Jazz & Pop Music with Supper at Anthology

by Frank Mangio

The downtown San Diego night time scene grew up exponentially when real estate developer Howard Berkson, a Chicago businessman, who grew up with first class dinner show operations, decided to open Anthology recently.

“There’s a demographic niche in this town that wants a first class experience in food, wine, and music,” he said. “That’s what we provide with our renowned chef, Todd Allison and his farm-fresh menu, and three levels of unobstructed views of top musical acts, 6 nights a week with two shows nightly.”

The digital sound system is among the best I have heard. There are two bars and lounges for those who want just a cocktail or glass of wine. 300 seats for dining and many intimate booths, provide for the comfort of diners.

Warren Phelps manages the Anthology Supper Club and Todd Allison is Executive Chef

From unplugged solos to large bands, there is always an exciting array of local and national artists, playing blues, jazz, pop, classic rock and Latin.

On the night I was reviewing Anthology, their band featured vocalist Rebecca Jade, a sultry, smooth Jazz singer who’s emotional style and resume of San Diego appearances commands attention. Her debut CD is now out. Check it out at www.thejadeelement.com.

The menu of food and wines is second to none downtown. This night, Chef chose a grilled lamb chop as the appetizer. It was supported by roasted cauliflower, herbed spaetzle and a tzatziki sauce. An asian pear and wild arugula salad followed, laced with blue cheese, cranberry and pistachio pesto.

Anthology’s sultry “house” vocalist is Rebecca Jade, a smooth companion for dinner club patrons.

The main course was a roasted garlic-crusted tenderloin of beef, with grilled new potatoes, asparagus tips, with a black pepper bordelaise sauce. I left it up to the table manager for a wine choice and he came up with a 2007 Leal Meritage, perfectly balanced with 60% Cabernet, 23% Merlot, 11% Cab Franc and 6% Malbec.($50.)

Big time talent loves to play this intimate venue , so reminiscent of the 40’s and 50’s supper club scene in L.A., New York and Chicago.

The 13,000 square foot restaurant club extends vertically to three levels, including a mezzanine and VIP Dining Room. On the upper level there are indoor/outdoor spaces including a Fireside Lounge, outdoor Bayside Balcony and a private dining room.

Reservations are strongly recommended. Anthology is closed on Monday and open Tuesday through Sunday from 5:30pm. Find out more at 619-595-0300 or visit www.AnthologySD.com.

Wine Bytes

§ San Diego Wine Company is planning a German Wine Tasting Sat. Aug. 27 from 11 to 4:30pm. $10. fee. Call 858-586-WINE.

§ Grape Stomp 2011 at Orfila Winery in Escondido is Sat. Aug. 27 from 4 to 8pm. $85. Admission includes wine tasting with appetizers, dinner buffet, grape stomping, music by Java Sounds, tractor rides and more. For details, call 760-738-6500 x22.

§ Bacchus Wine Bar and Market in the Gaslamp San Diego has their Anniversary Party Sat Aug. 27 from 5 to 9pm. Prepaid RSVP for $20. Call 619-236-0005.

§ Gen 7 Wines is having a new release party at Tommy V’s in Del Mar, Sun. Aug 28 from 2 to 5pm. Wine, food and fun are promised from winemaker and owner Tim Bacino. $50. pp. RSVP to theclub@gen7wines.com.

§ The Vault: Contemporary Art and Fine Wine is the name of a special event at the Hilton Bayfront Hotel downtown San Diego Sat Sept 3. from 6 to 8pm. Over 30 wineries are promised, with over 500 works of art from around the world. Cost is $25. ea., $35. at the door. For more, call 619-312-1212 or www.artsandiego2011.eventbrite.com.

§ The 2011 Sonoma Wine Country Weekend is Sept. 2 to 4. Winemaker lunches, dinners and BBQ throughout. Main event is a Taste of Sonoma on Sat. Sept. 3 from 11 to 4pm at McMurray Ranch in Healdsburg. All details 800-939-7666. Or check out www.sonomawinecountryweekend.com.

Malbec: From Bit Player to Star

by Frank Mangio

The Malbec grape reminds me of a young Clint Eastwood when the actor tried to break into Hollywood as an action star but got lost in the crowded field of cinematic romantic male stars of the era. Instead of struggling for his place in the tinsel-town sun, he went to Italy where an American leading man could stand out and be counted, and made a series of “spaghetti westerns.” He became the movie star he always wanted to be by leaving his home and making his mark elsewhere.

Here’s the link between Eastwood and Malbec. This luscious grape is from Bordeaux , France . There it was just a bit player in a cast of heavyweights like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Petite Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc and many more. Winemakers who chose to develop vineyards in the new world of Argentina’s only productive appellation of Mendoza, were on the look-out for something that would put them on the map, and it was this minor French player, Malbec. The grape loves the higher attitudes of the nearby Andes.

Most vineyards are at 2,500 feet and above, with January temperatures at 75 degrees (due to opposite seasons.) This condition unlocks the extraordinary flavor.

The explosion of Malbec in the U.S. can be compared to the fast ascension of Merlot in the 90’s. Argentina is now the 4th largest importer of wines to America by volume, just behind Italy , France and Australia , rising 800% since 2000. This is a $10. to $20. bottle of wine… a bargain!

Nicolas Catena and daughter Laura produce Catena Wines, considered a top Malbec in Mendoza, Argentina.

The 2006 Catena Zapata Malbec is a product of the Catena family of Mendoza, a richly endowed region in Argentina , best suited for Malbec.

Very little rain falls on their vineyards, but when it does, it is close to the critical harvest from January to April. The soil is alluvial, or highly mineralized. The high temperatures at this altitude make for softer tannins. High alcohol is an issue for the Catenas, so they ferment their wines in outside, open tanks so that the morning air forces out and dilutes the alcohol content down to the desired14%.

“We are dedicated to unlocking the secrets of our land,” said Nicolas Catena, the present owner. His forefather, Nicola Catena, sailed from Italy to Argentina in 1898, to find the promised land in Mendoza . He planted his first Malbec in 1902, believing that this bit player French blending grape could thrive in the new world environment. Nicolas, a chemist and University of California graduate, with experience in the Napa Valley, took control of the vineyards in the 1980’s and turned the operation from bulk producer to fine wines, concentrating on Malbec and Chardonnay. He explained that “the only way we would make a leap in quality would be by pushing the limits of vine cultivation and taking risks.” Nicolas and daughter Laura have unlocked a Malbec that stands tall with the Andes and the Tango, as Argentina ’s gift to the world.

What to Do with Boring Wine

I never purposely look for a mediocre tasting wine, but as you and I know, they are out there and in the most unlikely wines. You can always buy a jug wine or “Two-Buck-You-Know-What” and know that it’s going to be just-picked grapes fermented in high alcohol. But at times, a wine that has the pedigree, turns out wrong.

The next time this happens to you, don’t dump it into the sink, use it to flavor food. We all know that for years, a kitchen cook could buy what was (and still is) known as “cooking wine,” a terrible brew of the worst grapes known to man. Resolve never to buy any of that again, but instead, keep that red or white wine that disappointed when you opened it, and use it to transform fish, pastas, soups, lamb, even desserts, into a wonderfully savory dish.

I have been observing an increasing number of restaurants using a wine ingredient as a sauce to raise the level of flavor in their creations, to the point where they are “calling out” what types of wine are added to the entrees. That is a true wine-food pairing. Add wine to taste in your next dinner and your creative juices will really flow.

Wine Bytes

§ Vino 100 in San Marcos presents Zinfandels from Around the World on Fri. Oct. 9 from 5 to 9pm . Cost is $15. pp. Details by calling 760-591-9113.

§ WineSellar and Brasserie in San Diego ’s Sorrento Valley is planning a Family-Style Italian Wine Tasting and Lunch Sat. Oct. 10 from 11:30 to 2pm . Lots of value wines are being released from Italy , so try six here for $18. plus $12.50 for optional lunch. Call 858-450-9557 for more.

§ The Prado Restaurant in Balboa Park San Diego, hosts the 10th annual Food & Wine Harvest Celebration Thurs. Oct. 15 from 5 to 9pm . Cooking demos from area chefs, local winemakers with tastings, rustic cheeses, chocolate and champagne as well as live music. Cost is $59.95 ea. Call 619-557-9441 x 203 for tickets.

§ San Diego State University College of Extended Studies offers Wine Making Behind the Scenes Sat. Oct. 17, 9 to 4:30pm at South Coast Winery Resort & Spa in Temecula. Learn the insights and secrets of making wines in the winery. Operational processes will be taught. Class fee is $195. For details, call 619-594-6924, or e mail rbeard@mail.sdsu.edu.

§ Paso Robles Wine Country celebrates its Harvest Wine Weekend Fri. Oct. 16 thru Sun. Oct. 18. Crush and harvest activities, grape stomping and barrel tasting from more than 130 wineries throughout Paso. For more information, visit www.pasowine.com.

Coppola Names Latest Winery Rosso & Bianco

by Frank Mangio

After over a year of silence on what he would call his newest acquisition in Geyserville, Sonoma, Francis Ford Coppola of “Godfather” fame finally broke his silence. He purchased his second winery (the first one is in Napa), formerly Chateau Souverain, and let it sit while he thought about it.

The new winery is now Rosso & Bianco. His grandfather from his Italian family back in New York used to make “Rosso y Bianco,” which means simply red and white wine. Coppola wanted to pay honor to his Italian ancestry, so he describes his latest winery as one that will “provide the theme of life with a happy Italian family, where I have provided my private collection of film and personal memorabilia for public enjoyment.” An Italian Pizzeria has been open, with beautiful views of the Alexander Valley, where diners can savor rustic dishes including Neapolitan style pizzas. Visit the website at www.rossobianco.com.

Coppola himself has named his recent favorite wines and none are from Napa or Sonoma. They are: a white from Romania, Feteasca Alba; three wines from Argentina: a Malbec, a Cabernet and a Torrentes; and finally a Southern Italian wine, a “Negromaro, which has a fruity, rich flavor. This wine is where my people come from,” he proclaimed.