The Big Bold Wines of Sonoma (Continued)

by Frank Mangio
In my last column, we opened the wine book on the big, stately and beautiful wine country of Sonoma and stretched our legs at Jordan Winery, the 1,200 acre Bordeaux style winery and vineyard just north of Healdsburg.  This week we’ll make a few more stops.

I stood and soaked in the scene in the middle of the Town Plaza of Healdsburg, a small village of wine bars, tasting rooms and restaurants that presented the epitome of farm-to-table dining from the nearby countryside.  From my vantage point I counted 22 such establishments within just a few blocks.  The newest and most fascinating was PARTAKE by KJ, an exploration of wine and food at the table, along with signature Kendall- Jackson wine selections, matched up with signature plates from their local farms.

Diners are treated to an introductory “blind tasting” in a black glass and asked to identify the mystery varietal. The debate rages on as clues come to the rescue from the wait help.

The hottest new restaurant in Sonoma is PARTAKE by KJ.

The basis of PARTAKE is the extraordinary four-season garden just outside the Kendall-Jackson Wine Center, some 10 miles south of Healdsburg, off the 101.  Founder Jess Jackson was a farmer in the midwest and always considered his vineyards as farmland.  This garden is now a kind of sensory laboratory as well as provider of fresh vegetables and fruits.  Guests that experience wine tasting can match up what they taste to what they smell and taste in the garden.  From heirloom tomatoes to a wide range of herbs and fruits, plantings come from all over the world.

Jim Cutcher is the Certified Wine Educator at Kendall-Jackson and loves to take guests through the gardens and KJ model vines that have sample varietals from each of the major wines of the world.

“We have 13,000 acres under vine on 37,000 total acres, in 28 different appellations, from Mendocino to Santa Barbara,” he said.  “We believe in wines that can be enjoyed right away. We have been making Kendall-Jackson wines since 1982 along the coastal areas.

Kendall-Jackson Certified Wine Educator, Jim Cutcher, examines a Chardonnay leaf in the Wine Sensory Gardens.

Our #1 seller is Vintners Reserve Chardonnay.  It’s also the #1 Chardonnay seller nationwide,” he declared. “We don’t orchestrate our Chardonnay.  It’s all barreled in stainless steel with no malolactic fermentation, for a simple natural wine flavor,” he added.

North on the 101, past Healdsburg and just before Geyserville, is the festive, colorful Francis Ford Coppola Winery.  Purchased by the movie director in 2006, Coppola liked it for its wine production facilities and its full-service restaurant.  He would bottle his premium wines from Napa Valley, and  his budget wines from Sonoma.  He converted the restaurant into RUSTIC, a family style Italian restaurant full of his family’s favorite recipes.  Then, the big idea came.  He would take out the fountains and grassy entrance and place a day-time resort, with a huge pool, cabanas, kids play area and bocce ball courts, to add to the wine sales, movie memorabilia and tasting rooms.

The day I visited, the reserved areas and cabanas were sold out for the season.  The Coppola “Diamond Collection” is his biggest seller, with 80% of sales.  If you enjoy Italian food, try the Rigatoni and Meatballs with Spinach.  It’s  “just like mama made. “

Other Sonoma wineries I would recommend are:  Ferrari-Carano, Pedroncelli, Stonestreet, La Crema, Murphy-Goode, Silver Oak, Carol Shelton, Chateau St. Jean and St. Francis.  For more on Sonoma and its 370 wineries, visit www.sonomawinegrape.org.

Wine Bytes
Several new wine bars and restaurants have now opened at San Diego Airport’s Lindbergh Field.  When completed it will have some 87 restaurants and other retail shops.

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas is having a “Napa vs. Sonoma” wine tasting Fri. July 12 from 6 to 8pm.  More info at 760-479-2500.

The University of San Diego is producing a Vintners Dinner Sat. July 13 from 6 to 9pm.  Cost is $150. pp. 4 course dinner with wine pairings. Seminars on winemaking, includes Charles Krug, Whitehall Lane and St. Supery.  Call 619-260-4819.

Tastings on the Terrace at Addison the Grand Del Mar include Fri. July 19 from 5:30 to 7:30pm, when Italian wines will be poured.  Flight of 3 for $25. ea.  At Amaya, a Mouton Noir Wine Dinner is being presented same night at 5:30pm.  Meet the winemaker.  $78. pp.  RSVP at 858-314-1996.

A benefit for the Emilio Nares Foundation is happening Sun. July 21 at the Indigo Salon and Spa in Hillcrest, from 2 to 5pm.  Enjoy great wines and bites and silent auction. Donations of any amount to enter.  Details at 877-507-7788.

Touring in Sonoma Wine Country

by Frank Mangio

Big, stately and beautiful are the first descriptors that come to mind when recalling my trip to Sonoma Wine Country recently.  So big, it cannot be limited to one column. It demands a two part recollection. After all, Sonoma is the birthplace of California wine, with the first winegrapes planted in Fort Ross about 1812.  The oldest premium winery , Buena Vista, was founded in 1857. Founding families dominate the landscape, as Sonoma County boasts 370 wineries with  some 1,800 winegrape growers settled in 13 diverse AVA’s, or appellations.

It feels like a country disguised as a county…a little bit of Italy, a little bit of France, but clearly California coastal in quality.

The grand French chateau of Jordan Wine Estate in the Alexander Valley of Sonoma  includes two lakes on 1,200 acres.

It was a quick direct air trip from San Diego to Santa Rosa, a bustling town of 167,000. A few minutes north of Healdsburg, the prettiest town in Sonoma, and just east of Highway 101, is the Jordan Wine Estate, in the Alexander Valley making only high quality Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

Founded in 1972 by Tom and Sally Jordan, well-traveled lovers of fine French wine and cusine, whose dream it was to make Jordan a titan of world-class Cabernet, one that was elegant and could be enjoyed immediately.  The wines would be fruit--forward with balanced, silky tannins.

The inaugural 1976 vintage was nurtured by winemaker Rob Davis, who makes Jordan wines to this day.  The latest Cab vintage is the 2009 ($53.) , a Top Ten Taste pick of mine in last week’s column, was described by Davis as “a great symphony, hitting all the right notes. We had dreamed about making a wine like the 2009 for so long; we are ecstatic.”

The Alexander Valley was a prescient selection for Jordan.  Located at the Northern end of Sonoma County, with The Russian River winding up its west side and Mayacamas Mountains on the eastern borders.  While the warm locations are best for Bordeaux grapes like Cabernet and Chardonnay, its gentle inland slopes, or “cotes” as they’re called in France, are reminiscent of Burgundy.

Although Jordan has 1,200 acres on the property, from valley to lakes, to peaks, there are vast areas of trees, rocks and vistas; lots of room to stretch out and enjoy the over 1,000 acres of land, navigable  by vehicle and explorable.  There are 110 acres of grapevines and 18 acres of olive trees, gardens and pasture land.

Since 2005, Tom and Sally Jordan’s son, John Jordan, left the world of law and became the present owner of Jordan. He has taken Jordan to more enhanced fruit sourcing, searching the Sonoma district for the best grapes possible.

The Jordan wine estate has introduced visitor experiences that include touring, wine and food tasting from their farm, at the most beautiful locations on the property.

“Jordan wines have always remained true to what the Bordeaux style is meant to be… balanced, food-friendly, happy to be a part of the pleasures of the table, and not to dominate,” Jordan explained.  Going forward, he is continuing to constantly improve all facets of wine and food quality. “We have a resident culinary staff for hospitality programs and believe that food and wine go together.  Wine is not a stand-alone beverage, so we work on Jordan as a sense of place with our fresh-ingredient garden,” Jordan pointed out.

Jordan makes 100,000 cases, including 1/3 Chardonnay and 2/3 Cabernet.  Most are consumed in restaurants, resorts, cruise lines and direct sales.

Jordan’s new Estate Tour, with panoramic views of Napa Valley and Sonoma is offered by appointment Thursdays through Mondays beginning September 5th and priced at $120. per person.  Reservations are now being taken. For questions call 800-654-1213.  For more, visit www.jordanwinery.com.

Next week, we’ll cover the rest of Sonoma and select wineries.

Wine Bytes
Falkner Winery in Temecula is celebrating its 13th Anniversary Fri. July 5th to Sun. July 7th.  Free jazz performances Sat. and Sun. with wine tours, raffles drawings, major wine discounts, and outdoor BBQs.  Details at 951-676-8231 x1.

Il Fornaio in Del Mar has a Festa Regionale featuring the cooking and wines of Sicily now through July 14th.  Special 3 course tasting menu for $30.99 and a wine flight for $13.99.  RSVP at 1-888-ITALIAN.

The 21st Annual Bastille Day Benefit Event is Sat. July 13th from 4 to 8pm at the Fairbanks Ranch Clubhouse in Rancho Santa Fe.  It’s a day of food and wine pairings, including Silver Oak, Duckhorn, Ferrari-Carano and more.  Silent Auction.  $150. pp.  RSVP at 619-546-5390.

Solare Ristorante at Liberty Station in Pt. Loma has a pizza cooking class Sat. July 13 at 10:30am.  Starts from making the dough through each step.  Details at 619-270-9670.

Jazz & Pop Music with Supper at Anthology

by Frank Mangio

The downtown San Diego night time scene grew up exponentially when real estate developer Howard Berkson, a Chicago businessman, who grew up with first class dinner show operations, decided to open Anthology recently.

“There’s a demographic niche in this town that wants a first class experience in food, wine, and music,” he said. “That’s what we provide with our renowned chef, Todd Allison and his farm-fresh menu, and three levels of unobstructed views of top musical acts, 6 nights a week with two shows nightly.”

The digital sound system is among the best I have heard. There are two bars and lounges for those who want just a cocktail or glass of wine. 300 seats for dining and many intimate booths, provide for the comfort of diners.

Warren Phelps manages the Anthology Supper Club and Todd Allison is Executive Chef

From unplugged solos to large bands, there is always an exciting array of local and national artists, playing blues, jazz, pop, classic rock and Latin.

On the night I was reviewing Anthology, their band featured vocalist Rebecca Jade, a sultry, smooth Jazz singer who’s emotional style and resume of San Diego appearances commands attention. Her debut CD is now out. Check it out at www.thejadeelement.com.

The menu of food and wines is second to none downtown. This night, Chef chose a grilled lamb chop as the appetizer. It was supported by roasted cauliflower, herbed spaetzle and a tzatziki sauce. An asian pear and wild arugula salad followed, laced with blue cheese, cranberry and pistachio pesto.

Anthology’s sultry “house” vocalist is Rebecca Jade, a smooth companion for dinner club patrons.

The main course was a roasted garlic-crusted tenderloin of beef, with grilled new potatoes, asparagus tips, with a black pepper bordelaise sauce. I left it up to the table manager for a wine choice and he came up with a 2007 Leal Meritage, perfectly balanced with 60% Cabernet, 23% Merlot, 11% Cab Franc and 6% Malbec.($50.)

Big time talent loves to play this intimate venue , so reminiscent of the 40’s and 50’s supper club scene in L.A., New York and Chicago.

The 13,000 square foot restaurant club extends vertically to three levels, including a mezzanine and VIP Dining Room. On the upper level there are indoor/outdoor spaces including a Fireside Lounge, outdoor Bayside Balcony and a private dining room.

Reservations are strongly recommended. Anthology is closed on Monday and open Tuesday through Sunday from 5:30pm. Find out more at 619-595-0300 or visit www.AnthologySD.com.

Wine Bytes

§ San Diego Wine Company is planning a German Wine Tasting Sat. Aug. 27 from 11 to 4:30pm. $10. fee. Call 858-586-WINE.

§ Grape Stomp 2011 at Orfila Winery in Escondido is Sat. Aug. 27 from 4 to 8pm. $85. Admission includes wine tasting with appetizers, dinner buffet, grape stomping, music by Java Sounds, tractor rides and more. For details, call 760-738-6500 x22.

§ Bacchus Wine Bar and Market in the Gaslamp San Diego has their Anniversary Party Sat Aug. 27 from 5 to 9pm. Prepaid RSVP for $20. Call 619-236-0005.

§ Gen 7 Wines is having a new release party at Tommy V’s in Del Mar, Sun. Aug 28 from 2 to 5pm. Wine, food and fun are promised from winemaker and owner Tim Bacino. $50. pp. RSVP to theclub@gen7wines.com.

§ The Vault: Contemporary Art and Fine Wine is the name of a special event at the Hilton Bayfront Hotel downtown San Diego Sat Sept 3. from 6 to 8pm. Over 30 wineries are promised, with over 500 works of art from around the world. Cost is $25. ea., $35. at the door. For more, call 619-312-1212 or www.artsandiego2011.eventbrite.com.

§ The 2011 Sonoma Wine Country Weekend is Sept. 2 to 4. Winemaker lunches, dinners and BBQ throughout. Main event is a Taste of Sonoma on Sat. Sept. 3 from 11 to 4pm at McMurray Ranch in Healdsburg. All details 800-939-7666. Or check out www.sonomawinecountryweekend.com.