More Wines to Know in Napa Valley

by Frank Mangio
There is no debate that the best known wine country in America  has been under a lot of stress due to the economy, challenging grape growing weather, price cutting and carpetbagger-discounters.  It’s been a struggle the past 5 years for the famed Napa Valley.  What a difference a year has made. 2012 will be forever known as the great turn around year for this small place with the big reputation, that produces just 4% of California’s wine grapes but sells some 80% of its wines.

I have come to be convinced that “mountain wines” in the Napa Valley are in many ways, the most intense and flavorful.  Three appellations stand out, so let’s start with Mt. Veeder to the south, and Hess Collection, founded by Swiss born Donald Hess in 1978.

Hess Collection Senior Wine Educator Emily Eckerman pours a 2011 Small Block Pinor Gris 

($24. at the winery).

Hess now has 310 acres under vine on Mt. Veeder plus two other Napa vineyards and one in Monterey, and sustainably farmed according to the Hess philosophy:  “nurture the land, return what you take.”

The wine name to know at Hess is the 2008 Mt. Veeder 19 Block Cuvee, a Cabernet based blend, with Malbec, Merlot and Syrah ( $36. at the winery).

At the northern edge of Napa Valley, way up on Howell Mountain, sits Robert Craig Winery. This area begins at 1,400 feet above the fog, meaning warmer mornings and cooler afternoon breezes.  Cabernets rule here and Zinfandels do well also. Rocky, volcanic soil allows porous conditions with superior drainage for deep roots.

Robert Craig grows great Cabs at 2,400 feet on just 9 acres, planting only where nature allowed.  He has 34 acres at neighboring Spring Mountain.  He was with Hess Collection when he founded his vineyard in 1978, then started the Robert Craig name in 1992.  He makes only mountain Cabernet and calls it the “Iron Fist in the Velvet Glove.” Try his flagship 2009 Affinity, a delicious splash of dark berry flavor with hints of espresso and anisette ( $45. at the winery.)

November’s  San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival brought in Michael Keenan of the Spring Mountain District of Napa Valley, winemaker and owner of Robert Keenan Winery.  The winery is known world-wide for its brilliantly crafted Merlots, harvested from  Keenan’s 3 vineyards.

Michael Keenan of Robert Keenan Winery lit up a recent seminar at the San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival with his comparative tasting of Keenan Merlots from around the Napa Valley.

“We’re in a big turn around on price and quality,” he asserted. “My favorite wine is Merlot.  It goes with almost everything I eat; it’s round and elegant with a sensual taste.  It is an uphill struggle only because it doesn’t get the publicity other reds get, and too many wineries were making bad Merlot.  The best thing that ever happened to Merlot was the movie Sideways because it forced a lot of wineries to get rid of their mediocre Merlot. Women love it as an alternative to the tannic Cabernets.”

The year 2012 was excellent for the Merlot crop and gave it powerful flavor enhancement. I recommend the 2009 Keenan Napa Valley Merlot, a big tasting Merlot mostly from Spring Mountain ($36. at the winery).

Wine Spectator has just revealed its #1 wine in the world and I am happy to announce, it’s a Napa Valley wine:  the 2008 Shafer “Relentless” Blend, a combination of Syrah and Petite Syrah, made on a hill in the Stags Leap District. ($60, at the winery)

Wine Bytes
Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas has an Italian Face-off Tour of the Boot tasting Fri. Dec. 7 from 6 to 8pm for $20. pp.  Details at 760-479-2500.

A High End Bordeaux wine tasting happens at Bacchus Wine Market, downtown San Diego Sat. Dec. 8 from 2 to 8:30pm. Try world class Cabernet, Merlot and Meritage blends.  Cost is $35.  Call 619-236-0005.

Dolce Pane E Vino in Rancho Santa Fe presents a B Cellars Wine Dinner Tues. Dec. 11 at 6:30pm.  Some of the best from Napa Valley will be paired with the cuisine of two chefs.  RSVP at 858-832-1518.

Firefly Grill & Wine Bar in Encinitas is planning A Roth Estate  Sonoma Wine Dinner Thurs. Dec. 13 from 6:30 to 9pm, featuring Alexander Valley Cabernet 2009 with pan roasted Flat Iron Steak.  $60. pp.  Call 760-635-1066.

Harvest On Howell Mountain

by Frank Mangio
In our last report on Napa Valley wines, most wineries were happy to see the progress of the fruit as it experienced “Veraison,” the changing of the leaves and grapes to a rich color, signaling the onset of harvest.  This latest blast of heat we are experiencing seals the deal, especially on Howell Mountain, the first AVA subappellation  in Napa Valley and an  impressive elevation for growing wine grapes beginning at 1,400 feet above the fog. This means warmer mornings and cooler afternoon breezes.   This is Cab Country, concentrated and structured.

Howell Mountain, the highest elevation in Napa Valley rises to 2,400 feet and is home to Cabernet, Merlot and Zinfandel. The Cakebread Dancing Bear Vineyard is shown.

TASTE OF WINE was struck by its elegant and timeless qualitieswith a Mountain Wine distinctive flavor , characterized by pepper and warm spices.  The grapes are small, tightly clustered and powerfully concentrated for intense fruit.  They develop thick skins that yield rich tannins. A closer look at the terroir reveals rich, red volcanic soils  with naturally superb iron, enriching the grapes in Howell’s 600 + acres planted.  Here are some names to know:

Robert Craig Winery
Robert and Lynn Craig have been producing distinctive Cabernets for over 20 years.  Their ’96
Cab brought fame when Wine Spectator called it the hot new winery. It’s been a top 50 Cab producer ever since.

  

The winemaker since 2008 at the 20 acre Robert Craig Winery on Howell Mountain is Stephen Tebb.

Be sure to taste their 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet with 85% Cab, 6% Petit Verdot, 7% Merlot, and 2% Malbec.  It recently bagged 96 points at Wine Advocate.  www.robertcraigwine.com.

Charles Krug Winery.  The Peter Mondavi Family has staked their reputation on the 9 acres planted to Cabernet on their 20 acre parcel and the accolades are pouring in on this ’07 Howell Mountain Rocky Ridge Vineyard Cab, their first release from their Howell Mountain Vineyard. www.charleskrug.com.

O’Shaughnessy Estate Winery.  Owner Betty O’Shaunessy began her winery in 1990 in Oakville and over the next few years more vineyards on Howell and Mt. Veeder.  Founding winemaker Sean Capiaux is still master winemker, creating world class Cabernet. with deep roots on the  hillside property.  A favorite is the 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet offering excellent structure and deep color.  www.oshaughnessy.com.

Betty O’Shaughnessy at harvest.

Duckhorn Vineyards.  Duckhorn has its headquarters winery in St. Helena on the floor of Napa Valley, but their vineyard that has the signature 2007 Cabernet is midway up Howell Mountain.  They have sourced cab here since 1989.  The current release has 68% Cab and  32% Merlot.  To further encourage complexity, this wine was bottle-aged one year longer than normal prior to release.  www.duckhorn.com.

Cakebread Cellars was founded in 1973 by Jack and Dolores Cakebread.  The current winemaker is Julianne Laks, only the 3rd winemaker in 35 years.  Their Cabernets are full-throttle wonderful.  Their Howell Mountain Dancing Bear ranch is a favorite, with most applause reserved for the 2007 with 22 months in French Oak. The mix is 80% Cab, 13% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc.  www.cakebread.com.

You can experience mountain wines from Howell Mountain at a Harvest Celebration in Napa Valley’s Yountville, Saturday November 3 from 1 to 4pm at the V Wine Cellar.  $35. pp. advance tickets for 17 wineries plus Chef’s tasting menu.  Call 707-965-2665 or visit www.howellmountain.org.

Wine Bytes
PAON in Carlsbad presents a Napa/Sonoma Tasting in the Tasting Bar, Thurs. Sept. 27 thru Wed. Oct. 3. Six one ounce glasses for $16. Check for names at 760-729-7377.

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas has Lobsterfest 2012 Sat. Sept. 29 from 6 to 9pm.  Advance tix required at $100. ea.  This is an old fashioned Maine Lobster Boil with all the trimmings with lots of wines.  Call now at 760-479-2500.

Ponte Winery in Temecula rolls out its Grape Stomp Sun. Sept. 30 from 4 to 9pm.  Cost is $95. for a Buffet Dinner, and Dance.  Stomps are team mate competition for prizes.  Call 877-314-WINE.

The RB Historical Society brings its 2nd annual wine tasting, music and food fest to Bernardo Winery, Sun. Sept. 30 from Noon to 4pm.  Four live bands will play. Beer and wine from area breweries and vineyards.  Tickets $20. ea. or at the door for $25.  Call 858-775-5788.