It’s “Mangia Bene” When Italians Throw a Party

by Frank Mangio
I knew it would be a memorable evening when I set first set foot inside the iconic Italian restaurant, Il Fornaio in Del Mar a short time ago.  The section for this special “Piemonte” dinner and wine pairing was one long banquet table with dozens of happy faces, face to face.

“Piemonte,” the Piedmont District of Northern Italy, is rich in culinary and wine history.  Its first recorded wines were made some 3,000 years ago. It’s the home of Barolo and Barbaresco, towns that became famous for making some of the finest traditional Italian wines.

Il Fornaio General Manager Mathew Galli and Batasiolo Wine Manager Stefano Poggi guided an Italian dinner and wine event in Del Mar.

But let’s give credit to the food first. Il Fornaio’s General Manager, the congenial Mathew Galli, followed Italiancustom with a five part harmony of food service:  Assaggini, Antipasti, Primi, Secondi and Dolce. Primi is always a pasta based dish and this time there were two: a risotto with scallops and a roasted butternut squash ravioli.  Secondi, the main entrée, was a roasted fish fillet plus a braised wild boar shoulder. Dolce, the dessert, was a hazlenut and amaretto chocolate custard.

And so it was “Mangia Bene,” the Italian phrase for “great eating.”  Of course great eating in Italy is always better with great wine and on this night, Batasiolo with its Barolo heavyweight was king,
although Batasiolo’s Barbera entry, served with risotto and the squash ravioli, won new fans with its medium bodied acidity and smooth flow though the palate. It’s perfect for light pasta dishes.

Barolo of course takes center stage, coming from the town of the same name, a small, tucked away district in Piedmont, perfect growing conditions for the native grape called Nebbiolo.  This is the backbone for Barolo and gives it the deep ruby red, spicy aroma.  It is often called the “King of Italian Wines” for a velvety but powerful taste.  It was served appropriately with the wild boar shoulder at the Il Fornaio Italian occasion.

Wine districts are tiny in Piedmont Italy, with Barolo being just 3 miles by 5 miles, but its fine

wines are known worldwide.

“Piemonte” means foot of the mountain and is the largest region in Italy, which has only been a unified country for 150 years. The terrain isso steep in most areas that it is far from being the largest producer of wine. But if only fine wines are counted, it is right up there with the Tuscany and Veneto areas.

For big, soul-warming wines, try the Batasiolo 2008 Barolo, the world’s leading producer of Barolo. ($45.)  Il Fornaio is continuing its “Festa Regionale” series with the food and wine of Calabria, now through March 17.  For more, go to www.ilfornaio.com.

2012 Great Year for Wine Sales in the U.S.
Wine Spectator reports that 325 million cases of wine were bought in 2012 in this country, 2% over last year and passing France as the world’s biggest wine market. Export sales were 1.4 Billion Dollars, with 90% of those sales coming from California. And the price of a bottle, on average, is moving up past $9. and above.

Gallo Winery’s President is quoted as saying “more than 15,000 U.S. citizens per day are reaching the legal drinking age,” along with a major shift toward wine consumption among younger drinkers.

Wine Bytes
Chandler’s Restaurant and Lounge overlooking the beach in Carlsbad, now has select half price wines on Tuesdays.  Lots of Sonoma and Napa Valley choices.  For details and RSVP’s call 760-683-5500.

San Diego Wine Company on Miramar Road has a Cabernet Tasting, Sat. March 9 from 11am to 4pm for just $10. Details at 858-586-WINE.

Bistro West in Carlsbad is presenting a Napa Valley Whitehall Lane Wine Dinner Tues. March 12 at 6:30pm.  $75. pp.  To reserve seating phone 760-930-8008.

A high-end Cabernet tasting is coming to Bacchus Wine Market downtown San Diego, Fri. March 15 from 4 to 8:30pm.  7 great tastes for $35.  More by calling 619-236-0005.

Europa Village in Temecula Wine Country brings guitarist Jimmy Patton in for a St Patrick’s Day concert, Sun. March17 from 1 to 4pm.  Free admission.  Try their green Sangria. Wear green for a  costume contest.  Details at 951-216-3380.

Deep in the Heart of the Jarvis Wine Cave

by Frank Mangio

William and Leticia Jarvis are unlikely Napa Valley wine owners. He was raised in a “dry” state, Oklahoma, and she was raised in Pueblo Mexico. After mutual successes in business, they met, married and adopted France for a part time residence.

The Jarvis’s developed a passion for Bordeaux Reds and gravitated to the Napa Valley where in the 1980’s they purchased 37 acres of vineyards. In 1995 they developed the stunning underground 45,000 square foot cave-inspired Jarvis Estate Winery, located East of Napa and tunneled into the Vaca Mountains. It has an underground stream and magnificent waterfall.

The “Crystal Chamber” is lit with large amethyst crystals and a large ballroom holds memorable galas, including the American Wine Classic Auction Napa Valley Barrel Tasting and Auction, planned this year for June 1st.

Leticia and William Jarvis welcome visitors to their magnificent Jarvis Estate Wine Cave in the Napa Valley.

The deepest chamber of the cave is bigger than two basketball courts allowing all fermentation tanks and other processing equipment to be underground. The stream and underground water system maintain a humidity level at an ideal level for barrel aging.

Since 2008, Ted Henry has been the winemaker, closest to the daily care needed for high quality, crafted bottles. He is fortunate to have Dimitri Tchelistcheff, considered the wisest scholar of Napa winemaking, as his consultant winemaker. He is a member of the Vintner’s Hall of Fame. Tchelistcheff began his winemaking career some 68 years ago. He has done it all!

Jarvis varietals include: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, Chardonnay and Tempranillo. The winery produces 9,000 cases a year. TASTE OF WINE recommends the 2007 Lake William Blend, with 93 points from Wine Enthusiast. The 2005 Reserve Cabernet has a 94 point award from Wine Enthusiast and 92 points from Robert Parker.

For more information on Jarvis Estate Winery, visit www.jarviswines.com, or call 1-800-255-5280.

Fresh Casual is the Way to Go for Restaurants

The front-runners in the competition for the restaurant dollar are clearly fresh, farm to table cuisine, simply done and served. The food is locally sourced and nutritionally natural. Meat, fish, produce, all with a seasonal flair, have caught the wave of diner favor.

The wineries have connected with savvy chefs who respect what wines can do for food. They spend valuable time tasting wines and presenting menu items that match up with a Pinot Noir, Cabernet or Merlot.

American food and wine palates are more adventurous than ever, thanks to TV Food channels, chefs and wait-help in restaurants that can spin the nutritional, natural flavors of food and wine in these fresh-casual formats.

Light Italian such as Rosotto, Gnocchi and Caprese seem to top many casual menu lists, as well as wood oven-baked pizzas Margherita style, with light cheese, tomato, sweet basil and a dash of “funghi” ( mushrooms.)

Pascal Vignau who ran the popular casual comfort food restaurant Savory in Encinitas, will now be Executive Chef of Chandler’s in the new Hilton Carlsbad Oceanfront Resort & Spa.

The hotels and resorts have sat up and taken notice of these trends. The new still-being-built Hilton Carlsbad Oceanfront Resort & Spa with Carlsbad beach views from its Chandler’s Restaurant site, has brought in Executive Chef Pascal Vignau, who brought Savory to Encinitas 8 years ago. He is widely known for his simple, brilliant style of comfort food, brought together with seasonal menus and world-class wines. The trend to fresh casual menus is going uptown.

Wine Bytes

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas is going with Spicy Reds: Grenache, Syrah and Zin at its event on Fri. March 24 at 6pm. 6 reds offered. Get your spice for $20 ea. More info at 760-479-2500.

North County Wine Company in San Marcos has a couple of fun tastings Wed. March 28 from 5pm with a Sangria Party from 5pm for $10.; then an Italian Wine Party on Fri. March 30 from 4pm for $10. This one has special pizzas and calzones. Call 760-744-2119 for details.

Europa Village in Temecula Wine Country presents a Sommelier Workshop with wine & food basics on Tues. March 20 from 6 to 7:30pm. Learn new trends on how to make wine and food dance. $49. pp. RSVP at 951-216-3380.

Cal State San Marcos presents Managing Wine Style from Grape Production to Bottle Sat. March 31 from 9am to 4pm. This seminar includes 6 Pinot Noir tastings, lunch & refreshments. $75. ea. Call Jill at 760-750-8705.