Is Sangiovese the Greatest Grape?

by Frank Mangio

As most of my readers know, I will be leading a small group of wine aficionados through Tuscany, Italy during the harvest of its signature grape, Sangiovese.

Tuscany is a maze of different microclimates with 7 distinct districts. It’s like you placed all the major wine making areas in California in a tight cluster with their own climactic kingdoms, all growing Sangiovese.

A farm near Siena Tuscany that makes Sangiovese with an ancient press and oversize straw bottles.

Italy itself is a vast garden of grape varietals with over 2,000 native wine grapes that came from a longhistory of settlers from other lands that brought their vines with them to plant in this wine paradise. Today, Italy is the largest producer and exporter of wine in the world, with the U.S. its largest importer. But big is not the Sangiovese story. Growers on average farm on just 2.5 acres and operate old-world equipment with historic techniques as shown in the photo of the wagon, storage jugs and press.

The American appetite for Tuscan Chianti reached its peak in the 60’s when, wrapped in quaint, ubiquitous straw bottles, it was the darling of mindeless wine drinkers. Tuscany was churning out wines that were watered-down with little regard for quality.

When California Italians emerged as the new world quality wine makers , old world Italy had to dramatically change for the better, and they did. The government, with the cooperation of the larger wineries, raised the standards to the highest quality possible and by the late 1970’s the revolution to fine wine was well under way.

Leading wineries, for the first time, were allowed to blend their wines and called them “Super Tuscans.” Antinori was the first with his Tignanello, a wine of 85% Sangiovese, with the balance of Cabernet and Cab Franc. Piero Antinori is the wine “maestro” that I studied under with a Wine Spectator video course where I earned my Wine Connoisseur certification. “I feel a special bond with Tignanello,” he is fond of saying. “It represents a major point of departure for my winery, my family and I, and sparked the beginning of the Italian wine renaissance.”

Other world-class Sangiovese based wines that I recommend are: Banfi Wines Summus, a fine wine blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet and Syrah in the Montalcino estate and Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino, a Sangiovese clone aged for 4 years; Fontodi Chianti Classico with 100% Sangiovese, a classic Tuscan wine; Barone Ricasoli Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico, from a family that dates back to the 11th century. Franceso Ricasoli is credited with working with the Italian government on higher standards for Sangioivese wines, that became Chianti Classico. All these classic Tuscan wines give us rich notes of black berry fruit, earthiness, the high grades of minerality, excellent food friendly acidity and silky tannins that benchmark all Sangiovese wines.

Sangiovese’s name comes from early Roman Empire times. The literal translation means “the blood of Jove”- the Roman version of Jupiter.

The blood of Sangiovese ran thick in Italian immigrants as they flooded California in the late 19th century. The early Seghesio family is credited with growing it in Sonoma, the first in California.

A rising star in Tuscany is Agricola Fontanelle with the three Rosati bothers that contribute to Sangiovese-based wines that are turning heads. They also cultivate high quality olive oil and an “heirloom” breed of pig. They use small oak barrels and age the wines for 24 months. The best example now released is the 2007 Ri.Va.Le. Chianti ( $15.) distributed through Quigley Fine Wines in San Diego.

Today, two California wineries produce Sangiovese wines to try: Niner Wine Estates in Paso Robles and their 2008 vintage ( $24.) with winemaker Amanda Cramer. It packs a strawberry taste with a touch of spice and lovely acidity that mates with Italian hard cheese.

At South Coast Winery, master winemaker Jon McPherson makes his Sangiovese in the hills of Temecula with a style more like Brunello. The current release is still 2006 ( $34.). Age and French Oak barrels are key to the refined acidity of this Sangiovese.

Is Sangiovese the greatest grape? It’s worth a glass or two to find out for yourself.

Wine Bytes

San Diego Wine & Culinary Center has a Caymus & Groth Wines Tasting Fri. July 29 from 6 to 9pm in cooperation with Alternative Wines. $45. pp. with finger foods. Call 619-231-6400 for an RSVP.

Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido has a Frank Family Wines event Sat. July 30 from 2 to 4pm. Fee of $10.in advance. For your glass call 760-745-1200.

Pala Mesa Resort in Fallbrook is offering half-off Fallbrook Wines by the glass or bottle on Fridays. The Food and Beverage Director recommends the Syrah. Call 760-731-6806.

Stuart Cellars in Temecula Wine Country welcomes the 7th annual Futures Barrel Tasting event Sat. July 30, 6:30 to 10pm. Sample 10 wines plus gourmet food for $70. RSVP at 951-676-6414.

Enjoy a gourmet Winemaker Dinner at Orfila Winery Escondido Thurs. Aug. 4 from 6 to 8pm. $85. pp. Details at 760-738-6500 x22.

La Costa Wine Company presents its Cakebread Wine Tasting Fri. Aug. 5 from 5 to 8pm. Cost is $25. Call 760-431-8455.

Gondola Wine Parties Dock at Loews Coronado

Photo and Article by Frank Mangio
In Venice , the gondola has been the most romantic symbol in all of Italy . Handsome men in striped shirts and pie hats, take couples along the maze of canals in long, black, sleek boats. They steer the gondolas and croon Italian love songs, breaking out a bottle of Chianti, with cheese and bread.

The magic and tradition of the gondola is as near as Coronado Island San Diego, on the docks of Loews Resort and Hotel. It may not have the centuries-old villas and cathedrals, but it does have San Diego ’s lovely weather and clear skies, virtually assuring a relaxing journey and romantic adventure.

A closer look at the Gondola Company’s version of gondola rides shows that it can be an even more attractive feature than the originals in Venice .

Wine sommelier Kirt Kirschenman leads a Party Gondola Wine Tasting Cruise, with several scheduled tastings through the summer that weaves its way around the many canals of Coronado Cays. He presents six favorite wines with complimentary chocolate covered strawberries that enhance the flavor of the offerings.

Sean Jamieson, the captain of this whimsical evening, navigates a double size gondola that can seat up to 14, while Kirschenman opens six lovely wines. They were Mediterranean varietals on the evening I covered the event. Standouts were: 2008 Benvolio Pinot Grigio white from Fruili ( 8.99 ), 2005 San Alejandro Las Rocas red from Spain (8.99) and 10 year old Quinta do Noval Tawny Port from Portugal ( 28.99). The port was laced with nutty, coffee-like notes, snuggled up to a roasted cherry-like nose with raisins and spice. Definitely a nautical favorite that night.

Wine sommelier Kirt Kirschenman opens a Quinta do Noval 10 year old Tawny Port at Loews Gondola Wine Party Cruises.

A gondola cruise can be tailored to the occasion, from the signature “Passaporto” (85. for two) to the “Fleet Cruise” for large groups on as many as 6 gondolas ( $25. per person). For reservations and information, contact the office at 619-429-6317. Web access is www.gondolacompany.com.

Wines of the Danube

One of the exhilarating benefits of tasting wines in lesser- known parts of the world is the hunt and discovery of distinguished wine countries, like Austria . This part of the world has rewarded me in the past with its fantastic scenery, music and centuries-old architecture. I am just now learning about the warmth and purity of its white wines.

The Wachau region on the banks of the Danube River and west of Vienna makes wines that are layered with cool minerality and are nicely acidic. The grapes are Gruner Vetliner and Riesling and are picked from steep vineyards, grown on terraces high above the Danube , never more than a half mile from its banks. The wines are not cheap: range is from $25. to 70. You get a combination of power, elegance and a cool character with pure fruit. Austrian wines are world-class. Try the 2006 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling, or the 2006 Emmerich Knoll Gruner Veltliner.

Wine Bytes

§ The next Venetian Party Boat Wine Tasting in Coronado (see story above) will be Fri. June 26 from 7:30 to 9pm . $45. pp. Sommelier Kirt Kirschenman has six bottles of his favorites he will taste with you. Call 619-429-6317.

§ The 2nd annual Wine & A Bite Art Walk series is Sat. June 20, 5-7pm in downtown Fallbrook. Food from six popular Fallbrook restaurants. $20. pp in advance, $25. day of the event. For ticket info call 877-451-3282.

§ Eli’s Food and Wine in Del Mar presents the newest wines from the Napa Valley ’s legendary ZD Winery, Sat. June 20 from 3 to 5pm. Just $10. Call 858-481-2323.

§ North County Wine Company in San Marcos has a couple of powerhouse wine events coming this month: Fri. the 19th for Big Juicy Reds and Fri. the 26th for Summer Whites. Event runs from 5 – 8pm. $10. pp. Call for details at 760-744-2119.

§ Island Prime Restaurant on Harbor Island San Diego presents a Tasting and Seminar of Pinot Noirs from Around the World, Sat. June 20 from 12 noon to 2pm . Learn about the Pinot grape with a hands-on workshop to include hosted hors d’oevres. Cost is $30. RSVP by e mailing: Maurice@islandprime.com.

§ San Diego Wine Company on Miramar Blvd. San Diego has an all-Italian tasting on Sat. June 20 from 11-4:30pm . Just $10. On Sat. June 27, they have an all-German tasting. Same price.

§ South Coast Winery Resort and Spa jazzes up the winery with “Rhythm on the Vine,” Sat. June 27 starring singing great Jeffrey Osborne, Kirk Whalum and Gerald Albright. Benefits Shriners Hospitals for Children. Gates open at 5pm. Admission starts at $55. Check the web site for more: www.wineresort.com.

Great Chef Award Winner Leads Pala Mesa Upgrade

Article and Photo by Frank Mangio

Homemade recipes, high quality ingredients and management/leadership skills are driving Pala Mesa Resort in Fallbrook to a new level of dining with its revamped Aqua Terra Restaurant.

Executive Chef Sean Sullivan has placed his hand on a lovely restaurant format that underlines seafood and fine wines. It hasn’t been too long since his graduation from the School of Culinary Arts in Denver in 1998 and he’s been running kitchens ever since. From Italian, Asian Fusion and Latin Fusion and a top seafood operation in Pacific Beach, Sean has bundled his skills to be the executive chef that he is today.

When he got to Aqua Terra, Sean added a sushi bar and a menu that shows cuisine from around the globe. He has a great time in the kitchen. I recommend the Shrimp Stuffed Artichokes for an appetizer, a beet and goat cheese salad with baby Arugula and for the entrée, a vanilla scented Chilean Seabass is sure to please.

Executive Chef Sean Sullivan relaxes in his newly upgraded Aqua Terra Restaurant at Pala Mesa Resort in Fallbrook.

The wine menu needs more selections but I found a brilliantly crafted Zinfandel selection from Clos LaChance, a Central California wine from 2005, with a rare 12.5% alcohol. The lower alcohol content allowed it to pair beautifully with the fish and beef menu selections. I thought so much of it, the wine became one of the Top Ten Wine Tastings for 2008.

Pala Mesa has a Wine Appreciation Club top heavy with member benefits including: six wine tasting events per year, discounted wines and wine dinner events and other unique offerings. Food and Beverage Director Kevin Poorbaugh has crafted this special wine club to feature the most rewards available for the wine aficionado.
The resort is a great escape with its oversized guest rooms, golf and country environment. For more, phone 760-728-5881 or access www.palamesa.com.

Wine and the Economy
Although it’s true that wine and other spirits are somewhat resistant to the bad economy, and sales have held up when other consumption has faltered, some cracks have started to show. Wine shops and wineries have noted slumping “traffic” and high end wine sales slipping.

The Wall Street Journal’s wine columnists Gaiter and Brecher headlined their latest column “It’s a Great Time for Bargain Priced Wines.” The first one they listed was a 2005 Sicilian Nero D’Avola from Rossetti for under $10. I heartily agreed with that choice.

On their websites, some vineyards are spotlighting “One Day Sales Alerts” with free shipping for quantities, so you may want to “Google up” some of your favorites. Locally, wine shops are sending out e-mails on store-wide discounts.
One even had a sale celebrating the “repeal of prohibition” even though that event occurred 75 years ago!

Wine Bytes
A Zinfandel tasting is the feature at Bacchus Wine Market downtown San Diego Fri. Jan. 16 from 4 to 8:30pm. Zins are from: Napa Valley, Sonoma, Paso, Lodi and the Central Coast. $15. pp. Call 619-236-. 0005.

Wine Spot in Carlsbad and five domestic and Italian Sangiovese, Barbera, Primitivo and Pinot Grigios to pour Fri. Jan. 16 to Sun. Jan. 18 from 12 to 9pm. $20. charge. Call 760-434-9463.

Vino 100 in San Marcos spotlights blends, both red and white Fri. Jan. 16 and Sat. Jan 17. Taste Meritages, Bordeauxs and Clarets. $15. pp. Details by calling 760-591-9113.

Firefly in Encinitas brings in the legendary Darioush wines from Napa Valley to pair with his fine dining, on Wed. Jan. 21.

A Soups & Stews Cooking Class begins the 2009 series at Thornton Winery in Temecula Wine Country, Thurs. Jan. 22 starting at 6:30pm. Emphasis will be on the relationships between food and wine. This is hands-on and learn and try. Reservations at 951-699-0099 or on-line at www.thorntonwine.com.

Bene vive!