The Truth About Sulfite in Wine

by Frank Mangio

Right out of the gate, I don’t feel there is a problem with a trace of sulfite in wines. But it is the number one complaint I hear about wine consumption.

“I get a headache from drinking wine…must be the sulfite in it. I must be allergic. Is there a wine that is sulfite-free?” Enough of those questions and I had to do some digging so I could understand enough to answer this common misunderstanding.

If you have a consistent headache from wine, chances are good it’s not from the trace sulfite in it. Instead it is more likely coming from the alcohol or histamine-like compounds, mostly in red wine, so you should have an allergy check. Perhaps an anti-histamine tablet would solve the problem.

Sulfite is a natural bi-product of the fermentation process. Elements are also in bread, salad ingredients, meat, seafood and the list goes on. The human body itself contains about 6 ounces of natural sulfite, mostly in amino acids that help in making all sorts of body parts.

Most wineries add sulfite to their wines after fermentation to preserve flavor and help prevent oxidation. Oxidation is the enemy of wine in that it will sour it and turn it brown in a short time. The U.S. requires warning labels on wines because a small percentage of people (like asthmatics) can suffer from allergic reactions. Other countries don’t require the warning so consumers of these wines think they are sulfite-free.

I “Googled” the net and came up with one winery in Oregon that describes itself as “Eco Wine…Organic Sulfite Free Wines.” The winery is Amity and it specializes in Pinot Noir. Oregon has always been my favorite Pinot Noir appellation and Amity has been a medal winner with its version, most recently scoring at the San Francisco International Wine Competition this year with the highest rating for Pinot.

The winery describes this winning ’07 Pinot Noir as “eco-organic without sulfites.” The federal agency that polices such things made the winery change the label to “no detectable sulfites.” The price is $27. at the winery.

The website is www.amityvineyards.com. The phone number is 503-835-2362 ext #1. The winemaker is Myron Redford and he has been doing sulfite-free wine since 1991. He also has a Chardonnay/Pinot Blanc blend that is sulfite-free.

Aussie Wines Slipping but Rieslings Holding Up
At the recent San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival Sommelier Blind Tastings, one of the wines chosen was an Australian White Riesling from the Clare Valley.

It had most of the sommeliers baffled as they had just identified a Riesling from Germany, the birthplace of this delicious grape. I thought it was a smart stroke to place the spotlight on an Aussie white, as the reds just haven’t performed that well lately. This year’s harvest has had dismal weather to contend with and in the recent past, an ocean of wine has hit the U.S. from “down under.” Of course when we say Aussie Red, we mean Shiraz.

As of last year, about 50 million cases of surplus have been returned, exports have dropped 13%, and 12% by value. The rush to wine riches is the main culprit. The wines are too sweet, too much alcohol, a fake fruit taste and oh so similar.

I personally enjoy a great Shiraz, sister of the Rhone Valley French Syrah, grown extensively in California. But the trend in Australia is to get away from quality. But back to Rieslings, and this is the varietal that seems to bring back the Aussie charm in winemaking. They are well-made, structured wines with a hint of lime and a nice fullness. Try these: Killkanoon 2007, Clare Valley, $18.99; and Pewsey Vale Vineyard, 2008, Eden Valley, $13.99

Wines for your Must-Try List

by Frank Mangio

Over the holidays, I had the pleasure to attend parties, dinners at homes and lovely restaurants, as I am sure most of you did also. A select group of wines from the latest releases caught my eye and palate that I want to share with you.

My goal in wine consumption is to inventory a “core” group of wines that I can count on to be superior in taste and value, but leave about 40% of my wine budget for wine to “explore,” new wines that I not familiar with. The following would be “explore” wines that were very impressive:

§ Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc ‘07, Marlborough, New Zealand $20. Perennial favorite, focused citrus with crisp acidity.

§ Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico ’04, Tuscany, Italy. $16. A surprisingly pleasant discovery from the one of the first families of wine in Italy. Smooth entry with lovely earthy mouthfeel.

§ Cuvaison Merlot ’01, Carneros, Napa Valley CA. (latest release is ’04) $29. Highly acclaimed, bright fruit, low production.

§ Elk Cove Pinot Noir ‘06, Willamette Valley Oregon. $29. Introduced to me by Sommelier Jesse Rodriguez at Addison, The Grand Resort, Del Mar. Careful hand-worked grapes from the Northwest Winery of the year.