Zinfandel Wines are Zinfully Delicious

by Frank Mangio
Jammy, big fruited and pressing all the right buttons for wine lovers, Zinfandel is grown just about everywhere in California.  At one time, it was the most widely planted grape in this state.

When Zin wine lovers gather, it’s time to party.  The annual (ZAP) Zinfandel Advocates and Producers convention in San Francisco, shown here, is the largest of its kind on the West Coast. Photo by Wayde Carroll from ZAP.

As much fun as Zin is, it has a historic and traditional side to it.  Old Vine Zin, gnarly, twisted vines that have been producing Zinfandel grapes for more than 40 years, some well over 100 years, make wines of amazing richness and depth.  They are found mostly in the hills of Sonoma and Napa, where immigrant Italians and Croatians planted them when they settled in from their old world former countries.  Although many still consider Zinfandel as “California’s grape,” DNA testing has focused on the link to the Italian grape Primitivo, with an original relationship to the Croation grape Plavac Mali.

The best case for the Croatian connection comes from my friend and world-famous winemaker from Croatia, Mike Grgich of Grgich Hills in Napa Valley.  “My family owned a small vineyard and winery in Croatia where I was born.  It was my duty to take care of the vineyard. One of the grape varietals was Plavac Mali.  When I came to the Napa Valley in 1959, they had Zinfandel grapes and I remember seeing these grapes and feeling like I had come home to the same grape vines from Croatia. In later years I brought Zinfandel samples to Croatia and researched studies that linked Zinfandel, Primitivo and Plavac Mali.”

Joel Peterson is the leading Zinfandel winemaker of Ravenswood since 1976 and helped found the Zinfandel Advocates and Producers (ZAP). He has come from producing 327 cases of Zinfandel to producing about 800,000 cases of red wine annually, working with over 100 growers that provide grapes for Ravenswood.  He has been involved in a clonal study of the heritage of the grape to save the legacy of the ancient vines.  He wanted respect for Zinfandel on the same level as that of Cabernet which was displacing Zin. “Zinfandel is California’s unique varietal.  But we don’t have a solid history of its evolution in California.  We now know that age makes a big difference in the mature flavor of Zin. We are improving the root stock in such a way that we keep getting more flavorful wine.”

ZAP recently put together a road show in San Diego, presenting their members at the Bristol Hotel.  Some previously profiled Zins were there, including:  Opolo of Paso Robles with its Mountain Zinfandel ($22.) and Carole Shelton of Sonoma and its Wild Thing Old Vine Zin.($19.)

Linda Neal of Mellowood Vineyard

I was introduced to the wines of Linda Neal of Mellowood Vineyard in the Sierra Foothills.  The standout was the 2009 Zinfandel, ($26.) an important part of the up and coming El Dorado Wine Country. El Dorado also is home to Lava Cap, makers of a highly rated Zin and Petite Sirah ( $30.).

Best recent vintages for Zinfandel in California have been 2008 and 2009.  Yet to be rated is the 2012 but from what I hear from winemakers, it will be an elegant, California style fruit forward year.

To learn more about “California’s wine,” visit www.zinfandel.org.

Wine Bytes
Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas is Grillin and Chillin and saluting Sauvignon September, Fri. Sept. 13 from 6 to 8pm.  Pricing and details at 760-479-2500.

§Bernardo Winery in Rancho Bernardo is hosting a Grapestomp, Sat. Sept. 14 from Noon to 4pm.  $75. pp.  Music, dancing, wine and a sit down dinner. RSVP at 858-487-1866.

TUSCANY Restaurant in La Costa continues with their Jazz concert series, Sun. Sept. 15, featuring Grammy nominee singer Gail Jhonson, appearing with Brad Rambur and 3 Track. Doors open at 11am, showtime at Noon.  Tickets $30. in advance, $35. at the door.  RSVP at 760-929-8111.

Totally ZIN at ZAP-Fest

by Frank Mangio

The ZAP-Fest, an annual gathering of Zinfandel fanatics in San Francisco by the Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP) was everything I had heard that it was, and more.

Not your usual namby-pamby gathering, it was an exciting delight from the start of its 3 days of creativity to the Grand Tasting that filled two large buildings with over 200 wineries at Fort Mason, with the Golden Gate Bridge as a backdrop.

8,000 guests poured over the wines offered. It was the 20th ZAP gathering so a Roaring 20’s theme was cut loose and burst through expectations with new ways to learn about this grape with a strong European influence.

Chiarello Family Vineyards was a new entry in the ZAP Festival, the creation of Napa Valley’s master chef Michael Chiarello.

This “used-to-be” jug wine with boyish fruit and high alcohol has its roots in such far away places as Campania, Italy where it is known as Primitivo, with traces of this varietal verified across the Adriatic, in Croatia. Cuttings were brought to California in the 1820s from Austrian sources who gave it the Germanic name. It grew vigorously and later in the 1900s became popular as a blush wine, White Zinfandel. Old vines were preserved for their lengthy production.

Joel Peterson, founder and winemaker for Ravenswood since its beginnings in 1976, is also one of the founders of ZAP. He is also a member of the 2011 Vintners Hall of Fame as the Zinfandel Pioneer who held the varietal together and changed its perception to that of a premier, premium wine.

Joel Peterson, is founder of the popular Ravenswood Zinfandel, now producing 800,000 cases of red wine.

Joel works with over 100 plus growers that provide grapes for Ravenswood, which offers a huge variety and range of Zins, from the Vintners Blend Zin, seen in most supermarkets, to select vineyard premiums from Napa Valley, Sonoma and Lodi ( $35.) www.ravenswood.com.

Other Zin favorites at the festival included: BR Cohn Sonoma Valley($28.), Bogle Old Vine Zin from Lodi($11.), V Sattui Winery Napa Valley make 12 different styles of Zin($36.), Seghesio Family Wineries has won world-wide awards for its 6 collections of estate Zins ($36.), Pedroncelli in Sonoma has scored well with its Mother Clone Old Vine and Dry Rose’ of Zin($15.), and a newcomer, Wine Guerrilla of Sonoma is worth a try($30.).

The next Zinfandel Festival is in Paso Robles March 18 to 20. From great Paso Zins, food from master chefs and auctions, there are many ways to enjoy this major event. See all the options at www.pasowine.com.

Wine Bytes

Il Farro Italian Restaurant in Newport Beach has a Sardinian Wine Dinner Thurs. March 10 at 6:30pm. Wine owners Pina and Francesco Soletta will present the wines. $59. pp. Call 949-723-5711.

Orfila Winery in Escondido has a 8-wine blind tasting Thurs. March 10 from 6:30 to 8:30pm. $25. ea. includes a How to Taste guide. Top score wins a bottle of Orfila Wine. Call 800-868-9463.

Cakebread Wines are the select feature at the Wine Bank in the Gaslamp, downtown San Diego Fri. March 11 from 6 to 8pm. Cost is $20. for Napa Valley’s elite wines. Details at 619-234-7487.

Canapes in the San Marcos Restaurant Row has the Robert Hall wines for a tasting Sun. March 13 from 3 to 6pm. $10. pp includes paired appetizers. RSVP at 760-510-2088.

Firefly Grill and Wine Bar in Encinitas has a Treana Winemaker Dinner Mon. March 14 at 6:30pm. These wines are some of Paso Robles’s best. Cost is $59. Reserve your place at 760-635-1066.

Il Fornaio at the Del Mar Plaza has its next Festa Regionale with a salute to the wine and food of the Trentino-Alto Adige districts of Italy, March 6 to 20. Local wines and food featured. See www.ilfornaio.com.

Winemaker of the Year named at San Francisco International

by Frank Mangio
Amanda Cramer of Niner Wine Estates on the west side of Paso Robles, and some of her wine creations, have taken top honors at the recent San Francisco International Wine Competition. Her Niner 2007 Premium Bordeaux Blend ($58.) took Double Gold and Best Bordeaux Blend, and her 2007 Cabernet Bootjack Ranch ($28.) also took Double Gold.

Cramer has been with Niner since 2004 and came there from assignments in the Napa Valley, Australia and Chile. “Given the opportunity to help build a winery from the ground up in the attractive Paso Robles area was something I simply could not pass up,” she said. “I’ve always loved the combination of agriculture, chemistry and artistry that winemaking represents. The agricultural is the most important,” she said, pointing out that 2010 will be Niner’s first all-estate produced vintage. “As winemaker, the most important decision I make is the harvest date.”

Amanda’s background as a Washington DC teacher of math and chemistry provided solid preparation for the road out west and enrollment in the UC Davis School of Enology and Viticulture, considered the foremost in the country, while interning at Far Niente Winery in the Napa Valley.

After a series of high profile positions in winemaking at such names as Chimney Rock, Robert Mondavi, D’Arenberg and Casa Lapostolle, she took a job as Assistant under the great Heidi Barrett at Paradigm in the Napa Valley, who developed Cramer’s expertise in Bordeaux varietals. Then came the chief winemaker opportunity at Niner Wine Estates, and this year the Winemaker of the Year Award at the San Francisco International Wine Competition. See more about Niner by visiting www.ninerwine.com.

Wine Spectator Annual Restaurant Awards
Wine Spectator is the most circulated wine publication in the world and the most prestigious. Every year, they research restaurants worldwide for best wine list, pricing, sommeliers and food and wine presentation.

Three levels of awards are given: Award of Excellence, Best of Award of Excellence and the highest, the Grand Award. The following are the San Diego area winners that I have reviewed in my column: Grand Award – Addison, Grand Del Mar Resort; The WineSellar & Brassiere, San Diego. Best of Award of Excellence – Amaya Bistro, Grand Del Mar Resort;

Delicias, Rancho Santa Fe; Donovan’s Steak & Chop House, University City. Award of Excellence – Bistro West, Carlsbad; Firefly, Encinitas; Firenze Trattoria, Encinitas; Island Prime, San Diego; Mille Fleurs, Rancho Santa Fe; Paradise Grille, Del Mar; Truluck’s University City; West Steak & Seafood, Carlsbad.

I have observed and commented that many more restaurants are upgrading their wine presentations and deserve consideration. Innovative offerings like direct sales by the bottle, lowering or even waving corkage fees, lowering prices by the glass and adding wine “flights” are just a few of the serendipitous findings on the wine list. Wine is helping to bring the customer back into the restaurants.

Wine Bytes
Relm Wine, Beer and Bistro, a new wine bar, has opened in Carlsbad at 2917 State Street, operated by Rene Fleming. A wide variety of small plates will be offered starting August 24 including soups, salads and unique sandwiches. Call 760-434-9463.

San Diego Wine Company has a Fritz Portfolio Tasting with owner Clay Fritz, Sat. Aug. 28 from 11 to 4:30pm. Fee is just $10. Details at 858-586-9463.

3rd Corner in Encinitas hosts the favorite Paso Robles Justin Winery for a 4 course dinner on Tues. Aug. 31 from 6 to 9pm. Includes the great latest-release blends: Isosceles, Justification and Obtuse. $70. pp. RSVP at 760-942-2104.

WineSellar & Brasserie presents a special yacht party “Sunset Wine & Cheese Harbor Cruise” Sun. Aug. 29 from 4 to 7pm. Limited guests. Total price $99. Call Amos at 858-688-1063.

The next “Drink Yourself Blind” wine tasting competition at Bacchus Wine Market in the Gaslamp District downtown San Diego is Fri. Sept. 3 from 4 to 8:30pm. They brown bag 8 wines. Prizes for those that are correct on 4 or more. Cost is $15. Call 619-236-0005.

Mendocino Pinot Possesses Panache

by Frank Mangio
If you are heading up to Northern California wine country, plan some time in the Anderson Valley of Mendocino County and celebrate the Pinot Noir Festival with the locals Saturday and Sunday May 14 and 15. OK, I will admit I would rather be in Oregon if I’m on a “best-of” hunt, but I’m open to any discussion when it comes to “may the best Pinot win.” Pinot has a richness and diversity that makes it the royal flush of the wine world. And Anderson Valley does its best to keep up with the front-runners with its unique viticultural climate of warm sunny days and cool, foggy nights.

Swiss and Italian settlers planted first in the mid-1800’s. A venerable old name, Italian Swiss Colony Winery is located at the southern end, in Asti. But it wasn’t until 1983 that the valley officially became an appellation with its Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer dominating. Goldeneye, part of the legendary Goldeneye in the Anderson Valley has 5 Pinot Noir entries. Duckhorn Vineyards, was chosen as the winery to host the Pinot Noir Grand Tasting 11 – 3pm, Saturday May 15. The winery is between Boonville and Philo on Highway 128. There will be over 100 Pinots to taste, but I expect Goldeneye will get the most attention.

They are not the budget Pinots you taste in the south of California. This is the real deal, with their 2007 Anderson Valley Pinot retailing at $55., to the 2007 Ten Degrees priced at $100. on their web site.

Zach Rasmuson is Goldeneye’s respected, dedicated winemaker. He worked long and hard at Napa Valley’s Stags Leap under the great Warren Winiarski who instilled in him the Bordeaux style of red winemaking. Zach always had an eye for Pinot Noir and the Anderson Valley, and when his time came in 2003, he joined Goldeneye as their winemaker.

“Pinot Noir is an amazing, malleable grape, he asserted. “You need to be gentle. It’s a process of minimal intervention, of finesse not muscle. We’re not trying to replicate the wines of Burgundy (where the grape comes from) at Goldeneye. Pinot reflects its terroir with remarkable clarity. We have an extensive palette of flavors from which to create. The result is an extracted, elegant wine.”

Mendocino Wine Country has about 84 wineries, emphasizing handcrafted, artisan style wines. Some names to know beside Goldeneye are: Edmeades Winery that features old vine Zinfandel, Fetzer Vineyards, one of the biggest value wines in the world, Parducci Wine Cellars, Rosati Winery, Cakebread Cellars and Philo Ridge. For more on these wineries and others, access www.truemendocinowine.com.

Eat, Drink and Enjoy at Canapes
A fascinating personality in the fast-growing San Marcos restaurant and wine scene has triumphed with his new, stylish Canapes, in Restaurant Row. James Allyn can now commute across the street from his North County Wine Company to his serendipitous Canapes, featuring more than 30 small plate culinary delights from almost every corner of the world. The flamboyant food and wine entrepreneur took me through his wine list with a huge selection “by the glass.” And there it was: the Goldeneye Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley Mendocino. A look inside featuring the area of Canapes in San Marcos.

Allyn deftly took me through a mixed menu of his brilliantly crafted small-bite “sideways, munches, feasts and tastes,” with a perfectly paired group of wines that tapped into the flavor of the selections. Many of his menu items are gluten-free, vegetarian dishes underlining local, fresh produce. With the beef, it’s only Certified Angus. Up to 30 menu choices, with a wine/beer list of over 130 names to pick from. The outside patio will get really popular as the weather warms. Two firepits and live bands will keep it full of music-lovers. Canapes offers catering and soon will be announcing a Saturday and Sunday brunch.

Canapes (Can-ah-pays) means small plates in French. “Mi contento” is Italian for “I have had my fill and I am happy.” That’s exactly how I felt after a visit to Canapes. See www.CanapesGrill.com. Call 760-510-2088.

Wine Bytes
The Grand Collaboration at Addison in the Grand Del Mar is Fri. May 14 from 5:30-10pm featuring Viader and Summerland Wineries. A grand menu will be presented by both Addison and Amaya chefs with a six course dinner and wine pairings. $125.pp. Call for an RSVP at 858-314-2000.

Barrels and Branches Nursery in Encinitas presents a wine tasting and food pairing Sat. May 15 from 6 to 9pm. Five different Relm Wines will be served. Live Music. Cost is $32. For details call 760-814-1198.

Oregon and Washington wines are side by side in a tasting at Bacchus Wine Market in the Gaslamp District of downtown San Diego Sat. May 15 from 2 to 9pm. Enjoy Pinot Noirs, Cabs, Merlots and many blends. $20. tasting fee. For more info, it’s 619-236-0005.

La Costa Wine Company has its big Wine Expo 2010 on Sat. May 22 from 2 to 6pm. Over 50 wines will be tasted from all over the world. Purchase them at huge discounts. Appetizer are specially prepared by “Dinners by David.” $15. fee. RSVP only by contacting 760-431-8455 for this special event.

The 28th annual Paso Robles Wine Festival is Fri. May 21 through Sun. May 23. A Wine Auction and Dinner is added this year on Sat. May 22. This is Paso’s biggest event of the year. Details at www.pasowine.com. Or phone 805-239-8463.

Banfi Honored as Italy's Top Winery

by Frank Mangio
Castello Banfi, the anchor to the worldwide Banfi Vintners, has been honored again as Italy’s top winery at the annual VinItaly wine fair in Verona, Italy. An international panel, through rigorous blind wine tasting, awarded Banfi Italy’s “Gran Menzione,” the equivalent of the gold medal. It is the 12th time in 17 years that Castello Banfi has been declared Italy’s best winery.

Three generations of the Mariani Family have built Banfi Vintners into a world-wide name in imported wines, from the original Castello Banfi in Tuscany, to other properties in Europe, South America and the new Chateau Tanunda in Australia.

The founders of Banfi Vintners are ( front left to right)
John and Harry Mariani. Present family proprietors are ( upper left to right) Cristina Mariani-May and James Mariani.

The original winery was established in 1978 when John and Harry Mariani purchased 7,100 acres within several vineyards at the base of Montalcino, a medieval village rising 600 meters from the valley floor.

Brunello, a premium clone of the Sangiovse grape of Chianti fame, is their signature wine. The “Castello” is a Romanesqe fortress, masterfully restored as a hospitality center, formal restaurant, taverna, enoteca, glass museum and recently opened five star “ Il Borgo” villas, with luxury rooms and suites.

Names to know in the Banfi family of wines include: Rosa Regale, a festive sparkling wine from Piemonte, perfect as an aperitif when chilled; Don Melchor from Concho Y Toro, Chile’s ultimate Cabernet; and shown in the photo, the Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino, the 100% Sangiovese with a production process of nearly four years plus additional time in bottle before release. Currently the 2004 is available. Characteristics are: intense ruby red, velvety encounters, beautifully integrated tannins with traces of spice. This was the first wine to achieve the ultimate Italian standard of “DOCG” status. Priced at $60. in a majority of wine shops.

Despite hard times for wines (the largest wine distributing company in the world just reported a sales drop of nearly 4% last quarter), Italian wines are up so far this year, with Sangiovese up a whopping 13.8%. Italy beat the other leading U.S. imports by a wide margin. It bodes well for Banfi, especially when wines priced $20. and above showed solid growth in dollar sales and volume. See more at www.banfivintners.com.

Spirits Festival Comes to San Diego June 2-5
If at first you succeed, make it even better next time. Liz Edwards of “Let’s Play Downtown” has San Diego waiting for her 2nd annual San Diego Spirits Festival Wednesday June 2 to Friday June 5. The location is the Hilton San Diego Bayfront next to the Convention Center, with the Grand Tasting Friday on the 4 plus acre Waterfront Park next door. Right now there is a call for exhibitors who are related to the beverage industry, and media alliances are being formed daily. Seminars and competitive tastings are firmed up.

You can get the latest up to date information on this exciting event by tapping into www.sandiegospiritsfestival.com. To speak with the director, call 858-551-1605.

Wine Bytes
Live Jazz and Wine is the feature attracting crowds at WineStyles Wine Lounge in Encinitas with Suzanna Kurner playing Fri. Apr. 23 from 6 to 8:30pm. Wines by the glass or flight, plus pizzas, paninis or cheeses available, from $15. Also live music on Sat. 7 to 9:30pm. Call 760-633-0057.

§ VR Green Farms at Bella Collina Towne and Golf Club in San Clemente is hosting a Sapore Della Domenica (“Flavor of Sunday”) Italian celebration Sun. Apr. 25 from 2 to 6pm. Italian cultural dishes, wine, artisan bread, olive oil, honey and fava bean tasting. Live music, a car rally and artisans. Now that’s Italian! Limited seating at $ 50. pp. Tickets ordered at www.vrgreenfarms.com. Or call 949-697-0032.

§ Firefly Grill and Wine bar in Encinitas is planning a Pahlmeyer Vineyards Wine Dinner on Tues. Apr. 27 starting at 6:30pm. Enjoy this Napa-Sonoma powerhouse and its ’06 Pinot Noir, Merlot, Pahlmeyer Red Blend and other winners. Main course is Braised Beef Cheek from Executive Chef Aaron Daily. These are top tier wines in their prime. $75. ea. RSVP at 760-635-1066.

§ Opolo of Paso Robles is spotlighted at The Wine Encounter in the Hillcrest area of San Diego Tues. Apr. 27 from 7 to 9pm. Cost is $15. For more, call 619-543-9463.

§ The Four Seasons, Aviara Carlsbad, is presenting an Orin Swift Cellars Wine Dinner Thurs. Apr. 29 at 6:30pm. These highly sought after wines will be presented by Orin Swift family member Melissa Leonardini, along with a perfectly paired dinner. $121.91 pp. Call 760-603-6800 for an RSVP.