Mirth and Merriment at Dolce Pane E Vino

by Frank Mangio

Tucked away in a small shopping center in Rancho Santa Fe, Dolce Pane E Vino has this pixie-like atmosphere to it, to the point that I am always looking for Alice in Wonderland to sit next to me in the bar, ordering up one of those fabulous wines that are racked up throughout the wine bar and restaurant area.

Executive Chef John Weimann and General Manager Steve Flowers of Dolce Pane E Vino, a wine bar and small-bites restaurant in Rancho Santa Fe.

The room is at once cozy, beautiful and fascinating, with the charm of old-world Italy. Dolce Pane E Vino means sweet bread and wine in Italian and was created by Dr. Anthony Smith almost two years ago, but really hit its stride when Steve Flowers came in as General Manager, with his passion for world-class wine excellence. Details later, but I want to get into more of the “wow” architectural touches that blew me away.

A quick smile and a dose of merriment comes to all who snuggle into the family style tables that are crafted for sharing, and the lighting with Italian glass that drops down from the ceiling like so many fireflies.

OK, let’s get to what most customers come in for: spectacular cuisine and that specially selected, handcrafted wine that will keep you smiling.

Executive Chef John Weimann on selected menu creations: “my salad is a seared Hamachi fresh fish with arugula, orange and ginger vinaigrette mixed. On top, a sliced avocado with mixed citrus and fennel. Also fried shallot with Uzu Juice and house-made lemon oil.” Perfect.

GM Steve Flowers on the entrée: “ it’s a Wild King Salmon served on a cedar plank, wood fired in the open oven, garnished with sea salt and charred asparagus, drizzled with lemon and saba.” He went on about the wine selected…” a white Barola Bianca from Piedmont Italy, vintage 2009. It has crispy fruit that comes through the Italian style wine minerality.”

Two more reasons to get to know Dolce Pane E Vino. One is the imported artisan cheeses “to go” case, affectionately known as the “Formaggeria.” The 2nd is the exclusive membership Reserve 100. This wine program gives access to top-tier wines at great values from the top winemakers in the world. Every other month members will receive two bottles each of three ultra-fine wines with tasting notes, reviews and food-pairing ideas.

A typical recent trio of wines included: 2005 Col Solare Blend 94 points; 2007 O’Shaughnessy Howell Mountain Napa 95 points; and the 2007 Quintessa Rutherford Red Meritage 95 points. Make it into this wonderland of mirth and merriment by accessing www.dolcepaneevino.com or calling 858-832-1518.

Wine Bytes

San Diego County’s Restaurant Week is January 15 through 20 with over 180 restaurants offering a 3 course prix-fixe dinner menu ranging from 20. to 40. each. In my neighborhood, Encinitas, check out Bentley’s, Chart House, Ciccioti’s, Firefly, Firenze and Via Italia.

Il Forniao in Del Mar starts its 2012 Festa Regionale with the cuisine of Lombardia Italy, now through Jan. 15. Featured wine is a red, Castello di Luzzano with Malvasia grapes. Call 858-755-8876

PAON in Carlsbad has a Napa/Sonoma Tasting in its wine bar Jan. 12 to 18. 6 pours for $14. Call 760-729-7377 for times.

Exploring Italy is the wine tasting event theme for Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas Fri. Jan. 13 from 6 to 8pm. Cost is $20. Details at 760-479-2500.

Wine Styles in Encinitas has a jazz trio performing with a Super 6 Tasting Sat. Jan. 14 from 5 to 8pm. $12. pp. Call 760-633-0057.

Cabernet Franc from Around the World is planned for Sat. Jan. 14 from 2 to 8:30pm at Bacchus Wine Market in the Gaslamp San Diego. Cost is $20. Get the names at 619-236-0005.

Bacchus Reigns in the Gaslamp District

by Frank Mangio

Bacchus is the God of Wine in Greek mythology. Also known as Dionysus, he represents the intoxicating power of wine, and its social and beneficial influences. He is also known as a liberator, bringing an end to care and worry.

Karen Kiser and Jeff Sullivan know well the extraordinary magic of the wine experience. Their Bacchus Wine Bar and Market in the Gaslamp District of Downtown San Diego casts a knowing atmosphere of the international charm of wine. It is an experience of discovery, with wine events twice weekly on Fridays and Saturdays. One week it could be Italy, next the Rhone Valley, then Chile and Argentina; or big Zinfandels and unusual grapes. Karin brings years of study and training to the Bacchus. Here is a true Wine Bar and Market in downtown San Diego that offers many wine discoveries.

“We offer something different and want the customer who wants to try something new,” she said. “As wines grow in popularity, we grow with that success. We look for a wine that is not a household name, but carefully choose one that has cultivated the highest quality while keeping case count under control.”

I asked her what she drinks at the end of the day. “It changes a lot. I have a wide-ranging palate. Right now, I’m on a Bordeaux kick but it could change next week when we do our next tasting. I may find a new favorite.”

I asked then if her customers still search around for value with a low price. “Not as much as last year,” she answered. “Our customers want to find a relationship with a great bottle of wine. Most of our wine events are offered with wines under $20. a bottle.” The event I attended was a Rhone-Style Blend Flight, with 7 beautiful wines for just $15.

Most wines reflecting this style were from the south of France, with my favorite being a 2009 Domaine des Escaravailles Cotes du Rhone with 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Carignan.($14.99)

Hours are Monday thru Saturday 12 to 9pm and Sunday 12 to 6pm. Call 619-236-0005. www.bacchuswinemarket.com.

Wine Spectator Restaurant Awards

The leading wine/food trade publication, Wine Spectator, just released its 2011 awards for their excellent wine programs.

The Addison at the Grand Del Mar was a Grand Award Winner, with Wine Sellar & Brasserie in San Diego.

Jesse Rodriguez is the Wine Director at Addison and Amaya Bistro at the Grand Del Mar, both 2011 award winners from Wine Spectator Magazine.

Other awards went to the following restaurants in San Diego: Acqua Al 2, San Diego, Amaya Bistro at the Grand Del Mar Bertrand’s at Mr. A’s San Diego, Clay’s La Jolla, Donovon’s Steak & Chop House San Diego, Mistral Coronado, Ruth’s Chris Steak House San Diego, Toast Enoteca & Cucina San Diego.

North San Diego County included: Argyle Steakhouse Carlsbad, West and Bistro West Carlsbad, Delicias Rancho Santa Fe, Firefly Grill and Wine Bar Encinitas, Firenze Trattoria Encinitas, Flavor Del Mar, Mille Fleurs Rancho Santa Fe, Pacifica Del Mar, Paradise Grille Del Mar, Sbicca Del Mar, Vivace Park Hyatt Carlsbad.

Wine Bytes

§ Viva Vino Tapas Wine Bar in Old Town Temecula has Dylan Carbonne and the Latin Connection Sat. Aug. 13, from 8 to 11pm. Thurs. is Salsa Night. $10. a lesson after 8pm. Phone 951-506-5953.

§ Sage Grill Encinitas presents d’Arenberg wines from Australia, matched up with a three course dinner Mon. Aug. 15. Cost is $59. RSVP at 760-943-7243.

§ Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido brings in Rudi Wiest, German wine expert, Sat. Aug. 13 from 2 to 4pm. RSVP at 760-745-1200. $10. charge.

§ San Diego State University resumes its schedule of extension wine classes with “Exploring Wine” Tuesdays starting Aug. 16 to Sept. 13 from 6 to 9pm on campus. The goal is the Business of Wine Professional Certificate. More at www.neverstoplearning.net/wine, or call 619-594-6924.

§ Rossi’s Pizza and Sports Bar in San Marcos has a Rotta Wine Dinner featuring owner Mike Giubbini, from Paso Robles, with award-winning Zinfandel and other wine varietals. The date is Sat. Aug. 20 starting at 5:30pm. Four course dinner with four Rotta special wines. Cost is $40. Call 760-727-4747 for an RSVP.