Harvest On Howell Mountain

by Frank Mangio
In our last report on Napa Valley wines, most wineries were happy to see the progress of the fruit as it experienced “Veraison,” the changing of the leaves and grapes to a rich color, signaling the onset of harvest.  This latest blast of heat we are experiencing seals the deal, especially on Howell Mountain, the first AVA subappellation  in Napa Valley and an  impressive elevation for growing wine grapes beginning at 1,400 feet above the fog. This means warmer mornings and cooler afternoon breezes.   This is Cab Country, concentrated and structured.

Howell Mountain, the highest elevation in Napa Valley rises to 2,400 feet and is home to Cabernet, Merlot and Zinfandel. The Cakebread Dancing Bear Vineyard is shown.

TASTE OF WINE was struck by its elegant and timeless qualitieswith a Mountain Wine distinctive flavor , characterized by pepper and warm spices.  The grapes are small, tightly clustered and powerfully concentrated for intense fruit.  They develop thick skins that yield rich tannins. A closer look at the terroir reveals rich, red volcanic soils  with naturally superb iron, enriching the grapes in Howell’s 600 + acres planted.  Here are some names to know:

Robert Craig Winery
Robert and Lynn Craig have been producing distinctive Cabernets for over 20 years.  Their ’96
Cab brought fame when Wine Spectator called it the hot new winery. It’s been a top 50 Cab producer ever since.

  

The winemaker since 2008 at the 20 acre Robert Craig Winery on Howell Mountain is Stephen Tebb.

Be sure to taste their 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet with 85% Cab, 6% Petit Verdot, 7% Merlot, and 2% Malbec.  It recently bagged 96 points at Wine Advocate.  www.robertcraigwine.com.

Charles Krug Winery.  The Peter Mondavi Family has staked their reputation on the 9 acres planted to Cabernet on their 20 acre parcel and the accolades are pouring in on this ’07 Howell Mountain Rocky Ridge Vineyard Cab, their first release from their Howell Mountain Vineyard. www.charleskrug.com.

O’Shaughnessy Estate Winery.  Owner Betty O’Shaunessy began her winery in 1990 in Oakville and over the next few years more vineyards on Howell and Mt. Veeder.  Founding winemaker Sean Capiaux is still master winemker, creating world class Cabernet. with deep roots on the  hillside property.  A favorite is the 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet offering excellent structure and deep color.  www.oshaughnessy.com.

Betty O’Shaughnessy at harvest.

Duckhorn Vineyards.  Duckhorn has its headquarters winery in St. Helena on the floor of Napa Valley, but their vineyard that has the signature 2007 Cabernet is midway up Howell Mountain.  They have sourced cab here since 1989.  The current release has 68% Cab and  32% Merlot.  To further encourage complexity, this wine was bottle-aged one year longer than normal prior to release.  www.duckhorn.com.

Cakebread Cellars was founded in 1973 by Jack and Dolores Cakebread.  The current winemaker is Julianne Laks, only the 3rd winemaker in 35 years.  Their Cabernets are full-throttle wonderful.  Their Howell Mountain Dancing Bear ranch is a favorite, with most applause reserved for the 2007 with 22 months in French Oak. The mix is 80% Cab, 13% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc.  www.cakebread.com.

You can experience mountain wines from Howell Mountain at a Harvest Celebration in Napa Valley’s Yountville, Saturday November 3 from 1 to 4pm at the V Wine Cellar.  $35. pp. advance tickets for 17 wineries plus Chef’s tasting menu.  Call 707-965-2665 or visit www.howellmountain.org.

Wine Bytes
PAON in Carlsbad presents a Napa/Sonoma Tasting in the Tasting Bar, Thurs. Sept. 27 thru Wed. Oct. 3. Six one ounce glasses for $16. Check for names at 760-729-7377.

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas has Lobsterfest 2012 Sat. Sept. 29 from 6 to 9pm.  Advance tix required at $100. ea.  This is an old fashioned Maine Lobster Boil with all the trimmings with lots of wines.  Call now at 760-479-2500.

Ponte Winery in Temecula rolls out its Grape Stomp Sun. Sept. 30 from 4 to 9pm.  Cost is $95. for a Buffet Dinner, and Dance.  Stomps are team mate competition for prizes.  Call 877-314-WINE.

The RB Historical Society brings its 2nd annual wine tasting, music and food fest to Bernardo Winery, Sun. Sept. 30 from Noon to 4pm.  Four live bands will play. Beer and wine from area breweries and vineyards.  Tickets $20. ea. or at the door for $25.  Call 858-775-5788.