A Farmer in the Kitchen at Bistro West

by Frank Mangio
There is a restaurant revival making its way through San Diego County, riding on the crest of more premium wine lists and the call for “Farm to Table” produce, arriving at your plate with same day freshness. That statement takes on new meaning at Bistro West, the comfortable yet dynamic dining favorite in Carlsbad , part of the West Village, with its West Inn & Suites and West Steak and Seafood.

Executive Chef Jeff Campagna orchestrates the ever-evolving menu at Bistro West in Carlsbad,

based on his seasonal harvest of produce at the restaurant’s farm.

 Several years ago, West Farm, a 3 acre produce-growing piece of paradise, was added to the West family, just a few miles from the restaurant. Executive Chef Jeff Campagna has over 30 years in the restaurant business and is known for his creativity and innovation with new plates, customized from French, Asian, Italian and California influences.  He has recently joined Bistro West.

“Having your own farm is a dream come true for a chef,” said Campagna.  “To be able to work directly at a farm, influence the harvest and create dishes made from scratch, is a rare opportunity. Early in the morning, we pick from 6 varieties of lettuce, baby carrots, beets, kale, brussel sprouts, asparagus, peppers, zucchini and zucchini flowers.  We are planting trees, and we’re picking avocado, plum, fig, lemon lime, orange and pear.”

The menu at Bistro West is a wonderland of creativity and the choices are just about limitless.  You need to see it and taste it to believe it.  Campagna is as close to an artist in his menu creations as I have experienced.

In reviewing the Bistro West wine list, one thing that struck me was the household names on it that most wine lovers know and buy for their dinners and parties.  And most names were under $50. a bottle.  Every Monday, with no exceptions, all bottles of wine are half price.

As I have revealed in past columns, 2012 was a heaven-sent year for California wines and I was happy to see that most west coast wines on the list were indeed 2012 harvested.  My favorite for flavor and price was the 2012 La Crema Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast.  This is from the Jackson Family of wines that seek only the best vineyards for their brands.  Inhale red cherry, spice and coffee aromas that set up the palate for delicious fruit flavors.

 West Bistro is celebrating the holidays with a generous gift for guests that purchase a $100. gift card available for purchase until December 31st. Receive a $20. bonus card, with each  $100. Gift Card purchase. This no- expiration gift card is redeemable at both Bistro West and West Steak and Seafood.  Call for details on this promotion or a table reservation at 760-930-8008.

National Restaurant & Wine Sales Up
As an article in the last Wine Spectator proclaimed “fine dining and wine go hand in hand, and both restaurant sales and premium wines are turning the corner and heading back up the 2nd half of 2014".

The magazine points to numbers from the National Restaurant Association which is projecting sales for 2014 to be 16% higher than it was in 2010.  This is proof that it’s not so much bigger numbers of diners and wine consumers, but that those that eat out are spending more for the experience.

Corporate business is doing much better for the restaurants that cater to such diners.  “They are taking the brakes off and  spending on unfamiliar wine names, and even seem more excited to spend money,” the magazine pointed out.  See winespectator.com/newsandfeatures for more.

Wine Bytes
Bijou French Bistro in La Jolla presents 3 to 5 course prix fixe menus for Christmas and New Year’s Eve, served from 5:30 to 10pm.  Christmas Eve is $85.00 pp.  The New Year’s Eve event is $105. pp.  For reservations, call 858-750-3695.

Marina Kitchen in San Diego has delicious tastes for the season on Dec. 24 and Dec. 25 with festive buffet favorites. Available 5 to 9 pm. Includes Brandt Beef Prime Rib and Roasted Dijouri Chicken, fresh fish and greens.  Price is $48. ea., $12.99 for children.  For reservations call: 619-312-1212.

Enjoy the holidays at Vineyard Rose Restaurant , South Coast Winery in Temecula.  Starts Dec. 24 at 5:30pm and ends Dec. 25 at 9pm. Choice of entrée, $40. to $45. Call 951-491-8077.

Plumpjack Winery is tasted at Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido Sat. Dec. 20 from 2 to 4pm. $15. charge.  Call to reserve at 760-745-1200.

North County Wine Company presents a very special wine tasting, Fri. Dec. 19 and Sat. Dec. 20, titled “the Tobin Twenty.”  The Tobin brothers promise a memorable night of wine tasting.  Call 760-653-9032.

Farm Fresh Food with First Class Wines at West

by Frank Mangio
There’s something remarkable going on at Bistro West and West Steak and Seafood in Carlsbad.  It’s excellence aligned, with top tier wine presentations and food unequaled in freshness and taste on the restaurant landscape.

In a way it’s a simple but brilliant model of same-day fresh vegetables and fruit and the very best Napa Valley/ Sonoma wines, to excite diners who crave this combination.  Evidence the recent wine dinner marquee wineries to present:  Silver Oak and Ferrari- Carano from Sonoma and on Tuesday June 18th, Duckhorn Winery comes in from Napa Valley.  This will be a gold rush sellout and we advise an RSVP on this right away, at 760-930-9100.

 Left to right:  Ben Cane, Winemaker from Silver Oak/Twomey, Julie Bart, rep from Silver Oak, Tom Bertrand, GM of West Steak and Seafood and Bistro West Manager Sean Merzbacher.

Silver Oak is one of the standard bearers for fine Cabernet ever since the wine world of Napa and Sonoma caught on in the 70’s.”Life is a Cabernet” was created by owner Justin Meyer.  Its current 2008 vintage from the Alexander Valley($60.) was served up at West to pair with Executive Chef Eugenio Martignago’s Wagyu steak.  It was a truly savory experience. The Silver Oak 2008 Napa Valley Cabernet ( $90.) was mated with the Rib Eye Cap, a luxury combination that gets to the heart of the West program of only excellence...Only excellence is never more true than Chef Eugenio’s three acre West Farm, just a couple of short miles from West Steak and Seafood and Bistro West.

Someone once said “Shipping is a terrible thing to do to vegetables.  They probably get jet-lagged, just like people.”  Now West’s authentic same-day farm to table approach produces many of the herbs, fruits and vegetables offered from these two restaurants.

The West Restaurants in Carlsbad craft their menus around nature in a three acre farm supervised by Executive Chef Eugenio Martignago shown in the greenhouse where seedlings are nurtured.

 “Right now, we are ready to pick artichokes, zucchini, brussel sprouts, cabbage, beets, onions, asparagus and all the other sides you see on our menu,” he enthused.

“We planted 50 trees this year like avocado, citrus and fruit.  We pick early in the morning and have that day’s crop ready by lunch. Our asparagus grows wild…the more that is picked, the more it comes back.  You never have to plant them again!”
Martignago revealed that for the steakhouse, he leaves the beautiful flower of the zucchini on the plant for show, and encourages diners to eat the flower.  “It is so good,” he exclaimed.

West Steak and Seafood has introduced “A Night with the Chef,” a dining adventure on Tuesday and Thursday nights.  Guests are invited to trust in the expertise of the chefs, who will design a 6 course prix fixe menu based on their hand-picked selections of seasonal ingredients from West Farm.

Guests will get to sample a range of produce to compliment fish, steak or chop; one of a kind, off the menu plates.  Reservations are required 3 days in advance at $95. per person, including wine pairings.  Call 760-930-9100, or visit www.weststeakandseafood.com.

Wine Bytes
PAON Restaurant in Carlsbad has a winemaker dinner Wed. June 19 from 6:15pm, featuring DAOU Vineyards and Winery of Paso Robles.  Special guest is Georges Daou.  $85. ea.  Call 760-729-7377 for an RSVP.

Join Toast Enoteca & Cucina in San Diego’s Gaslamp for an opera-paired 4 course wine dinner Thurs. June 20 at 7pm.  The wine is Alex Sotelo’s Cellars of Napa Valley. Call in to reserve at 619-269-4207.

SLO Wine Country, San Luis Obispo presents Roll Out the Barrels Weekend, Thurs. June 20 to Sun. June 23. Dinners in the wineries, and tours of the wineries with a passport on Sat. and Sun.  Check out all events at www.slowine.com.

The Terrace at Addison, the Grand Del Mar Resort, is the location for Flights of Wine Tasting Fri. June 21 from 5:30 to 7:30pm and every other Fri. through Aug. Price is $25. Details at 858-314-1996.

Encinitas Wine Merchants has two major winery pourings Fri. June 21, McPrice Myers and Bodega De Edgar plus over 20 wines available by the glass.  $20. pp.  Call 760-407-4265.

It’s “Mangia Bene” When Italians Throw a Party

by Frank Mangio
I knew it would be a memorable evening when I set first set foot inside the iconic Italian restaurant, Il Fornaio in Del Mar a short time ago.  The section for this special “Piemonte” dinner and wine pairing was one long banquet table with dozens of happy faces, face to face.

“Piemonte,” the Piedmont District of Northern Italy, is rich in culinary and wine history.  Its first recorded wines were made some 3,000 years ago. It’s the home of Barolo and Barbaresco, towns that became famous for making some of the finest traditional Italian wines.

Il Fornaio General Manager Mathew Galli and Batasiolo Wine Manager Stefano Poggi guided an Italian dinner and wine event in Del Mar.

But let’s give credit to the food first. Il Fornaio’s General Manager, the congenial Mathew Galli, followed Italiancustom with a five part harmony of food service:  Assaggini, Antipasti, Primi, Secondi and Dolce. Primi is always a pasta based dish and this time there were two: a risotto with scallops and a roasted butternut squash ravioli.  Secondi, the main entrée, was a roasted fish fillet plus a braised wild boar shoulder. Dolce, the dessert, was a hazlenut and amaretto chocolate custard.

And so it was “Mangia Bene,” the Italian phrase for “great eating.”  Of course great eating in Italy is always better with great wine and on this night, Batasiolo with its Barolo heavyweight was king,
although Batasiolo’s Barbera entry, served with risotto and the squash ravioli, won new fans with its medium bodied acidity and smooth flow though the palate. It’s perfect for light pasta dishes.

Barolo of course takes center stage, coming from the town of the same name, a small, tucked away district in Piedmont, perfect growing conditions for the native grape called Nebbiolo.  This is the backbone for Barolo and gives it the deep ruby red, spicy aroma.  It is often called the “King of Italian Wines” for a velvety but powerful taste.  It was served appropriately with the wild boar shoulder at the Il Fornaio Italian occasion.

Wine districts are tiny in Piedmont Italy, with Barolo being just 3 miles by 5 miles, but its fine

wines are known worldwide.

“Piemonte” means foot of the mountain and is the largest region in Italy, which has only been a unified country for 150 years. The terrain isso steep in most areas that it is far from being the largest producer of wine. But if only fine wines are counted, it is right up there with the Tuscany and Veneto areas.

For big, soul-warming wines, try the Batasiolo 2008 Barolo, the world’s leading producer of Barolo. ($45.)  Il Fornaio is continuing its “Festa Regionale” series with the food and wine of Calabria, now through March 17.  For more, go to www.ilfornaio.com.

2012 Great Year for Wine Sales in the U.S.
Wine Spectator reports that 325 million cases of wine were bought in 2012 in this country, 2% over last year and passing France as the world’s biggest wine market. Export sales were 1.4 Billion Dollars, with 90% of those sales coming from California. And the price of a bottle, on average, is moving up past $9. and above.

Gallo Winery’s President is quoted as saying “more than 15,000 U.S. citizens per day are reaching the legal drinking age,” along with a major shift toward wine consumption among younger drinkers.

Wine Bytes
Chandler’s Restaurant and Lounge overlooking the beach in Carlsbad, now has select half price wines on Tuesdays.  Lots of Sonoma and Napa Valley choices.  For details and RSVP’s call 760-683-5500.

San Diego Wine Company on Miramar Road has a Cabernet Tasting, Sat. March 9 from 11am to 4pm for just $10. Details at 858-586-WINE.

Bistro West in Carlsbad is presenting a Napa Valley Whitehall Lane Wine Dinner Tues. March 12 at 6:30pm.  $75. pp.  To reserve seating phone 760-930-8008.

A high-end Cabernet tasting is coming to Bacchus Wine Market downtown San Diego, Fri. March 15 from 4 to 8:30pm.  7 great tastes for $35.  More by calling 619-236-0005.

Europa Village in Temecula Wine Country brings guitarist Jimmy Patton in for a St Patrick’s Day concert, Sun. March17 from 1 to 4pm.  Free admission.  Try their green Sangria. Wear green for a  costume contest.  Details at 951-216-3380.

Bacchus Reigns in the Gaslamp District

by Frank Mangio

Bacchus is the God of Wine in Greek mythology. Also known as Dionysus, he represents the intoxicating power of wine, and its social and beneficial influences. He is also known as a liberator, bringing an end to care and worry.

Karen Kiser and Jeff Sullivan know well the extraordinary magic of the wine experience. Their Bacchus Wine Bar and Market in the Gaslamp District of Downtown San Diego casts a knowing atmosphere of the international charm of wine. It is an experience of discovery, with wine events twice weekly on Fridays and Saturdays. One week it could be Italy, next the Rhone Valley, then Chile and Argentina; or big Zinfandels and unusual grapes. Karin brings years of study and training to the Bacchus. Here is a true Wine Bar and Market in downtown San Diego that offers many wine discoveries.

“We offer something different and want the customer who wants to try something new,” she said. “As wines grow in popularity, we grow with that success. We look for a wine that is not a household name, but carefully choose one that has cultivated the highest quality while keeping case count under control.”

I asked her what she drinks at the end of the day. “It changes a lot. I have a wide-ranging palate. Right now, I’m on a Bordeaux kick but it could change next week when we do our next tasting. I may find a new favorite.”

I asked then if her customers still search around for value with a low price. “Not as much as last year,” she answered. “Our customers want to find a relationship with a great bottle of wine. Most of our wine events are offered with wines under $20. a bottle.” The event I attended was a Rhone-Style Blend Flight, with 7 beautiful wines for just $15.

Most wines reflecting this style were from the south of France, with my favorite being a 2009 Domaine des Escaravailles Cotes du Rhone with 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Carignan.($14.99)

Hours are Monday thru Saturday 12 to 9pm and Sunday 12 to 6pm. Call 619-236-0005. www.bacchuswinemarket.com.

Wine Spectator Restaurant Awards

The leading wine/food trade publication, Wine Spectator, just released its 2011 awards for their excellent wine programs.

The Addison at the Grand Del Mar was a Grand Award Winner, with Wine Sellar & Brasserie in San Diego.

Jesse Rodriguez is the Wine Director at Addison and Amaya Bistro at the Grand Del Mar, both 2011 award winners from Wine Spectator Magazine.

Other awards went to the following restaurants in San Diego: Acqua Al 2, San Diego, Amaya Bistro at the Grand Del Mar Bertrand’s at Mr. A’s San Diego, Clay’s La Jolla, Donovon’s Steak & Chop House San Diego, Mistral Coronado, Ruth’s Chris Steak House San Diego, Toast Enoteca & Cucina San Diego.

North San Diego County included: Argyle Steakhouse Carlsbad, West and Bistro West Carlsbad, Delicias Rancho Santa Fe, Firefly Grill and Wine Bar Encinitas, Firenze Trattoria Encinitas, Flavor Del Mar, Mille Fleurs Rancho Santa Fe, Pacifica Del Mar, Paradise Grille Del Mar, Sbicca Del Mar, Vivace Park Hyatt Carlsbad.

Wine Bytes

§ Viva Vino Tapas Wine Bar in Old Town Temecula has Dylan Carbonne and the Latin Connection Sat. Aug. 13, from 8 to 11pm. Thurs. is Salsa Night. $10. a lesson after 8pm. Phone 951-506-5953.

§ Sage Grill Encinitas presents d’Arenberg wines from Australia, matched up with a three course dinner Mon. Aug. 15. Cost is $59. RSVP at 760-943-7243.

§ Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido brings in Rudi Wiest, German wine expert, Sat. Aug. 13 from 2 to 4pm. RSVP at 760-745-1200. $10. charge.

§ San Diego State University resumes its schedule of extension wine classes with “Exploring Wine” Tuesdays starting Aug. 16 to Sept. 13 from 6 to 9pm on campus. The goal is the Business of Wine Professional Certificate. More at www.neverstoplearning.net/wine, or call 619-594-6924.

§ Rossi’s Pizza and Sports Bar in San Marcos has a Rotta Wine Dinner featuring owner Mike Giubbini, from Paso Robles, with award-winning Zinfandel and other wine varietals. The date is Sat. Aug. 20 starting at 5:30pm. Four course dinner with four Rotta special wines. Cost is $40. Call 760-727-4747 for an RSVP.