Is Sangiovese the Greatest Grape?

by Frank Mangio

As most of my readers know, I will be leading a small group of wine aficionados through Tuscany, Italy during the harvest of its signature grape, Sangiovese.

Tuscany is a maze of different microclimates with 7 distinct districts. It’s like you placed all the major wine making areas in California in a tight cluster with their own climactic kingdoms, all growing Sangiovese.

A farm near Siena Tuscany that makes Sangiovese with an ancient press and oversize straw bottles.

Italy itself is a vast garden of grape varietals with over 2,000 native wine grapes that came from a longhistory of settlers from other lands that brought their vines with them to plant in this wine paradise. Today, Italy is the largest producer and exporter of wine in the world, with the U.S. its largest importer. But big is not the Sangiovese story. Growers on average farm on just 2.5 acres and operate old-world equipment with historic techniques as shown in the photo of the wagon, storage jugs and press.

The American appetite for Tuscan Chianti reached its peak in the 60’s when, wrapped in quaint, ubiquitous straw bottles, it was the darling of mindeless wine drinkers. Tuscany was churning out wines that were watered-down with little regard for quality.

When California Italians emerged as the new world quality wine makers , old world Italy had to dramatically change for the better, and they did. The government, with the cooperation of the larger wineries, raised the standards to the highest quality possible and by the late 1970’s the revolution to fine wine was well under way.

Leading wineries, for the first time, were allowed to blend their wines and called them “Super Tuscans.” Antinori was the first with his Tignanello, a wine of 85% Sangiovese, with the balance of Cabernet and Cab Franc. Piero Antinori is the wine “maestro” that I studied under with a Wine Spectator video course where I earned my Wine Connoisseur certification. “I feel a special bond with Tignanello,” he is fond of saying. “It represents a major point of departure for my winery, my family and I, and sparked the beginning of the Italian wine renaissance.”

Other world-class Sangiovese based wines that I recommend are: Banfi Wines Summus, a fine wine blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet and Syrah in the Montalcino estate and Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino, a Sangiovese clone aged for 4 years; Fontodi Chianti Classico with 100% Sangiovese, a classic Tuscan wine; Barone Ricasoli Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico, from a family that dates back to the 11th century. Franceso Ricasoli is credited with working with the Italian government on higher standards for Sangioivese wines, that became Chianti Classico. All these classic Tuscan wines give us rich notes of black berry fruit, earthiness, the high grades of minerality, excellent food friendly acidity and silky tannins that benchmark all Sangiovese wines.

Sangiovese’s name comes from early Roman Empire times. The literal translation means “the blood of Jove”- the Roman version of Jupiter.

The blood of Sangiovese ran thick in Italian immigrants as they flooded California in the late 19th century. The early Seghesio family is credited with growing it in Sonoma, the first in California.

A rising star in Tuscany is Agricola Fontanelle with the three Rosati bothers that contribute to Sangiovese-based wines that are turning heads. They also cultivate high quality olive oil and an “heirloom” breed of pig. They use small oak barrels and age the wines for 24 months. The best example now released is the 2007 Ri.Va.Le. Chianti ( $15.) distributed through Quigley Fine Wines in San Diego.

Today, two California wineries produce Sangiovese wines to try: Niner Wine Estates in Paso Robles and their 2008 vintage ( $24.) with winemaker Amanda Cramer. It packs a strawberry taste with a touch of spice and lovely acidity that mates with Italian hard cheese.

At South Coast Winery, master winemaker Jon McPherson makes his Sangiovese in the hills of Temecula with a style more like Brunello. The current release is still 2006 ( $34.). Age and French Oak barrels are key to the refined acidity of this Sangiovese.

Is Sangiovese the greatest grape? It’s worth a glass or two to find out for yourself.

Wine Bytes

San Diego Wine & Culinary Center has a Caymus & Groth Wines Tasting Fri. July 29 from 6 to 9pm in cooperation with Alternative Wines. $45. pp. with finger foods. Call 619-231-6400 for an RSVP.

Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido has a Frank Family Wines event Sat. July 30 from 2 to 4pm. Fee of $10.in advance. For your glass call 760-745-1200.

Pala Mesa Resort in Fallbrook is offering half-off Fallbrook Wines by the glass or bottle on Fridays. The Food and Beverage Director recommends the Syrah. Call 760-731-6806.

Stuart Cellars in Temecula Wine Country welcomes the 7th annual Futures Barrel Tasting event Sat. July 30, 6:30 to 10pm. Sample 10 wines plus gourmet food for $70. RSVP at 951-676-6414.

Enjoy a gourmet Winemaker Dinner at Orfila Winery Escondido Thurs. Aug. 4 from 6 to 8pm. $85. pp. Details at 760-738-6500 x22.

La Costa Wine Company presents its Cakebread Wine Tasting Fri. Aug. 5 from 5 to 8pm. Cost is $25. Call 760-431-8455.

Go West for a Harvest of Fresh Food & Fine Wines

by Frank Mangio
It was billed as Oktober West and the celebration was on to toast the harvest of the West Steak and Seafood Carlsbad Organic Farm. I was greeted at the tented entrance by a smiling group, no actually a happy-to-see-you family: owners, management, an executive chef, kitchen and wait help, all with a big contribution to this amazing world-class rustic farm-to-table feast. They included the other two hospitality favorites Bistro West and West Inn & Suites.

All were excited about Executive Chef Eugenio Martignago’s six generous food and wine pairings on this sun–filled fall day. The small bites offerings included: red and gold beets napoleon layered with truffle goat cheese, baby greens tossed with basil, pesto and balsamic honey glaze. Then there was coconut shrimp with mango and horseradish cocktail sauce. But the two that made my day were: butternut squash ravioli with prosciutto, zucchini flowers, cherry tomatoes, fresh sage and white wine sauce; and New York steak pomodoro with asiagio cheese, garlic and basil.
Part of the management team at West: left to right, Linda Fietz Eugenio Martignago, Tom Bertrand, Alex Sadeghee, Kristine Bane, Kim Akers and Jason Connolly.


Chef Eugenio did not disappoint with his selection of wines. The stand-out was Banfi of Montalcino Tuscany and its value selection, Centine. This is a beautifully crafted Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot, blended to produce a smooth, fragrantly satisfying wine with Italian character. Banfi dates back to the 11th century when it was known as Castello di Poggio alle Mura. It has been owned by the Mariani Family since 1978 and officially known as Castello Banfi with 7,100 acres.
For more on West, check out www.weststeakandseafood.com, and www.bistrowest.com.

Wines to Know for the Holidays
The excitement is building at the biggest wine trade publication in the world, Wine Spectator. They have revealed 4 or their top ten wines for 2010. They have reviewed nearly 16,000 wines from all over the world in blind tastings. 3,900 received classic or 90 + ratings. Spectator observed an increase in expensive, limited production wines. Average price of the top 100 is $48.
Here are the number 10 through 6 rated wines:

10: Clos des Papes, Chateaneuf-du-Pape White 2009. France. $100.

9: CARM, Douro Reserva, Red 2007. Portugal. $27.

8: Fontodi, Coli della Toscana, Flacianello, Sangiovese Red. 2007. Italy. $110.

7. Schild, Shiraz Barossa, Red 2008. Australia. $20.

6. Paul Hobbs, Pinot Noir Russian River Valley, Red 2008. Sonoma. $45.

Next week I will reveal the rest of the top ten, plus my recent picks in over 70 tastings I have attended since my last “favorites” column in September.

Banfi Honored as Italy's Top Winery

by Frank Mangio
Castello Banfi, the anchor to the worldwide Banfi Vintners, has been honored again as Italy’s top winery at the annual VinItaly wine fair in Verona, Italy. An international panel, through rigorous blind wine tasting, awarded Banfi Italy’s “Gran Menzione,” the equivalent of the gold medal. It is the 12th time in 17 years that Castello Banfi has been declared Italy’s best winery.

Three generations of the Mariani Family have built Banfi Vintners into a world-wide name in imported wines, from the original Castello Banfi in Tuscany, to other properties in Europe, South America and the new Chateau Tanunda in Australia.

The founders of Banfi Vintners are ( front left to right)
John and Harry Mariani. Present family proprietors are ( upper left to right) Cristina Mariani-May and James Mariani.

The original winery was established in 1978 when John and Harry Mariani purchased 7,100 acres within several vineyards at the base of Montalcino, a medieval village rising 600 meters from the valley floor.

Brunello, a premium clone of the Sangiovse grape of Chianti fame, is their signature wine. The “Castello” is a Romanesqe fortress, masterfully restored as a hospitality center, formal restaurant, taverna, enoteca, glass museum and recently opened five star “ Il Borgo” villas, with luxury rooms and suites.

Names to know in the Banfi family of wines include: Rosa Regale, a festive sparkling wine from Piemonte, perfect as an aperitif when chilled; Don Melchor from Concho Y Toro, Chile’s ultimate Cabernet; and shown in the photo, the Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino, the 100% Sangiovese with a production process of nearly four years plus additional time in bottle before release. Currently the 2004 is available. Characteristics are: intense ruby red, velvety encounters, beautifully integrated tannins with traces of spice. This was the first wine to achieve the ultimate Italian standard of “DOCG” status. Priced at $60. in a majority of wine shops.

Despite hard times for wines (the largest wine distributing company in the world just reported a sales drop of nearly 4% last quarter), Italian wines are up so far this year, with Sangiovese up a whopping 13.8%. Italy beat the other leading U.S. imports by a wide margin. It bodes well for Banfi, especially when wines priced $20. and above showed solid growth in dollar sales and volume. See more at www.banfivintners.com.

Spirits Festival Comes to San Diego June 2-5
If at first you succeed, make it even better next time. Liz Edwards of “Let’s Play Downtown” has San Diego waiting for her 2nd annual San Diego Spirits Festival Wednesday June 2 to Friday June 5. The location is the Hilton San Diego Bayfront next to the Convention Center, with the Grand Tasting Friday on the 4 plus acre Waterfront Park next door. Right now there is a call for exhibitors who are related to the beverage industry, and media alliances are being formed daily. Seminars and competitive tastings are firmed up.

You can get the latest up to date information on this exciting event by tapping into www.sandiegospiritsfestival.com. To speak with the director, call 858-551-1605.

Wine Bytes
Live Jazz and Wine is the feature attracting crowds at WineStyles Wine Lounge in Encinitas with Suzanna Kurner playing Fri. Apr. 23 from 6 to 8:30pm. Wines by the glass or flight, plus pizzas, paninis or cheeses available, from $15. Also live music on Sat. 7 to 9:30pm. Call 760-633-0057.

§ VR Green Farms at Bella Collina Towne and Golf Club in San Clemente is hosting a Sapore Della Domenica (“Flavor of Sunday”) Italian celebration Sun. Apr. 25 from 2 to 6pm. Italian cultural dishes, wine, artisan bread, olive oil, honey and fava bean tasting. Live music, a car rally and artisans. Now that’s Italian! Limited seating at $ 50. pp. Tickets ordered at www.vrgreenfarms.com. Or call 949-697-0032.

§ Firefly Grill and Wine bar in Encinitas is planning a Pahlmeyer Vineyards Wine Dinner on Tues. Apr. 27 starting at 6:30pm. Enjoy this Napa-Sonoma powerhouse and its ’06 Pinot Noir, Merlot, Pahlmeyer Red Blend and other winners. Main course is Braised Beef Cheek from Executive Chef Aaron Daily. These are top tier wines in their prime. $75. ea. RSVP at 760-635-1066.

§ Opolo of Paso Robles is spotlighted at The Wine Encounter in the Hillcrest area of San Diego Tues. Apr. 27 from 7 to 9pm. Cost is $15. For more, call 619-543-9463.

§ The Four Seasons, Aviara Carlsbad, is presenting an Orin Swift Cellars Wine Dinner Thurs. Apr. 29 at 6:30pm. These highly sought after wines will be presented by Orin Swift family member Melissa Leonardini, along with a perfectly paired dinner. $121.91 pp. Call 760-603-6800 for an RSVP.

Mondavi is Back! The Legend Lives On

By Frank Mangio
“Wine has been with civilized man from the beginning,” so said Robert Mondavi, whose name is associated with great wine in Napa Valley from the beginning. The passion and vision that Mondavi brought to the table is the stuff of legend.

This driving force for all that is wonderful about Napa Valley wines passed on in 2008, after his namesake winery was sold in 2004. He was a champion for California as best of all wine countries.

Now, after careful planning and cultivation of some of the most fertile vineyards in Napa Valley, Robert’s son Michael and grandson Robert( Rob), are ready to re-establish the innovation, dedication, passion and vision of the first family of winemaking.

Rob Mondavi has been getting his hands dirty making wine, first with his family at Robert Mondavi Winery, then after it was sold, with his father, Michael at the recently created Folio Fine Wine Partners. Folio, in addition to representing many great names in the world of wine, is now producing the next generation of Mondavi wines with names like Emblem, “M,” Oberon and Spellbound. At an impressive gathering at Carlsbad Wine Merchants recently, Rob thanked Kathy Bankerd and her staff for the opportunity to show his wines.

Rob Mondavi, grandson of the legendary Robert Mondavi, displays his Spellbound Petite Syrah and the signature wine M by Michael Mondavi, at Carlsbad Wine Merchants.

“M is my father Michael’s signature of his life’s work” Rob said. “For six years the grapes were sold to the present owner of Opus One, the internationally known blend that started with the Mondavi family. We want it to now be the very best wine in the Napa Valley with this 2005 release. It comes from our Oso Vineyard near Howell Mountain, where we make 150 barrels. Out of that total, only 30 of the best are used in M.” He then talked about one another premium wine, Emblem. “The 2006 Emblem Cabernet is beautifully balanced with elegant texture. The thing that’s’ great about winemaking is you always have the history. Our challenge is to find new ways to get the best out of the vines and push them to new heights.”

For more history, labels and pricing, access www.foliowine.com.

Amarone of Valpolicella
As I write this column, the most influential wine publication in the world, Wine Spectator, is releasing its top ten wines. It just revealed that four are Italian wines. Amarone is not nearly as well known as its brother wines from the north, Barolo and Barbaresco; and Brunello and Chianti Classico in the south. But don’t’ let that stop you from tasting this beautiful varietal.

Amarone comes from the province of Veneto known as Valpolicella. Verona and Venice are not too far away. It is made with grapes that are partially dried and racked for a long time period before being pressed. This is called “raisining” or drying. It concentrates the sugar to give it a big strong flavor of licorice, tobacco and fig. The best ones are aged about 10 years and served at about 60 degrees, cooler than most reds.

The best winemakers have learned how to finesse the best behavior out of these volatile wines, so that now Amarone is the 4th largest seller in Italy. It goes beautifully with any Risotto dish. Some names to know: Amarone Tenuta Saint Antonio, Amarone Guiseppe Quintarelli and Amarone Bussola.

Wine Bytes
 The Dana Inn in San Diego presents Stonestree Winest of Sonoma with a dinner Thurs. Dec. 3 starting at 6pm. Chardonnay, Cab and Merlot to be poured. $50. pp. RSVP at 858-325-1981

 Barolo vs. Brunello, may the best wine win! Fri. Dec. 4 from 4 to 8:30pm at Bacchus Wine Market, downtown San Diego in the Gaslamp District. This is a big one so RSVP at 619-235-0005. Cost is $35. pp.

 Callaway Winery in Temecula gets into the holiday season with a Candlelight Dinner Sat. Dec. 5 from 6:30 to 9:30pm. 3 course gourmet dinner in the barrel room, with live holiday music. $85. ea. Call 951-676-4001.

 Firefly Grill and Wine Bar in Encinitas hosts a Caymus Vineyards of Napa Valley dinner Wed. Dec. 9 at 6:30pm. Wine pourings will include the ’07 Cabernet and Special Selection Cab. Don’t’ miss the capper, a Late Harvest ’04 Viognier. Main course is Roasted Lamb Loin. Price is $85. ea. Call 760-635-1066 for an RSVP.

 Tesoro Winery, in Old Town Temecula, has a wine and art “Launch Party” on Thurs. Dec. 10, 7 to 9pm, with wine and cheese. It’s FREE! Call 951-308-0000.

 B Cellars wines come to La Jolla at the Valencia Hotel Sky Room, with a gourmet dinner Thurs. Dec. 10 from 6:30 to 10pm. $125. ea. RSVP at 858-454-0771.

Long-Awaited ’04 Italian Brunellos Debut

by Frank Mangio
Rich, powerful, elegant and assertive are just a few of the descriptions of praise for the newly released 2004 Brunellos, considered to be the elite wines from Tuscany.

Brunellos are not frou frou frivolous wines. They are the quintessential symbol of the excellence of Italian winemaking. A clone of the Sangiovese grape, they are carefully cultivated in small batches, barreled for four years, then a year in bottle before being released for consumption. Some 25% of the Brunellos produced are sent to America where an eager market will pay a premium to taste this lush king of Italian style and culture. Prices range from $40. up to $150. a bottle.

Many of the smart winemakers in and around the birthing ground, Montalcino, did not produce a Brunello in 2002 and 2003 due to unacceptable weather conditions, so the ’04 has pent up demand, and it does not disappoint. Wineries like Gaja, Banfi, Casanovi di Neri, Altesino, Frescobaldi rave about this vintage. “The 2004 season was exceptional with excellent conditions, and compares favorably with the wonderful 2001 wines,” stated Giacomo Neri. “The growing season in 2003 was just too hot and lacked structure and backbone; and the 2002 was a washout with terrible rains especially at harvest. Most of this ’04 season was much easier on the grapes under sunny, warm skies and cooler temperatures.”

That’s Italy for you. Winemakers have to be flexible and possess a touch of genius to produce remarkable wines with Italy’s weather swings.

Another winemaker, Andrea Cortonesi of Ucceliera, was quoted in Wine Spectator as saying of the ‘04’s “these Brunellos are much richer and better for aging than the 2001’s. There will be great surprises.” What he is saying refers to the cellaring of the ‘04’s, up to 12 years, to maximize its wealth of flavors.

Half-way around the world, Peder and Julie Norby lead remarkable careers in North San Diego County. He is a marketing specialist guiding the future of retail districts in Encinitas. She is a school principal in Solana Beach. But if you ask them what they really enjoy out of life, they would tell you it is make Brunello wine on their residential property in Carlsbad. Some 60 neighbors and friends gathered recently at the Norby home, and after he oriented the group, all dug into grape picking, crushing, bottling and tasting.

“We grow mostly Brunello grapes,” said Norby. “The soil and climate are perfectly aligned to Tuscany and Montalcino. We are pleased with our 2nd year harvest and after we are through picking today, we will taste the results of our first harvest (which I also worked at). It should get better as the vines age to a sweet spot of 7 or more years.”


Taste of Wine columnist Frank Mangio picks Brunello Grapes at the Carlsbad home vineyard of Peder and Julie Norby.

Norby should be able to get close to 80 gallons of wine and 400 bottles from this years’ harvest. Like pieces to an intricate puzzle, he has invested in small-scale but effective equipment which precisely processes the grapes to bottle. “To get delicious tasting wine, you must be patient and know winemaking,” he said. “This is such a satisfying, productive thing to do with a piece of property. It sure beats filling a bag every week with grass clippings.” I’ll drink to that.


Wine Bytes
• Vinz Wine Bar downtown Escondido is new and presents outdoor live entertainment every Sat. through Oct. 31, from 6 to 8:30pm. Dinner reservations accepted by calling 760-743-8466.

• The Catamaran Resort Hotel on Mission Bay San Diego hosts a Wine Festival Sat. Sept. 26 from 1 to 4pm. It benefits Big Brothers and Sisters charity. 60 wineries are expected including Napa, Sonoma, Washington, and Oregon. Food Pairings include gourmet cheeses. Entrance fee is $55. in advance,$60. at the door. Full details at www.missionbaywinefestival.com. Or call 858-488-1081.

• Thurs. Oct. 1 is a great time to be in Carmel as their annual wine event happens from 6 to 10pm. 30 restaurants and 20 wineries participate at the Carmel Mission. Call 831-624-2522 for more.

• Vino 100 in San Marcos goes Around the World for their wine tasting on Fri. Oct. 2 from 5 to 9pm. $15. pp gets you the opportunity to compare a world of wine. Call 760-591-9113.

• Four North County wineries have partnered for a Fall Barrel Tasting with the winemakers in attendance, Sat. Oct. 3 from 10 to 5pm at each of the wineries: Belle Marie, Bernardo, Cordiano and Deer Park. Passports are being pre-sold for $35. at each of the wineries and are good for all wineries that day. Contact Jeff at Belle Marie for details: 760-796-7557.

• Belle Marie in Escondido also has its next Winemaker’s Dinner on Sat. Oct. 10. Special French menu is planned, paired with the winery’s French style wines. For more, again contact Jeff at 760-796-7557.