Wining and Dining: the Latest from Temecula

by Frank Mangio
A short time ago, I was cruising my way through a lifestyle expo in Del Mar when I noticed a strikingly attractive hardcover book at a booth, “Temecula Wine Country-Your Ultimate Guide to the Best Wineries in Temecula.” It contained vivid pictures and text of the appellation, its estates, maps, wines and annual events.

Gia Lucy, the author, is a passionate travel writer from nearby San Clemente who fell in love with the rolling hills of Temecula Wine Country. This wine area is undergoing a surge in interest and growth, yet it retains the country-cool of family owned hospitality. I recommend you look in local book shops and access the web at www.gialucy.com. The phone number is 949-395-2878.

The recent Temecula 20th annual Harvest Celebration was a superb collaboration of the Winegrowers Association and member wineries that uncorked sample barrels for visitors to taste, as well as new release bottles.

At Mt. Palomar Winery, a location that will soon expand and renovate its facilities, the “barrel tender” was pouring two kinds of Sangiovese from the 2008 vintage: one stored in French Oak which gave it a vanilla, toasted hint with some coffee features. The 2nd choice was American Oak which suggested a cedar aroma, more domestic than European.

Other wines taste-tested were the ’07 Petite Sirah, a “sock it to me” peppery style wine, and an ’07 Cinsaut, a little known French Rhone varietal of strawberry and cinnamon flavors that I thought was the best of Mt. Palomar’s offerings.

On to Briar Rose with proprietors Dorian and Les Linkogle. I can always expect a surprise or two from these two hosts, and sure enough, library wines came out, including a 100 year old Port. But the most fun was reserved for the appearance of Bruce Kanegai who is one of the producers of the hit TV show, SURVIVOR. Briar Rose is known for sudden arrivals of Hollywood celebrities and Bruce and his entourage were no exception. The “blew-me –away” favorite wine here was the ’04 Cabernet Franc.

TASTE OF WINE columnist Frank Mangio with SURVIVOR TV Producer Bruce Kanegai and Briar Rose owner and Winemaker Les Linkogle.

Cougar Winery was next with Rick Buffington with his handcrafted, small lots of Italian style wine. Rick was offering a barrel-selected ’08 Full Monte, a Montepulciano di Abruzzo and his latest Sangiovese, the ’08. His Italian meatballs were a perfect soul food companion to the Italian lineup of reds.

In case you are wondering about Full Monte, it’s the name of his 8 week old Labrador Retriever wine puppy!

Danza Del Sol is the latest name on the growing list of Temecula wineries. It was formerly known as Filsinger. Bob Olson, the new owner, hired Mike Tingley from Keyways and the lineup has already won gold for its ’09 Chardonnay. He was also pouring some Rhone style reds: the ’08 Syrah (not yet released) and the ’08 Grenache with a strawberry/licorice flavor.

Speaking of things Mediterranean, try the new menu at the Pinnacle Restaurant, part of Falkner Winery. Ray and Loretta Falkner, working with Executive Chef Gianni Ciciliot, have an “eat healthy” selection that uses extensive olive oil, fruits and vegetables to enhance the entrees. Lunch is served daily from 11:30 to 3:30pm. See www.falknerwinery.com.

Wine Bytes
Baker& Olive in Encinitas is at Dolce Pane e Vino of Rancho Santa Fe Tues. Nov. 16 at 6pm for an Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar Pairing dinner. It’s a five-course dinner with 5 great wines to accompany. $65. pp. Reserve at 858-832-1518.

Bacchus Wine Market presents the latest Pinot Noir Fri. Nov. 26 from 4 to 8:30pm, in San Diego’s Gaslamp district. Cost is $20. More at 619-236-0005.

San Diego Wine Company has a Sparkling Wine and Champagne Tasting, Sat. Nov. 27, 11am, 12:30,, 2 and 3:30pm. Fee is $25. RSVP which time you want at 858-586-WINE.

Looking ahead, if you are heading up to Napa Valley, the city of Yountville is decking the halls and getting jolly with its Winterscape Celebration starting Wed. Dec. 1. Twinkling lights, carriage rides, public art and night hours for tasting rooms, for starters. Get the full story at www.yountville.com.

Four Southern California Winemakers That Are Making a Difference

by Frank Mangio
Southern California does so many things in such a big way. The rest of the world can only follow, and when trends catch on elsewhere, “SOCAL” is on to something else. People flock here to catch the trendy wave of opportunity.

Population has swelled to some 13 million in 5 counties, yet the big puzzle is why hasn’t the wine industry kept pace. After all, the first wine in the state was made in the 1700’s by the missionaries in San Diego. Now over 50 wineries operate in the county, mainly in Ramona and Julian. Temecula in Riverside County has 1300 acres planted in wine grapes and plans to create up to 5,000 more acres of “citrus/vineyards” in a protected zone. It is fast becoming Southern California’s Wine Country with easy access to over 30 wineries. Elsewhere, vineyards and wineries show up in such urban areas as Malibu, downtown Los Angeles, Rancho Cucamonga and Westlake Village.

If we look a little closer, we can find some competitive and dedicated professionals making high quality wines, mainly in San Diego and Riverside Counties. Here are four you’ll want to know.

Les Linkogle will be the first one to tell you that he makes only ultra premium handcrafted wines that are expensive, with some reds as good as any in the Valley. Tasting is by appointment only. That makes him a wine making contrarian and that is a label he will gladly wear over his heart. “We are very different and like to feel we are like those smaller, premium boutique wineries in Napa Valley,”he said. He and his wife Dorian opened the doors of Briar Rose Winery in 2007, converted it from a country cottage home built with the wistful imagination of a Disney builder in the 70’s who fashioned it from Snow White’s cottage.

Linkogle considers his wines “art in a bottle.” Discerning locals and even Hollywood celebrities caught on to the Briar Rose wine experience and soon orders for Briar Rose wines were coming from such diverse locations as the White House and the Playboy Mansion. His reds were gathering medals by the bushel, especially small batch, barrel enhanced Cabernets that are turning heads in the wine world. Linkogle is now the Southern District Director of the prestigious Wine Institute. You must try the wines, but keep in mind, you must also make a reservation. Call 951-308-1098. The website is www.briarrosewinery.com.

Ryan Baker cut his teeth in the wine industry in the Napa -Sonoma area before arriving at Witch Creek Winery, an urban operation in the tourist-friendly beach resort of Carlsbad. He makes mostly Mediterranean style wine in the tasting room, rarely over 200 cases, and the varietals sell out quickly. Grapes are brought in from northern California and the Guadalupe Valley in Baja, Mexico. A decision was made in 2009 to enter 7 varietals, including lesser known Italian wines sourced from the Guadalupe Valley, into the San Francisco International Wine Competition. All 7 took medals, including Witch Creek’s 2006 Nebbiolo that was awarded “Best of Class!”

Baker, who was a chemist before the epiphany and listening to the call of winemaking, calls his Nebbiolo as good as any Barolo or Barbaresco in Piedmont Italy. (those are the premium wines that are made from the Nebbiolo grape).

“Our 2007 Nebbiolo is released and the $30. price is way lower than the Italian style price. The Cellar Club price is just $21. The mouth-feel is rich and round with blueberry and blackberry notes,” he said. “I m constantly experimenting, trying new combinations and blends. You have to try my latest, Due Pastore, a combination of Brunello and Aglianico.” We did and we loved it. Access www.witchcreekwinery.com.

Jon McPherson, along with Assistant Winemaker Javier Flores, have put South Coast Winery on the state and national map by capturing the Gold Bear California State Fair award for best winery in the state two of the last three years. This year it earned 56 medals at the fair. “It’s about letting the grapes speak. We listen and then carefully nurture the process.” He planted grapes in Texas as a kid, helping his father in the wine industry, then came to Southern California, determined to make great sparkling wines. He got his chance in 1986 as winemaker in what is now known as Thornton Winery in Temecula.

The winery eventually earned the title of “America’s Most Honored Sparkling Wine Producer.” When South Coast opened in 2003, Jon saw the opportunity and joined the team. The Wild Horse Peak series, with estate fruit harvested from South Coast’s vineyard at nearby Palomar Mountain is the crown jewel, producing best-of-breed 2006 Sangiovese, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. See more at www.wineresort.com.

Justin Mund is a winemaker with swagger and self-confidence , like a quarterback in football that always wants the ball. He’s been a winemaker for 9 years, making a name for himself in Sonoma with Ferrari Carano, then in the Central Coast with Addamo. He has recently come to Orfila replacing a winemaker legend in the area, Leon Santoro, who had been in charge since the origins of Orfila in 1994. “My challenge is to continually improve the wines while keeping the style on track. My wines are fruit driven and clean,” he said. “I found a lot of ’07 and ’08 varietals in-barrel and bottled them all. I want the wine in bottles and out for sale 18 months to 2 years after harvest.”

I asked him about the unusual 2010 growing season and he answered “I loved it! It was a cool season in a hot climate. We’ll have great flavor and a lower sugar count, with more hang time. We’ll get the acid up and the wines will be more accented. There is great potential here at Orfila and I want to step up the quality and ratings with a fresher, fruit forward style and a shorter vintage with lower alcohol. They will be balanced,” he promised.

Southern California wines have pockets of tradition and greatness and deserve our attention. Serious, quality wines can make their place among the “wine countries” of California. The new kids on the block are growing up.

Wine Bytes
Bernardo Winery in Rancho Bernardo has its 33rd annual Fall Arts and Crafts Fair Sat. and Sun. Oct. 16 and 17. Over 140 artisans will be on hand from 10am to 4pm. Live music, wine and food available. Park on the grounds. More details at 858-487-1866.

Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido presents St Francis Winery Sat. Oct. 16 from 5 to 7pm. Big, bold Sonoma style wines will be tasted including Cabs, Merlots and Old Vine Zins. $10. pp. More at 760-745-1200.

Orfila Winery in Escondido starts Concerts in the Vines Sun Oct. 17 from 6:30 to 8:30pm. Latin jazz kicks it off. $15 for club members. $20. everyone else. Questions call 760-738-6500.

Girls Night Out parties rock on at Tesoro Winery Tasting Room in Old Town Temecula Fri Oct 22 from 7 to 10pm. $24. includes wine tasting, appetizers, chocolate fountain and a chance to wine a prize basket. Call 951-308-0000.

Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas is pouring Merlot Mania Fri Oct. 22 from 6 to 8pm. $20 ea. Check out the list at 760-599-1200.

It’s Cozy with the Piano Man at Mille Fleurs

by Frank Mangio
Every Wednesday through Saturday for the past 17 years at Mille Fleurs in Rancho Santa Fe, after-dinner guests and new arrivals with wine glass in-hand, gather around the grand piano for the unique talent and voice of Randy Beecher. “I started in May of 1993 and I’ve always loved the energy in this room,” he said, flashing that perpetual smile. “I try to read the room and what they might want to hear.”

Randy plays and sings it all, from show tunes to Motown to current pop music. I asked him if his romantic atmosphere has helped guests meet and date. “Oh yes,” he answered. “And, marriage proposals are made over my music.”
He credits owner Bertrand Hug and manager Julien Hug for recognizing his talent and staying with him and providing him with a stage for his music.

Randy Beecher is the piano man Wednesday through Saturdays at the popular Mille Fleurs in Rancho Santa Fe.

All this good-time entertainment is an entrée to a legendary restaurant dining and wine experience at Mille Fleurs. I suggest you start out at the bar and taste the house signature wines, especially the Tantara 2008s.

Bertrand is a Bordeaux Blend aficionado and his Cuvee Bertrand from Santa Barbara is one he blended himself ( $50.). The kitchen is governed by award-winning Chef de Cuisine Martin Woesle, who trained in Munich Germany, worked in Hollywood’s Ma Maison and has been at Mille Fleurs since 1985. He uses fresh vegetables, salads and other ingredients from the nearby Chino’s Farm. Mille Fleurs offers a Prix Fixe Menu as well as an entrée menu with about 12 choices including Five Light Mediterranean selections.

The Hugs also own Mister A’s, a historic rooftop restaurant on 5th Avenue downtown San Diego and have just purchased and renovated a restaurant on El Paseo in downtown Palm Desert, Augusta Modern. Learn more at www.millefleurs.com.

NEW BOOKS: Fine Wineries of Napa-Sonoma-Mendocino & Central Coast
Two beautifully bound wine books have appeared as a colorful visitors guide with profiles and color images of all the most glamorous wineries and vineyards in Napa Valley, Sonoma and Mendocino; and the 2nd book displaying wineries from Central Coast, including Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo and Paso Robles.

Wine traveler and publisher Tom Silberkleit is the master publisher behind this 4th edition of Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino, and the 1st edition of Central Coast Wineries. September is California Wine Month, celebrating the over 3,000 wineries that dot the state.

Silberkleit’s mission has been to do the on-site legwork to spotlight a number of excellent choices for the weekend traveler. The 160 page Napa-Sonoma-Mendocino edition alone has over 200 color images and profiles of 69 wineries with features and directions on each. The retail price is $19.95 hardcover and available at leading bookstores and Amazon.com. Be sure to explore their website at www.Californiafinewineries.com

Wine Bytes
Bernardo Winery in Rancho Bernardo has Jazz on the Patio, 2 to 5pm Sundays. On Sept. 26 Jimmy and Enrique with guitar and percussion, and Oct. 3rd it’s the Peter Sprague Trio. For details call 858-487-1866.

Ponte Winery in Temecula has its 8th annual Grape Stomp Festival Sun. Sept. 26, from 4 to 9pm. Competition, dancing, live music and a buffet dinner for $95. pp. Wine club members $86. And of course lots of Ponte wines to taste are included. Order tickets at 951-694-8855.

South Coast Winery Resort and Spa has two exciting events: The Blessing of the Wine, Grape Stomp and Harvest from 4 to 7pm Sun. Sept. 26 with a BBQ, contests, live music and dancing. Reserve tickets at 951-587-9463; and a Jazz concert by the great Kenny G on Sat. Oct. 2 with show time at 8pm. Doors open at 5pm, dinner at 6:30pm. Tiered ticket prices, starting as low as $55. Check out the website www.rythmonthevine.org. Or call Ticket Master at 800-745-3000.

VR Green Farms at the Bella Colina Golf Course in San Clemente has an authentic Roman Encampment Sun. Sept. 26 from 11 to 3pm.Experience Roman Legion costumes, music, customs and language. $10. ea. Food and drink available for $55. RSVP for more information at 949-697-0032.

Briar Rose Winery in Temecula presents Barrie Lynn, the Beverly Hills Times Cheese Empresario Sat. Oct. 2 at 6pm, for an Artisanal Cheese and Wine Pairing Adventure and Class. Taste acclaimed and library award winning wines paired with international cheeses, to perfection. Cost is $45. RSVP at 951-308-1098.

"Wine Girl" Hits the Book Signing Circuit

Janene Roberts, (aka Wine Girl in several blogs, including this one) recently took delivery on her new book "Guide to Wine Tasting in Southern California and Beyond". This is the third edition of the popular guide to wine and wineries, that Janene has put together for learned wine lovers, as well as neophytes.

Wine Girl is making at least one appearance a week at local restaurants. book stores, wine lounges, etc. to offer her (signed) book, chat with folks, and exchange notes about wine and venues that may be considered for her next issue. This edition includes around $100 worth of money saving offers and discounts, not to mention the time and frustration saved by avoiding wine and wine places that may not be good for your budget (or palate).

You can check Janene's website for upcoming appearances (www.PopCornPressMedia.com)or order a copy of her book for just $15.95.

Janene Roberts (right) with Dorian Linkogle, owner of Briar Rose Winery in Temecula Wine Country. Dorian recently co-sponsored a book signing party for Janene, at Decanter Wine Lounge in Rancho Santa Fe.


Janene Roberts, author of Guide to Wine Tasting in Southern California and wine Beyond, is signing new books and comparing wine and food notes with friends at various locations around southern California.

More on Temecula Valley Wines…

by Frank Mangio
Awards keep coming in for the wines of Temecula Wine Country. Examples:

 Double Gold and Chairman’s Award at the ’09 Riverside Wine competition for Maurice Car’rie’s 2008 Sara Bella Blush, a white Cabernet Sauvignon. The winery also got Silver for their ’08 Chenin Blanc and ’08 Riesling. See more at www.mauricecarriewinery.com.

 La Cereza picked up eight medals at the same competition, including a gold for its “Girlfriends” white blend. Visit www.lacerezawinery.com

 Best of Class at the West Coast Wine Competition in Santa Rosa went to Keyways Winery for its ’08 Chenin Blanc and the ’08 White Blend Santa Teresa. More at www.keywayswine.com.

 I was privileged to get an initial release taste of the new Wilson Creek ’07 Viognier, a varietal favorite of mine. It is right up there with the best of the best for this Rhone Valley grape varietal. Brilliantly crafted by winemaker Etienne Cowper, this tropically fruited, exotic wine should not be missed by fans of a summer wine that pops. Bursting with flavor. Check it out at www.wilsoncreekwinery.com.

 Two Best of Class emerged from the Monterey and Pacific Rim competition….Briar Rose with its ’04 Cabernet Sauvignon and South Coast Winery with its ’07 Riesling.


Wine Bytes
 Four San Diego wineries have banded together for a “Passport to a Taste of San Diego.” For just $20. you can visit Hacienda de las Rosas, Orfila, Belle Marie and Bernardo Winery, each with a full wine tasting experience. Go to any of the wineries to purchase. Use until Labor Day in Sept.

 Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas has a Rhone Valley wine tasting Fri. May 29 and a Stars of Spain tasting on Fri. June 5. 6 to 8pm. Call 760-479-2500 for cost and wines.

 The Rotary Club presents the annual Encinitas Wine Festival, Sat. June 6 from 5 to 8pm, at Quail Botanical Gardens. Sample fine wines and beverages from around the world plus dishes and desserts from the finest restaurants in Encinitas. The event benefits local charities. Three ticket options from $100. Look at www.encinitaswinefestival.com.

 Up in Napa, the Vintners Association of 350 members brings you Auction Napa Valley Thurs. June 4 to Sun. June 7. Lots of ways to have a unique and fun time with tastings, auctions and dinners. Look at www.napavintners.com, or call 707-968-4209.

 The Temecula Balloon and Wine Festival takes off Fri. June 5 to Sun June 7 at Lake Skinner in the Winchester area. Mass balloon ascension begins Sat. at 6am. 20 wineries in Temecula will be pouring. 2 day passes for $30. Call 951-676-6713.

A Rose in Temecula Wine Country

article and photo by Frank Mangio

About a year or so ago a new winery emerged at an out-of-the-way location in Temecula Wine Country, operated by a husband and wife team, Dorian and Les Linkogle. They called their winery Briar Rose. Since opening their doors, this fascinating winery has made great strides in leaping forward with lovely, quality wines in small batches that command respect in the premium market.

I asked Les if he was comfortable with the description of Briar Rose as a cult winery, with a different, contrarian approach to making and presenting his wines.

“Oh yes,” he responded. “We are very different and like to feel we are like those smaller, premium boutique wineries in Napa. We follow our palate! Sure, in areas like PH and alcohol level we follow the rules, but in all the other dynamics of winemaking, we want wines with their own personality and characteristics. I’ve been making wine 12 years now and have found that great wines take a lot of work. They have to be handcrafted with the highest quality grapes and the best barrels. I use my own methods which can be contrary to anyone else in the valley,” he said confidently.


Photo:Les and Dorian Linkogle of Briar Rose Winery in Temecula Wine Country, producers of ultra premium handcrafted wines.

“I do straight varietals, like Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot, which no one else around here touches, Cab Franc, some Malbec and Sangiovese.” His small batch, barrel enhanced Cabs are what are turning heads in the wine world. Les and Dorian brought their wines by invitation to a white house Library of Congress dinner for world leaders, where they got to meet the President Bush and Vice President Cheney, including a 1997 Cab that sells for $350. a bottle. They have poured wines at their European cottage style tasting room for Jay Leno and other wine-wise celebrities who have caught on to the special qualities of Briar Rose wines.

Not one to rest, Les is constantly creating. “I’m working on a wine lager made with beer yeast that actually has a head on it, with 12% alcohol. It’s possibly going into sports stadiums.” He also has a white wine that combines Viognier grapes with lemon skins that he calls Citronier. It’s an estate wine harvested in 2007, and he advises drinking it with ice. It’s available for $20. His cabs start at $46. for a 2004, club prices.

The winery is on 23 acres with 18 acres of vineyards and is open for tasting by appointment only with 14 varietals. As Dorian says, “it’s not just a wine tasting at Briar Rose, it’s a wine experience.” Call 951-308-1098. www.briarrosewinery.com.

Salerno Winery of Ramona Now Selling in COSTCO
Cheers for Salerno Winery in Ramona, run by Herman and Rose Salerno and their General Manager Angelo Abril as they have their wines in most COSTCO locations in San Diego County. Herman, a trained opera singer from Italy and a winemaker of many years, is now appearing on selected dates at COSTCO, signing bottles and promoting his lovely Petite Sirah, Barbera, blends and ports.

Salerno winery also has a closeout special on the beautiful 2004 Inspiration, a gold medal winner of petite sirah and ruby cab that is being deeply discounted at 50% off the retail price for a limited time only. Call Angelo at 760-504-1274 for orders of 6 bottles or more.www.salernowinery.com.

Wine Bytes
North County Wine Company in San Marcos is pouring “Nothing But Racy Blends” on Sat. Nov. 15, including 5 hearty wines from Napa, Lake County, Chile, Sonoma and Argentina. 6 wines for $10. Call 760-744-2119 for details.

Falkner Winery in Temecula is holding a Wine Appreciation class Sat. Nov. 15 from 10:30am to 2:30pm. George Myers, the in-house sommelier is doing the teaching. Cost is $45. pp. Call 951-676-8231 for more.

The Wine Loft in Carlsbad is serving Wines for Thanksgiving at its Sun. Nov. 16 tasting. From 3pm to 6pm. 10% discount on wines you’ve tasted that you wish to purchase. $20. fee. Call 760-944-1412.

Wine Street in Carlsbad is planning an adventure in Spanish wines Fri. Nov. 21 from 4pm to 7:30pm with new releases and special guest Rory McMahon of Adventures in Wine. $15. fee. Details at 760-431-8455.

Eli’s Wine & Food in the Del Mar Highlands Center opens premium champagnes for tasting on Sat. Nov. 15 2pm to 5pm. The lineup includes Dom Perignon 2000, Krug Cuvee, Veuve Cliquot and more. $20, fee. Phone Eli’s at 858-481-2323.

Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido has a Cakebread Cellars tasting on Thurs. Nov. 20 5:30 to 7:30pm, with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cab and Merlot. $25. pp. advance, $30. at the door. Call 760-745-1200 x 228.

Meet Delia Peju of Peju Wines in Napa at Vino 100 in San Marcos, Fri Nov. 14 & Sat. Nov. 15 from 5-9pm. Her great wines will be tasted for a $15. fee. 760-591-9113.

Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator. Reach him at mangiompc@aol.com.