it. Try the 2006 which is available.)

Not one Merlot is listed in the 100 best. This is a varietal that was a household name recently. Two things happened that sunk the brand: too many vineyards growing inferior Merlot, chasing the bubbled market, and the near-fatal blow of a campy movie about saintly Pinot Noir wine, called Sideways. Some unkind remarks about Merlot came out of the movie, and sales dropped over 25%. Merlot still remains in the cellar.

At its best, Merlot is a soft, round and fruitful grape with origins in the Bordeaux area of France. Other appellations that do well are: Washington State, Napa and Sonoma Valleys, Chile and Italy.

In Escondido, the Orfila Winery has established a reputation for its “Futures” where customers come from many parts of the country for a November event and the opportunity to purchase the following year’s Merlot release. I tasted the 2007 “futures” wine and I feel it has more going for it, but ’06 is what you will find on most shelves and that is enough to please. Orfila’s Ambassador’s Estate Reserve Merlot is as good as it gets with a price of $28.

Merlot is quirky in that it tastes more refined at cellar temperatures of 55 to 60 degrees than at room temperature, and most are best without aging. Up in Washington State, try the St. Michelle Indian Wells 2005. It sells at retail for about $14. and is a great value at that price.

Wine Bytes
 Il Fornaio in Del Mar has kicked off its last of a series of “Festa Regionale” Wine and Food Pairing events. This time it’s Sicily, now through Sun. Dec. 20. Roberto Gerbino, from Catania, prepares the local Sicilian cuisine, paired with such wines as Nero d’Avola and Scurati Bianco. Call 858-755-8876 for details.

 Wine Styles in Encinitas has a six-pack wine tasting from 10 choices on Sat. Dec. 19 from 1 to 7pm. The tasting is FREE with a any wine purchase or $10. without purchase. Paninis and 4 cheese plates available. For more, phone 760-633-0057.

 Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido presents the “Year’s Best Wine Tasting” Sat. Dec. 19, 3 to 6pm. Bubblies, big reds and dessert wines. $15. pre-sale, $20. at the door. Call 760-745-1200.

 Belle Marie Winery in Escondido has a “pre-release” party Sun. Dec. 27 from 2 to 4pm. Preview their finest just-bottled wines, including 6 new reds. Admission is FREE. Open house format. Get more info at 760-796-7557.

Darioush Delights at Firefly

Article and story by Frank Mangio

The latest creation at Firefly Grill and Wine Bar in Encinitas was a masterpiece of fine dining and premium wine pairing with Darioush Winery and Vineyard of Napa Valley. I applaud owner Jim Barrasso and Executive Chef Aaron Daily for their wine- first policy.

The two, in planning a paired menu, spend an extraordinary amount of time thoroughly examining the properties of each wine selection. Then they carefully craft a menu that will exalt each wine selection, enabling the guests to understand the capabilities of the wines chosen.

On the evening of the Darioush event, a spiced date leg of lamb with roasted eggplant, lentils and mint were the compliment to the Darioush 2005 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is considered best of breed at this renowned estate on the Silverado Trail in Napa. It is a subtle blend of 85% Cab, 10% Merlot and a hint of Petite Verdot and Malbec.

Ryan Norton from the winery also brought along a 2007 Signature Viognier from Darioush which paired to perfection with the passed around appetizers. “This is a California twist to a Rhone Valley French grape with tropical notes, lush and balanced acidity,” he said. “Red wine lovers go for this white with its complexity and ability to fit in with a lot of menu selections.”
Darioush is owned by Darioush Khaledi who comes from the cradle of wines, the middle east. Other wines that impressed included: a 2006 Signature Chardonnay.

Ryan Norton of Darioush, owner Jim Barrasso of Firefly and executive chef Aaron Daily at the Darioush Wine Dinner

Caravan 2005 Shiraz and a Signature 2005 Merlot. Darioush is the kind of winery you can get close to. Small and dedicated to the highest standards, it embraces the passion of Napa Valley. Learn more by accessing www.darioush.com.

The next Firefly wine event will be the Foxen Vineyards event on Wednesday March 4 at 6:30pm. Jim and Aaron have released the menu and the main course will be a plum and red wine braised short rib, complimenting a Foxen “Range 30 West” blend.

Jim also presides over occasional chef’s cooking classes and on Monday March 3rd at 6pm, he will teach at Kitchen Witch in Encinitas. Proper food and wine pairing will highlight the evening. Cost is $59. Call for details or check out the site: 760-635-1066 or www.fireflygrillandbar.com.

Giant Wines from the Woods of Washington
Up in the great northwest, the wines keep getting better. Washington is the 2nd largest appellation in the nation with over 30,000 acres and 500 wineries, though far less than #1, California. Most all grapes are grown in Eastern Washington, many miles from important destination wineries near Seattle like Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest. In places like Walla Walla, Yakima and the Columbia Valley, the sun shines 17 hours a day, producing a short but intense growing season. The principle grapes are: Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.

I have always liked Washington’s Cabs, blends and Merlots, kings of the red wine world. But let me call your attention to the big, bold Syrahs coming out of the state. The 2,830 acres devoted to this Rhone grape is in the middle of the state’s acreage allocation, but it has increased substantially. Washington Syrahs are big, bold and adventurous with an intense blueberry flavor. You get a big bang for the buck with most Washington Syrahs, but I would caution against too much alcohol in some, so check the label. Anything over 15% I would pass on. Some favorites include Dunham Cellars 2004, L’Ecole 2005, DiStefano 2005, Cayuse 2005. For more, search www.washingtonwine.org.

Wine Bytes
The laugh hit “Joey & Maria’s Comedy Italian Wedding” will come to Wilson Creek Winery in Temecula Sat. March 7. Doors open at 6pm and proceeds will benefit an area non profit. Champagne reception, auction and Italian dinner included. Tickets are $80. pp. Audience participation encouraged! Visit www.wilsoncreekwinery.com. Or call 951-699-WINE.

North County Wine Company in San Marcos presents Great Cabernet at its tasting on Fri. Feb. 27th from 5 to 8pm. Includes Simi, Cedar Knolls and Cakebread. $25. ea. Call 760-744-2119.

Holiday Wine Cellars in Escondido brings in Tricia Record of Levendi Winery of Napa Valley to host a Levendi tasting Thurs. March 5 from 5:30 to 7:30pm. Cost is $15. pp. Call 760-745-1200 for more.

Loews Coronado has its first “Farmers, Foragers and Fishermen” wine dinner on Thurs. March 5 at Mistral Restaurant. Eric Brandt of Brandt Beef will appear and speak about the natural beef process. Hours are 7 to 9pm with a cost of $48. Call Michael Graichen at 619-424-4000 ext 4000 for RSVP’s.

Bernardo Winery a Legacy in Motion

Something old can also be something new in the hands of the right people. A walk through the Bernardo Winery proves that. This 119 year old winery takes a little doing to find, but once reached, speaks volumes about the handcrafted artistry of the Rizzo family who established a tradition of winemaking under the discipline of the original Bernardo Winery family member Vincent, who purchased the land, equipment and vines in 1927. Then, the valley was covered with vineyards and not a town was in sight, the closest being Escondido. The winery became a major wine and olive oil supplier to San Diego County.

Ross Rizzo took the winery over from his father in 1962 and until his recent passing, turned it into the fascinating destination that it is today. Much of the land became too valuable for winery use, so most of the grapes are imported from such regions as Paso Robles, Rancho Cucamonga and elsewhere in San Diego County.

The legacy of Bernardo Winery and its rustic environment is everywhere the visitor turns. Gnarly old oaks, venerable old equipment that passed the test of time, village shops that still display and sell collectibles from the past, and of course a courtyard gathering place and tasting room that echoes the essence of European relaxation.

A new era has begun at Bernardo Winery as Ross’s son Rossi now runs the winery with a vision of restoring the greatness of this place with old world robust varietals, many from southern Italy. New energy and ideas abound from the new owners of the restaurant, Café Merlot. Toni and Rick Kraft, with a talented culinary team, have crafted a quality of cuisine that compares with the finest dining anywhere in San Diego. Custom corporate and special occasion catering has blossomed and enhanced the Café Merlot experience in the Vineyard room, outside in the patio or on the greens.

The wines offered on the restaurant menu reflect the California style, with names like J.Lohr, Cinnabar and Dry Creek, as well as their signature Bernardo Winery Private Reserve Petite Sirah. Events include concerts and “La Technique” Cooking Classes with the next one scheduled for Tuesday August 26 from 5:30 to 8:30pm. Cost is $50. pp.

At Bernardo Winery, it’s all about a historic legacy, but at the same time, a work in progress with the talent of a new team and a new future. See more at www.bernardowinery.com or call at 858-592-7785.

More Restaurant Awards of Excellence
Last week’s list of Wine Spectator area Awards of Excellence was short on space to list all, so here are more deserving locations that have superior wine lists and pairings with their menu offerings: Le Fountainbleau at the Westgate, Dussini Mediterranean Bistro, Oceanaire Seafood Room & Osetra the Fish House in San Diego; The Marine Room & George’s at the Cove La Jolla; Pacifica, Paradise Grille and Sbicca’s Del Mar. SALUTE!