Harvest On Howell Mountain

by Frank Mangio
In our last report on Napa Valley wines, most wineries were happy to see the progress of the fruit as it experienced “Veraison,” the changing of the leaves and grapes to a rich color, signaling the onset of harvest.  This latest blast of heat we are experiencing seals the deal, especially on Howell Mountain, the first AVA subappellation  in Napa Valley and an  impressive elevation for growing wine grapes beginning at 1,400 feet above the fog. This means warmer mornings and cooler afternoon breezes.   This is Cab Country, concentrated and structured.

Howell Mountain, the highest elevation in Napa Valley rises to 2,400 feet and is home to Cabernet, Merlot and Zinfandel. The Cakebread Dancing Bear Vineyard is shown.

TASTE OF WINE was struck by its elegant and timeless qualitieswith a Mountain Wine distinctive flavor , characterized by pepper and warm spices.  The grapes are small, tightly clustered and powerfully concentrated for intense fruit.  They develop thick skins that yield rich tannins. A closer look at the terroir reveals rich, red volcanic soils  with naturally superb iron, enriching the grapes in Howell’s 600 + acres planted.  Here are some names to know:

Robert Craig Winery
Robert and Lynn Craig have been producing distinctive Cabernets for over 20 years.  Their ’96
Cab brought fame when Wine Spectator called it the hot new winery. It’s been a top 50 Cab producer ever since.

  

The winemaker since 2008 at the 20 acre Robert Craig Winery on Howell Mountain is Stephen Tebb.

Be sure to taste their 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet with 85% Cab, 6% Petit Verdot, 7% Merlot, and 2% Malbec.  It recently bagged 96 points at Wine Advocate.  www.robertcraigwine.com.

Charles Krug Winery.  The Peter Mondavi Family has staked their reputation on the 9 acres planted to Cabernet on their 20 acre parcel and the accolades are pouring in on this ’07 Howell Mountain Rocky Ridge Vineyard Cab, their first release from their Howell Mountain Vineyard. www.charleskrug.com.

O’Shaughnessy Estate Winery.  Owner Betty O’Shaunessy began her winery in 1990 in Oakville and over the next few years more vineyards on Howell and Mt. Veeder.  Founding winemaker Sean Capiaux is still master winemker, creating world class Cabernet. with deep roots on the  hillside property.  A favorite is the 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet offering excellent structure and deep color.  www.oshaughnessy.com.

Betty O’Shaughnessy at harvest.

Duckhorn Vineyards.  Duckhorn has its headquarters winery in St. Helena on the floor of Napa Valley, but their vineyard that has the signature 2007 Cabernet is midway up Howell Mountain.  They have sourced cab here since 1989.  The current release has 68% Cab and  32% Merlot.  To further encourage complexity, this wine was bottle-aged one year longer than normal prior to release.  www.duckhorn.com.

Cakebread Cellars was founded in 1973 by Jack and Dolores Cakebread.  The current winemaker is Julianne Laks, only the 3rd winemaker in 35 years.  Their Cabernets are full-throttle wonderful.  Their Howell Mountain Dancing Bear ranch is a favorite, with most applause reserved for the 2007 with 22 months in French Oak. The mix is 80% Cab, 13% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc.  www.cakebread.com.

You can experience mountain wines from Howell Mountain at a Harvest Celebration in Napa Valley’s Yountville, Saturday November 3 from 1 to 4pm at the V Wine Cellar.  $35. pp. advance tickets for 17 wineries plus Chef’s tasting menu.  Call 707-965-2665 or visit www.howellmountain.org.

Wine Bytes
PAON in Carlsbad presents a Napa/Sonoma Tasting in the Tasting Bar, Thurs. Sept. 27 thru Wed. Oct. 3. Six one ounce glasses for $16. Check for names at 760-729-7377.

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas has Lobsterfest 2012 Sat. Sept. 29 from 6 to 9pm.  Advance tix required at $100. ea.  This is an old fashioned Maine Lobster Boil with all the trimmings with lots of wines.  Call now at 760-479-2500.

Ponte Winery in Temecula rolls out its Grape Stomp Sun. Sept. 30 from 4 to 9pm.  Cost is $95. for a Buffet Dinner, and Dance.  Stomps are team mate competition for prizes.  Call 877-314-WINE.

The RB Historical Society brings its 2nd annual wine tasting, music and food fest to Bernardo Winery, Sun. Sept. 30 from Noon to 4pm.  Four live bands will play. Beer and wine from area breweries and vineyards.  Tickets $20. ea. or at the door for $25.  Call 858-775-5788.

Music and Wine Blend Well Together

by Frank Mangio
I have a special place in my wine columns for musicians who have made it in the mad world of rock n roll, then turned to what they thought was the more serene, relaxed life of making wine…until they made their first bottle and got way more excited. There is a meaningful bond that links these two dynamics together and the talent and passion that created pop music hits, can be applied to creating great wines.

Lee Rocker of the 80’s musical groupThe Stray Cats that sold over 10 million albums, has introduced his new wine called Rockabilly Red, a 100% 2008 vintage Syrah from Napa Valley.

An interview I had a few years ago with the legendary rocker Mick Fleetwood of Fleetwood Mac brought this home, when he embellished on Robert Mondavi’s priceless quotethat wine is like “Poetry in a Bottle.” Fleetwood’s take on the subject is that the creativity of the process of making wine and songs are no sure thing and in both, you have to hold your breath and hope the public accepts what you present, while you scream for acceptance.

The latest adventure of a pop musician bringing a new and exciting wine to market is Rockabilly Red,( $35.) created and owned by Lee Rocker of the 80’s Rockabilly band, The Stray Cats. The group scorched the charts with famous songs like “Rock This Town” and “Stray Cat Strut,” and despite several break-ups, Rocker still tours to this day.

Rocker collaborates on his Rockabilly Red with Kristian Story, the Napa Valley winemaker who creates hand-crafted, unfiltered big, bold wines from small lots that express individual character.  His location near St. Helena is considered the most intense fruit in the valley.  Rockabilly Red is barrel aged 24 months in new French Oak and is a well balanced, muscular 15.3% alcohol wine, mating up with BBQ Pork, Pizza and of course, Rock n Roll.

I caught up with Rocker in Temecula at Ponte Winery’s new Cellar Lounge and he had this to say about his new wine. “It was a blast working with Kristian.  You know, it’s a lot like Rock n Roll in a way.  The people who make wine and the people who make rock n roll have the passion and the love in what they do and hope that it shows in the end result.  The personalties are so similar.” Don Harbour of Golden  Crown Productions in Temecula handles marketing and has set up Artists Wine to handle orders for Rockabilly Red.

Lee Rocker will be headlining a special concert at Wiens Family Cellars in Temecula, Friday August 24th starting at 7pm.  Tickets are on sale for the event through Golden Crown Productions, with General Admission $45., VIP General Admission $95. and VIP Tables for 4 are $395. each. Access www.goldencrownproductions.com/buy-tickets/  or phone 888-276-4008.

Tolosa Wines Featured at Rossi’s San Marcos
Rossi’s Italian Restaurant in San Marcos doesn’t do many special wine dinners, but when they do, I pay attention. Owner Marshall Bryer finds little-known but high quality wineries, mainly in the Central Coast area of California and spotlights them, such as his latest find, Tolosa Winery.  Tolosa is sustainably farmed in the Edna Valley of San Luis Obispo. The cool ocean breezes and long summers define the vineyards. Rossi’s started out with a lovely Caesar Salad with Tolosa’s ’09 Chardonnay. ($25.) Natural Pear and Apple flavors dominate.

Marshall Bryer of Rossi’s in San Marcos recently presented Tolosa Wines at his Italian restaurant.

The other signature wine from Tolosa is Pinot Noir ($30.)  Between the two, they make up 80% of the estate vineyard.  Rossi’s selected Chicken Parmesan as a mate. The ’09 had solid quality and good production, according to winemaker Larry Brooks.  He likens each harvest to “dancing with a new partner that you know very little about, so you have to figure out their unique moves to get the best results.”  See more about Tolosa at www.tolosawinery.com.

Wine Bytes
San Diego Wine Company on Miramar Rd. is having a Taste of Oregon, Sat. Aug. 18 from 11 to 4pm.  Cost is $10. ea.  Call 858-586-9463.

Temecula Wine Country’s newest improvement is Callaway Vineyard and Winery.  See the new upper deck Sat. Aug. 18 at their Taste of Summer Seminar, from 10am to 12:30pm.  Learn about fermentation and the winemaking process.  Call 951-676-4001 for cost.

3rd Corner in Encinitas  brings Andrew Lane Wines of Napa Valley in for a wine dinner Tues. Aug. 21 at 6pm.  $65. pp.  Details at 760-942-2104.

Orfila Winery in Escondido presents its annual GRAPESTOMP, Sat. Aug. 25 from 4 to 8pm.  Includes wine tasting, dinner buffet, grape stomping, live music and tractor rides.  $85. pp, $68. for club members.  Call 800-868-9463 or visit www.orfila.com.

It’s Cozy with the Piano Man at Mille Fleurs

by Frank Mangio
Every Wednesday through Saturday for the past 17 years at Mille Fleurs in Rancho Santa Fe, after-dinner guests and new arrivals with wine glass in-hand, gather around the grand piano for the unique talent and voice of Randy Beecher. “I started in May of 1993 and I’ve always loved the energy in this room,” he said, flashing that perpetual smile. “I try to read the room and what they might want to hear.”

Randy plays and sings it all, from show tunes to Motown to current pop music. I asked him if his romantic atmosphere has helped guests meet and date. “Oh yes,” he answered. “And, marriage proposals are made over my music.”
He credits owner Bertrand Hug and manager Julien Hug for recognizing his talent and staying with him and providing him with a stage for his music.

Randy Beecher is the piano man Wednesday through Saturdays at the popular Mille Fleurs in Rancho Santa Fe.

All this good-time entertainment is an entrée to a legendary restaurant dining and wine experience at Mille Fleurs. I suggest you start out at the bar and taste the house signature wines, especially the Tantara 2008s.

Bertrand is a Bordeaux Blend aficionado and his Cuvee Bertrand from Santa Barbara is one he blended himself ( $50.). The kitchen is governed by award-winning Chef de Cuisine Martin Woesle, who trained in Munich Germany, worked in Hollywood’s Ma Maison and has been at Mille Fleurs since 1985. He uses fresh vegetables, salads and other ingredients from the nearby Chino’s Farm. Mille Fleurs offers a Prix Fixe Menu as well as an entrée menu with about 12 choices including Five Light Mediterranean selections.

The Hugs also own Mister A’s, a historic rooftop restaurant on 5th Avenue downtown San Diego and have just purchased and renovated a restaurant on El Paseo in downtown Palm Desert, Augusta Modern. Learn more at www.millefleurs.com.

NEW BOOKS: Fine Wineries of Napa-Sonoma-Mendocino & Central Coast
Two beautifully bound wine books have appeared as a colorful visitors guide with profiles and color images of all the most glamorous wineries and vineyards in Napa Valley, Sonoma and Mendocino; and the 2nd book displaying wineries from Central Coast, including Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo and Paso Robles.

Wine traveler and publisher Tom Silberkleit is the master publisher behind this 4th edition of Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino, and the 1st edition of Central Coast Wineries. September is California Wine Month, celebrating the over 3,000 wineries that dot the state.

Silberkleit’s mission has been to do the on-site legwork to spotlight a number of excellent choices for the weekend traveler. The 160 page Napa-Sonoma-Mendocino edition alone has over 200 color images and profiles of 69 wineries with features and directions on each. The retail price is $19.95 hardcover and available at leading bookstores and Amazon.com. Be sure to explore their website at www.Californiafinewineries.com

Wine Bytes
Bernardo Winery in Rancho Bernardo has Jazz on the Patio, 2 to 5pm Sundays. On Sept. 26 Jimmy and Enrique with guitar and percussion, and Oct. 3rd it’s the Peter Sprague Trio. For details call 858-487-1866.

Ponte Winery in Temecula has its 8th annual Grape Stomp Festival Sun. Sept. 26, from 4 to 9pm. Competition, dancing, live music and a buffet dinner for $95. pp. Wine club members $86. And of course lots of Ponte wines to taste are included. Order tickets at 951-694-8855.

South Coast Winery Resort and Spa has two exciting events: The Blessing of the Wine, Grape Stomp and Harvest from 4 to 7pm Sun. Sept. 26 with a BBQ, contests, live music and dancing. Reserve tickets at 951-587-9463; and a Jazz concert by the great Kenny G on Sat. Oct. 2 with show time at 8pm. Doors open at 5pm, dinner at 6:30pm. Tiered ticket prices, starting as low as $55. Check out the website www.rythmonthevine.org. Or call Ticket Master at 800-745-3000.

VR Green Farms at the Bella Colina Golf Course in San Clemente has an authentic Roman Encampment Sun. Sept. 26 from 11 to 3pm.Experience Roman Legion costumes, music, customs and language. $10. ea. Food and drink available for $55. RSVP for more information at 949-697-0032.

Briar Rose Winery in Temecula presents Barrie Lynn, the Beverly Hills Times Cheese Empresario Sat. Oct. 2 at 6pm, for an Artisanal Cheese and Wine Pairing Adventure and Class. Taste acclaimed and library award winning wines paired with international cheeses, to perfection. Cost is $45. RSVP at 951-308-1098.

Coastal Carlsbad’s Winery: WitchCreek

Photo: Ryan Baker (left), along with two of the WitchCreek owners

by Frank Mangio

Ok, so I’ve been not seeing and tasting what’s under my nose. After four years and 160 or so wine columns, I have never stepped into a winery in my own home town of Carlsbad. My miss. A grape-growing friend of mine who has a virtual Italian vineyard laboratory in his back yard in Carlsbad, called to alert me to the fact that WitchCreek Winery, along the shore near downtown Carlsbad had just won double gold at the latest, prestigous San Francisco Chronicle Newspaper Wine Competition for its 2005 Nebbiolo.

Pete Anderson could hardly contain his excitement, as he is a contributing consultant for WitchCreek. The Italian grapes actually come up from the Guadalupe Valley of Mexico, under the watchful eye of the L.A. Cetto vineyard and winery and their world-renowned winemaker Camillo Magoni. I have interviewed this native Piedmont Italian sage, and he is a brilliant sculpture of Nebbiolo grapes. Camillo nurtured the winning Nebbiolo to display deep fruit, chocolate and a light berry hint. The bottle retails for $35. and is only available at the Carlsbad and Ramona locations for WitchCreek.

The winery has a history that dates back to 1993, founded by the Wodehouse family. Dave Wodehouse focused on handcrafted, full-bodied wines. He still pays an active role as Executive Winemaker and enjoys digging into some fascinating Italian style grapes, along with Ryan and Pete. They had me try a little know varietal from the Campania area of Italy: their 2006 Aglianico (pronounced ah-lian-eeco).

These grapes also came up from Camillo’s vineyard and sells for $20. The Greeks first introduced this grape to the area in and around Naples and the Amalfi Coast. A very dark color sets the stage for an earthy, chocolate accent. The Aglianico grape loves heat, so it does nicely in the Guadalupe Valley.

Other recent wines at WitchCreek include a just-bottled “Kathy’s Cuvee” a blend of five grapes ( $35.), and “Fat Cat Red,”a lovely everyday red wine ($10.). Check out WitchCreek Winery in Carlsbad and Ramona at www.witchcreekwinery.com.


The Latest in Temecula Wine Country

There always something new in Southern California’s Wine Country.

Stuart Cellars also did very well at the 200 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. Their ’06 Syrah won double gold and best of class! Falkner’s ’06 Sauvignon Blanc also took a double gold and best of class. Maurice Carrie’s 2007 Sauvignon Blanc won gold. Congrats to all the winners from our closest wine country.

Oak Mountain Winery is the newest member of the winery association. Located on 10 acres just off DePortola Road and owned by Valerie and Steve Andrews, they emphasize Bordeuax varietals.

Easter festivities are coming to Wine Country and Falkner Winery has an annual brunch Sunday March 23 from 11am to 4pm at the Pinnacle Restaurant. Champagne and wine will be in abundance, as well as traditional cuisine from eggs to salmon. $54.95 per person and $24.50 for kids. RSVP at 951-676-8231. Ponte has its Easter Brunch from 11am to 3pm, with an Alice in Wonderland theme. Easter Egg Hunt for the kids. $70. per person, children $30. Call 800-931-6617.

Days of Wine and Roses - Valentines Day in Temecula

by Frank Mangio

Romance is alive and well in the vineyards of Temecula Wine Country as those wineries with a restaurant component are busy planning an evening to remember, not only on Thursday, February 14th, Valentines Day, but the day after, and on Saturday night the 16th.

South Coast Winery, Resort and Spa: A romantic setting in the Vineyard Rose with spectacular food pairings for their award-winning Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet and “Black Jack” Port. The “cupids” on staff will take care of your every need. $98. per person. Call in the RSVP at 951-587-9463.

Thornton Winery: Three locations to choose from with perfectly paired food and wine, with tray passed appetizers and Thornton NV Cuvee Rouge Champagne. View the menu on line at www.thorntonwine.com. $80. per person. RSVP at 951-699-0099.

Falkner Winery: A spectacular 4 course dinner in the Pinnacle Restaurant with Falkner’s best wines. Choice of beef or fish, plus port and champagne.
$95. per person. Reserve at 951-676-8231.

For Additonal Events, please email Frank Mangio