More Wines to Know in Napa Valley

by Frank Mangio
There is no debate that the best known wine country in America  has been under a lot of stress due to the economy, challenging grape growing weather, price cutting and carpetbagger-discounters.  It’s been a struggle the past 5 years for the famed Napa Valley.  What a difference a year has made. 2012 will be forever known as the great turn around year for this small place with the big reputation, that produces just 4% of California’s wine grapes but sells some 80% of its wines.

I have come to be convinced that “mountain wines” in the Napa Valley are in many ways, the most intense and flavorful.  Three appellations stand out, so let’s start with Mt. Veeder to the south, and Hess Collection, founded by Swiss born Donald Hess in 1978.

Hess Collection Senior Wine Educator Emily Eckerman pours a 2011 Small Block Pinor Gris 

($24. at the winery).

Hess now has 310 acres under vine on Mt. Veeder plus two other Napa vineyards and one in Monterey, and sustainably farmed according to the Hess philosophy:  “nurture the land, return what you take.”

The wine name to know at Hess is the 2008 Mt. Veeder 19 Block Cuvee, a Cabernet based blend, with Malbec, Merlot and Syrah ( $36. at the winery).

At the northern edge of Napa Valley, way up on Howell Mountain, sits Robert Craig Winery. This area begins at 1,400 feet above the fog, meaning warmer mornings and cooler afternoon breezes.  Cabernets rule here and Zinfandels do well also. Rocky, volcanic soil allows porous conditions with superior drainage for deep roots.

Robert Craig grows great Cabs at 2,400 feet on just 9 acres, planting only where nature allowed.  He has 34 acres at neighboring Spring Mountain.  He was with Hess Collection when he founded his vineyard in 1978, then started the Robert Craig name in 1992.  He makes only mountain Cabernet and calls it the “Iron Fist in the Velvet Glove.” Try his flagship 2009 Affinity, a delicious splash of dark berry flavor with hints of espresso and anisette ( $45. at the winery.)

November’s  San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival brought in Michael Keenan of the Spring Mountain District of Napa Valley, winemaker and owner of Robert Keenan Winery.  The winery is known world-wide for its brilliantly crafted Merlots, harvested from  Keenan’s 3 vineyards.

Michael Keenan of Robert Keenan Winery lit up a recent seminar at the San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival with his comparative tasting of Keenan Merlots from around the Napa Valley.

“We’re in a big turn around on price and quality,” he asserted. “My favorite wine is Merlot.  It goes with almost everything I eat; it’s round and elegant with a sensual taste.  It is an uphill struggle only because it doesn’t get the publicity other reds get, and too many wineries were making bad Merlot.  The best thing that ever happened to Merlot was the movie Sideways because it forced a lot of wineries to get rid of their mediocre Merlot. Women love it as an alternative to the tannic Cabernets.”

The year 2012 was excellent for the Merlot crop and gave it powerful flavor enhancement. I recommend the 2009 Keenan Napa Valley Merlot, a big tasting Merlot mostly from Spring Mountain ($36. at the winery).

Wine Spectator has just revealed its #1 wine in the world and I am happy to announce, it’s a Napa Valley wine:  the 2008 Shafer “Relentless” Blend, a combination of Syrah and Petite Syrah, made on a hill in the Stags Leap District. ($60, at the winery)

Wine Bytes
Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas has an Italian Face-off Tour of the Boot tasting Fri. Dec. 7 from 6 to 8pm for $20. pp.  Details at 760-479-2500.

A High End Bordeaux wine tasting happens at Bacchus Wine Market, downtown San Diego Sat. Dec. 8 from 2 to 8:30pm. Try world class Cabernet, Merlot and Meritage blends.  Cost is $35.  Call 619-236-0005.

Dolce Pane E Vino in Rancho Santa Fe presents a B Cellars Wine Dinner Tues. Dec. 11 at 6:30pm.  Some of the best from Napa Valley will be paired with the cuisine of two chefs.  RSVP at 858-832-1518.

Firefly Grill & Wine Bar in Encinitas is planning A Roth Estate  Sonoma Wine Dinner Thurs. Dec. 13 from 6:30 to 9pm, featuring Alexander Valley Cabernet 2009 with pan roasted Flat Iron Steak.  $60. pp.  Call 760-635-1066.

Deep in the Heart of the Jarvis Wine Cave

by Frank Mangio

William and Leticia Jarvis are unlikely Napa Valley wine owners. He was raised in a “dry” state, Oklahoma, and she was raised in Pueblo Mexico. After mutual successes in business, they met, married and adopted France for a part time residence.

The Jarvis’s developed a passion for Bordeaux Reds and gravitated to the Napa Valley where in the 1980’s they purchased 37 acres of vineyards. In 1995 they developed the stunning underground 45,000 square foot cave-inspired Jarvis Estate Winery, located East of Napa and tunneled into the Vaca Mountains. It has an underground stream and magnificent waterfall.

The “Crystal Chamber” is lit with large amethyst crystals and a large ballroom holds memorable galas, including the American Wine Classic Auction Napa Valley Barrel Tasting and Auction, planned this year for June 1st.

Leticia and William Jarvis welcome visitors to their magnificent Jarvis Estate Wine Cave in the Napa Valley.

The deepest chamber of the cave is bigger than two basketball courts allowing all fermentation tanks and other processing equipment to be underground. The stream and underground water system maintain a humidity level at an ideal level for barrel aging.

Since 2008, Ted Henry has been the winemaker, closest to the daily care needed for high quality, crafted bottles. He is fortunate to have Dimitri Tchelistcheff, considered the wisest scholar of Napa winemaking, as his consultant winemaker. He is a member of the Vintner’s Hall of Fame. Tchelistcheff began his winemaking career some 68 years ago. He has done it all!

Jarvis varietals include: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, Chardonnay and Tempranillo. The winery produces 9,000 cases a year. TASTE OF WINE recommends the 2007 Lake William Blend, with 93 points from Wine Enthusiast. The 2005 Reserve Cabernet has a 94 point award from Wine Enthusiast and 92 points from Robert Parker.

For more information on Jarvis Estate Winery, visit www.jarviswines.com, or call 1-800-255-5280.

Fresh Casual is the Way to Go for Restaurants

The front-runners in the competition for the restaurant dollar are clearly fresh, farm to table cuisine, simply done and served. The food is locally sourced and nutritionally natural. Meat, fish, produce, all with a seasonal flair, have caught the wave of diner favor.

The wineries have connected with savvy chefs who respect what wines can do for food. They spend valuable time tasting wines and presenting menu items that match up with a Pinot Noir, Cabernet or Merlot.

American food and wine palates are more adventurous than ever, thanks to TV Food channels, chefs and wait-help in restaurants that can spin the nutritional, natural flavors of food and wine in these fresh-casual formats.

Light Italian such as Rosotto, Gnocchi and Caprese seem to top many casual menu lists, as well as wood oven-baked pizzas Margherita style, with light cheese, tomato, sweet basil and a dash of “funghi” ( mushrooms.)

Pascal Vignau who ran the popular casual comfort food restaurant Savory in Encinitas, will now be Executive Chef of Chandler’s in the new Hilton Carlsbad Oceanfront Resort & Spa.

The hotels and resorts have sat up and taken notice of these trends. The new still-being-built Hilton Carlsbad Oceanfront Resort & Spa with Carlsbad beach views from its Chandler’s Restaurant site, has brought in Executive Chef Pascal Vignau, who brought Savory to Encinitas 8 years ago. He is widely known for his simple, brilliant style of comfort food, brought together with seasonal menus and world-class wines. The trend to fresh casual menus is going uptown.

Wine Bytes

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas is going with Spicy Reds: Grenache, Syrah and Zin at its event on Fri. March 24 at 6pm. 6 reds offered. Get your spice for $20 ea. More info at 760-479-2500.

North County Wine Company in San Marcos has a couple of fun tastings Wed. March 28 from 5pm with a Sangria Party from 5pm for $10.; then an Italian Wine Party on Fri. March 30 from 4pm for $10. This one has special pizzas and calzones. Call 760-744-2119 for details.

Europa Village in Temecula Wine Country presents a Sommelier Workshop with wine & food basics on Tues. March 20 from 6 to 7:30pm. Learn new trends on how to make wine and food dance. $49. pp. RSVP at 951-216-3380.

Cal State San Marcos presents Managing Wine Style from Grape Production to Bottle Sat. March 31 from 9am to 4pm. This seminar includes 6 Pinot Noir tastings, lunch & refreshments. $75. ea. Call Jill at 760-750-8705.