Howell Mountain: Where it’s at in Napa Valley

by Frank Mangio
Millions of wine lovers, touristy types and California back-country drivers are driven to explore a revered 44,000 acres of wineries ands vineyards known as the Napa Valley . It makes only 4% of the wines in California , but produces 20% of wine sales in this state. Its reputation really took off when Robert Mondavi established his Robert Mondavi Winery. The rich tastes and ripe tannins of the signature Cabernet Sauvignon resemble the Bordeaux wine making area of France , and has demonstrated and was judged, to be superior to the French version.

Highway 29, which cuts through the Valley and routes the traveler to some 400 wineries and 700 grape growers, is a miniature Interstate 5 with traffic woes increasing to the boiling point.

Those in the know have known for some time that the Silverado Trail, which parallels Highway 29 to the east, is a more beautiful, pristine route that takes the traveler to some of the best brands in Napa Valley . Its crown jewel is Howell Mountain , a gentle, rural incline which begins at the 1,400 foot level. It also happens to be the fog-line boundary. Any grapes grown above that level are subject to sunnier days and cooler nights, the holy grail for excellence in wines. The soil is rockier and porous allowing for drainage of the heavier rainfall that they experience. The bottom line is a rich complexity and flavor.
The view from Viader, one of the wineries at the base of Howell Mt. It makes superb examples of Cabernet & Cab Franc.

The Howell Mountain appellation was the first to be recognized as a distinct growing region within the Napa Valley . The family style wineries often have small, hard-to-obtain quantities and are respected for their Cabs and Zins.

The Howell Mountain Wine Tasting for the public and the trade is traveling to Los Angeles and the Peterson Auto Museum on Wilshire Boulevard Monday March 15 from 2 to 6pm . More than 25 select wineries will be pouring. It will be a rare occasion.

Some names to know include: Cakebread, Atlas Peak , Beringer, Duckhorn, O’Shaugnessy, Robert Foley and many more. Tickets for the public are $45. each and can be processed at www.howellmountain.org. Public hours are 4 to 6pm . The info line is: 707-965-2665.

La Costa Wine Company Ramps Up Events
Kris Garrett is a man on a mission. He purchased the former Wine Street in Carlsbad not too long ago from Tanya Kinberg, a popular wine entrepreneur, and proceeded to move into the down economy with an added value and special event mentality.

The name was changed to La Costa Wine Company and the interior was re-modeled into a clean, upscale style that made wines easier to find. An imported cheese section was added to compliment the increase in events at the comfortable bistro style, marble bar. Tanya’s unsurpassed experience in the Napa Valley was enlisted for key “A-List” selections from small producers.
La Costa Wine Company owner Kris Garrett pours Italian wines at a recent tasting event.

The biggest, most exciting news yet is just around the corner on the calendar as Kris and his North County Wine Company host the two legendary wineries in Paso Robles wine growing history: Justin Winery on Friday February 26 from 5 to 8pm and the man that put the appellation on the map, Gary Eberle of Eberle Winery, on Thursday March 4 from 5 to 8pm with a charge of $20.

Eberle is considered to be the pioneer in the making of fine wine in Paso Robles Wine Country with over 30 years of production. His winery tastings are still complimentary, including cave tours. Learn more at www.eberlewinery.com.

At the Justin tasting, wines include: Chardonnay, Cabernet, Savant, Justification, Tempranillo and Obtuse. Fee is $30. Their site is www.justinwine.com. For more on La Costa Wine Company, access www.lacostawineco.com or call 760-431-8455.

Wine Bytes
Firefly Grill and Wine Bar in Encinitas is hosting an Amglin Winemaker Dinner Thurs. Feb. 25, 6:30pm . Cost is $75. ea. Amglin of Paso Robles focuses on the Rhone Varietals and will be pouring Viognier, Pinot Noir, a Rhone blend and a Syrah. To RSVP call 760-635-1066.

Cicciotti’s Trattoria in Cardiff is staging a benefit Opera Concert Thurs. Feb. 25 at 7pm and 9pm . Entrance fee $20. Two internationally known tenors will sing. Gaetano Cicciotti, the owner, has a new cookbook out featuring Italian food specialties. Call 760-634-2335.

Bacchus Wine Market in the Gaslamp District San Diego presents its next “Drink Yourself Blind” bagged wine tasting Fri. Feb. 26 form 4 to 8:30pm. Eight wines to try. Guess right and win prizes. Details at 619-236-0005.

A ZD Napa Valley Wine Tasting is planned for 21 Oceanfront Restaurant in Newport Beach Fri Feb. 26 from 6:30 to 10pm . Four course dinner with perfectly paired wines for $95. Learn more at 949-673-2100.

The Hilton Anaheim hosts a Chalk Hill Wine Dinner Fri. Feb. 26 at 6pm for $75. pp. Main entrée is Herb Roasted Lamb with Salsa Verde and Black Truffles, matching up with the ’06 Estate Cabernet. Call for RSVP’s at 714-740-4412.

Island Prime Primed for Flavor

by Frank Mangio
It is a rare occasion to witness a family restaurant group with the singular quality and wide divergence that the Cohn Restaurant Group in San Diego exhibits. During the past 25 years David and Leslie Cohn have brought San Diego County an amazing array of prime-flavor dining in their 11 restaurants.

Well-deserved honors have been bestowed upon the Cohn “obsession with hospitality,” from the original Corvette Diner to the upscale steak and seafood operations: 333 Pacific in Oceanside, and Island Prime on Harbor Island in San Diego .

We have raved over the menu and wine list at 333 Pacific as being original and uniquely flavorful, so we jumped at the opportunity to meet the staff and sample the offerings at Island Prime.

Deborah Scott is the Executive Chef, a top shelf talent with a sense of the “wow” factor. Her resume is impressive, but it’s in the food that she sets the bar high with flavor that can’t be beat.

I would recommend starting with the crab-stuffed artichoke, then the baby beets salad with walnuts and goat cheese. You have to order the Island Prime Filet Trio if you’re a beef lover like I am.

Wine Director and Island Prime Manager Maurice DiMarino shows his wine cellar and his Italian favorites.

Toppings are different on each and include: gorgonzola, wild mushrooms and blue crab. Three different culinary experiences in one entrée…brilliant! Side options include: truffled-creamed corn, green beans, wild mushrooms and lots more. The wine list and operations are run by Maurice DiMarino who is always on the floor, making certain that the Cohn’s obsession with hospitality is in full bloom. For more see islandprime.com or dinecrg.com.

Wine Bytes
West Steak, Seafood and Spirits in Carlsbad and Executive Chef Eugenio Martignago showcase Penfolds Wines of Australia in a wine and dinner event Mon. Feb. 22 starting at 6:30pm . Delicious food will match up with wines like Riesling, Chardonnay, Red Blends and Port. Rack of Australian Lamb is the main entrée of this 4 course dinner. $75. ea. RSVP at 760-930-9100.

La Costa Wine Company in Carlsbad has a limited-space Justin Tasting on Fri. Feb. 26 from 5 to 8pm . This will sell out fast, as Justin from Paso Robles is well known around the wine world. New releases only. $30. pp. RSVP at 760-431-8455.

The 3rd Corner in Encinitas hosts an Ojai Wine Dinner on Tues. Feb. 16 at 6pm. Four course dinner with 4 different wines from Riesling to a lovely Viognier Dessert wine. $65. charge. Reserve at 760-942-2104.

The Paso Robles Grand Tasting Tour is Tuesday February 23 to Thursday February 25. Eleven events are being staged from Cardiff to Pont Loma in a regional showcase of over 40 winemakers. www.FastForwardEvents.com

The Argyle Steakhouse at the Four Seasons in the Aviara Carlsbad now has a Happy Hour. It starts at 4pm with 4.00 drinks, 5pm has $5. drinks and 6pm has $6. drinks. Details at 760-603-3773.

The Paso Robles West Side Story (Part Deux)

by Frank Mangio
The previous column underlined the growing importance of Paso Robles as a major wine country with its more than 180 wineries emphasizing French Bordeaux and Rhone style wines. After nearly a week-long visit, with mostly West Side wineries in my sights, more needs to be revealed about this fastest growing California favorite.

The West Side is really those wineries west of Highway 101 and generally connected with State Highway 46 West. It is uncongested, rugged, hilly and much cooler, with the western boundaries just 6 miles from the Pacific Ocean.

The wines are spectacular. You got an in-depth example of this when the celebrated JustinWinery and Vineyard was profiled. We found out that a lot of Justin’s grapes are sourced from two nearby vineyards, so a visit to Denner Vineyards and Halter Ranch seemed to make sense.

Ron Denner has been at the winemaking business since 1997 on 156 acres of rocky, rolling hills on Vineyard Drive, a few miles from the 46 West. He prides himself on the ultra-premium Rhone style varietals that dot the wine list, including his “Theresa,” a white blend of Rousanne, Viognier, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc. The 2007 vintage was applauded by Wine Spectator as one of the finest white wines in California. They called it “elegant and refined with pear, citrus and tropical notes…intense and focused.”

I asked him how many grape varietals are grown at Denner. He said “14 types of grapes are harvested here, and we can do that successfully because of the wide diversity of climate and soils. The potential of Bordeaux styles like Cabernet and Merlot are limitless and best expressed by Justin’s Isoscles.

Ron Denner of Denner Winery in Paso Robles pours his top rated white “Theresa.”

We are now experimenting with Carmenere, a grape originally from Bordeaux and getting a reputation in Chile. My son Brian who made wines for 10 years inChile and is now our winemaker at Denner, introduced me to this exciting red wine,” he said.

Denner concluded our visit with a walk-through his Comus Center, a nearly-completed castle for events and Comus Club members. Comus, in Greek mythology, was the son of Bacchus the God of Wine. He was known for his revelry and prodigious appetite for great wines. Those who visit the annual Mardi Gras in New Orleans know the Comus Ball as the biggest and best. Ron Denner knows too. He has made Comus his model for success.

Halter Ranch is the largest vineyard west of Paso Robles, with 250 acres and 15 wineries on its client list. Mitch Wyss runs the operation which dates back to the 1880’s. 60% of the grapes are Bordeaux style, with 40% Rhone. “I treat each block of vineyards as a different kid that needs special attention and treatment to get the best out of each of them,” he said. He took me on a hair-raising ride up and down the steep slopes of the vineyard in what seemed like a runaway four wheel drive tractor- roller coaster. “The soil is the key here,” he yelled. “This is as close as you get to the limestone of the great Rhone Valley of France.” Halter does sell its own branded wines and I would recommend the 2006 Syrah blend, with Syrah, Malbec and Mourvedre.

Other wineries worth noting are Tablas Creek founded by the Haas and Perrin Families from France, a world class Chateauneuf-Du-Pape style vineyard. After years of searching for just the right wine country for this style of wine, they found their location on the West Side of Paso Robles. Robert Haas and his son Jason, are Rhone style wine experts, Robert Haas was recently honored as Wine Industry Person of the Year. A small 40 acre winery to try is AJB Vineyards, with an Italian approach, growing Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Zinfandel.

When you go exploring Paso Robles Wine Country, be sure to check out the palatial La Bellasera Hotel and Suites. Ask for one of the affordable suites with a whirlpool spa in the front room complete with roman columns and scenic backdrop. It fits four if you like company. When finished with your bath, robes are at your fingertips. A dining experience awaits in the Enoteca Restaurant and wine bar, with an extensive list featuring, of course, Paso Robles Wines. For more, access www.labellasera.com. Be sure to navigate the new wine country website at www.pasowine.com. It is a virtual experience unlike any other I have seen.

Wine Bytes
Downtown Fallbrook has its next Wine & A Bite Artwalk Sat. Aug. 15 from 5 to 7pm. Stroll, nibble and taste Fallbrook Winery at participating stores. $20. advance, $25. at the door. Call 877-451-3282.

WineSellar and Brasserie in Sorrento Valley, San Diego is presenting a Mod vs. Traditional Chardonnay Tasting Sat. Aug. 15 from 11:30am to 2pm. Six wines offered for a $32. fee. Reservations at 858-450-9557.

A Sights and Sips Hornblower San Diego Cruise is coming Sat. Aug. 22 from 5:30 to 8pm. It’s a floating happy hour with 4 different wine tastes. $30. ea. Details at 619-955-8884.

Reds, Whites and Green, a Culinary Adventure, happens Thurs. Aug. 27 from 4:30 to 8:30pm at Bernardo Winery in Rancho Bernardo. It’s an elegant fund-raiser with gourmet foods, fine wines, microbrew, health and wellness services and products, to benefit the Poway School District. $45. pp in advance, $50. at the door. Contact 858-668-2273.

Orfila Winery in Escondido celebrates their annual Grape Stomp Sat. Aug. 29 from 4 to 8pm. Grape stomping in huge old wine barrels, full dinner buffet, wine tasting and dancing to live music. Meet Don Reha, the winemaker. $85. ea. Tickets purchased at 877-727-9463. or on line at www.orfila.com.

Top Ten Wine Tastings 1st Half of 2009

by Frank Mangio
What a wonderful last six months for the wine experience it has been. Of course the recession has hurt wine sales a bit and on the retail level, the discount coupons and price incentives were in evidence. But if you’re like me and saw the glass as half full and not half empty, it’s been a breakthrough 6 months, with biodynamic style vineyards growing, alcohol content moderating and the rise of winning Temecula wineries.

Then there is the huge growth in Paso Robles, and yes, the Napa Valley renaissance of young brilliant winemakers. Put it all together and you have to be happy with where we are with wine.

I reported on some 400 wine bars, resorts, restaurants, special tasting events and wineries, tasting many hundreds of bottles in the past 6 months. Price to value and availability were important. I favor a less complicated 1 to 5, “bad to excellent” rating and choose not to rank my top ten wines. All of the following are listed alphabetically, and were brilliantly crafted. Prices are suggested retail.


Francesco Mazzei and his Tuscan Fonterutoli Chianti Classic0 2005 is the only European wine in the Top Ten Tastings from the first half of 2009.


Chateau St. Michelle Col Solare, Red Mt.Washington. 2005. $75. Accented aromas of black cherry, dark chocolate and rich spices. A partnership of St. Michelle and Tuscany ’s Marchesi Antinori blending 71% Cabernet, 25% Merlot and 4% Cab Franc. www.ste-michelle.com.

Denner Viognier, Paso Robles CA. 2008. $30. Splashes of peach, yellow apple and tropical scents lead the way for this complex, pleasing white, sure to challenge Chardonnay for domination. West side winery, growing in stature and popularity. www.dennervineyards.com.

Ferrari-Carano Siena, Sonoma Ca. 2007. $23. If you enjoy a blend, you will love this low priced Italian style red, with 78% Sangiovese and 22% Malbec. Great care in handling and barreling. No better with Italian dishes. A staple in my collection. www.ferrari-carano.com

Justin Isosceles, Paso Robles CA. 2006. $62. Intense flavors of 86% Cabernet, 9% Cab Franc and 5% Merlot that adjusts with each vintage based on Justin’s experts from around the world. A work of art that only gets better with age. 24 months in French Oak barrels. Amazing retention of superior taste once opened. www.justinwine.com.

La Cereza Viognier, Temecula CA. 2008. $24.95. Surprise grand best-of-show white at the recent Critics Challenge International in San Diego , this off-dry Viognier is rich, complex and perfumed with tropical accents of apricot and orange. Continues on the palate with fresh peach. Perfect time of the year to enjoy! www.lacerezawinery.com.

Marilyn Remarke Grenache, Monterey CA. 2006. $45. France ’s Rhone Valley grapes work very well here and this noble presentation achieves excellence with its 6th vintage of lovable Grenache. Limted to just 400 cases but worth the search. Power and finesse in a bottle. www.remarkewines.com.

Mazzei Fonterutoli Chianti Classico, Tuscany Italy. 2005. $24.99. Ancestors were the fathers of chianti wines. 24 generations later, exciting earth and minerality in bouquet and taste with 100% Sangiovese grapes from Castellina in Chianti. www.palmbayimports.com.

Pedroncelli Dry Creek Zinfandel, Sonoma CA. 2006. $18. Cheers to this winery for its economy pricing with quality in its bottles. Jammy and concentrated fruit from one of the pioneer Zin families in Sonoma . Their “Mother Clone” Zin adds another dimension to the lineup www.pedroncelli.com.

Thornton Nebbiolo, Temecula CA. 2006. $32. Northern Italian varietal, California style. Winemaker Don Reha achieves singular success with this luscious, wide-body grape. Rich, black fruit with bursts of cherry, plum and leather. Direct sales only. Access at www.thorntonwine.com.

ZD Pinot Noir, Napa Valley CA. 2007. $40. Making great wine on the Silverado Trail of Napa is nothing new for ZD. Dark, ruby red in color and character, this example of the “Queen of Wines” is exotic and demands attention with its silky, well integrated tannins. www.zdwines.com.

Wine Bytes
La Cereza Winery in Temecula returns the great Spanish Flemenco guitarist BENISE in concert with his supporting cast, Sat. July 18 with doors open at 5:30 and Benise appearing at 8:30pm. This Vegas style show is filled with visual and musical surprises, including the master electric cellist Marston Smith. Auction item money raised will benefit California Family Life Center . Items include: an African Safari! Dinner prices include individual and VIP tables plus a Benise meet and greet in La Cereza’s Barrel Room. Admission starts at $55. with tickets available at 951-699-6952 or www.lacerezawinery.com.

A Bastille Day celebration is planned for Sat. July 11, 4 to 8pm at the Fairbanks Ranch clubhouse in Rancho Sante Fe. Enjoy wine tasting, food, live entertainment and auction items. Donation of $125. pp goes to the Southern Caregiver Resource Center. Call 858-268-4432.

Free jazz on Sundays is back at Falkner Winery starting Sun. July 12 and through September, 12 to 3pm . Jazz saxman Jason Weber plays. Concert style seating. Details at 951-676-8231.

The Summer Legacy dinner featuring owners Gerry and Rosie Wilson is Sat. evening July 18 at Wilson Creek Winery in Temecula. For complete details and menu, call 951-699-WINE.

Wines to Taste Now

These premium wines have recently been released and are superior in taste and value. They all can be opened and enjoyed now:

Caliza Paso Robles 2006 Syrah. $45. A beautiful wine from the west side of Paso. Amazing texture and finish. Big fruity mouth-feel at 16.5% alcohol. Winner Best of Class and Sweepstakes Award best red at the recent San Francisco competition. www.calizawinery.com.

Chateau St. Michelle Washington 2005 Col Solare. $75. Acclaimed blend with the hand of one of Italy’s finest winemakers, Piero Antinori of Tuscany. 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 4% Cab Franc, has distinct aromas and taste of black cherry, berry and dark chocolate. A masterpiece. www.ste-michelle.com.

Grgich Hills Napa Valley 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon. $60. 21 months in French Oak with natural organic and biodynamic growing techniques. Superior balance of acid, fruit and tannins. www.grgich.com.

Justin Paso Robles 2006 Isosceles. $62. The ’05 made my top ten tastings and this release is even better! Isosceles is 86% Cabernet, 9% Cab Franc and 5% Merlot and is always best when aged beyond its release date. www.justinwine.com.

Thornton Temecula Valley 2006 Nebbiolo. $32. The venerable grape of the legendary Italian wines Barolo and Barbaresco but with a value price. Thornton’s Don Reha nails it with a ripeness and maturity matching the Italians. Best of class at the 2008 California State Fair. www.thorntonwine.com.

Frank Mangio's Top Ten Tastings for 2008

What a grand year for wine it has been! I attended approximately 250 wine events at wine shops, restaurants, hotels, wineries and special celebrations tasting thousands of wines and meeting hundreds of wine professionals with a passion for their wines.

I submit the following top ten tastings listed alphabetically without regard to rank. All were equally delicious and are an excellent representation of their varietals. Price to value and availability were also a consideration. Prices can vary and are generally what I have seen on web sites and in the stores that stock them.

This year I have listed two Sangioveses, one from Italy and another from Temecula. There are also two blends: an Italian “Super Tuscan” style from Temecula and a Bordeaux style from Paso Robles. A Napa Cabernet and Chardonanay, an Oregon Pinot Noir, a Central Coast Zinfandel, a San Diego County Viognier and a Sonoma Petite Sirah complete the ten. Enjoy!

Clos LaChance Hummingbord Series Zinfandel,Central Coast CA., 2005. $18. A rare Zin with moderate alcohol which gave it a delicious European style flavor. Aged in natural oak for 14 months. Notes of wild cherry and raspberry. Oak spice on the finish. www.clos.com.

Erath Pinot Noir, Dundee Oregon, 2006. $19. The cornerstone of Erath’s wine portfolio and that of Oregon, this Pinot floats into the palate with luscious ripe strawberries and a slight but beautiful hint of caramel. Buoyant acidity. An artful wine. www.erath.com.

Falkner Super Tuscan Amante, Temecula CA. 2005. $39.95. The signature blend of Sangiovese, with some Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Robust and elegant. Excellent balance. Medium bodied mouthfeel enhances a variety of food pairings. www.falknerwinery.com

Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay, Napa Valley Ca., 2006. $42. A venerable, legendary name and hero of the ’76 Paris Tasting that put Napa Valley on the world wine map, Grgich produces its first Chardonnay that is both organic and biodynamic with no artificial enhancers. Alive with delicious acidity. Notes of lemon zest, flowers and honey. Elegance shines. www.grgich.com.

Justin Isosceles, Paso Robles, 2005. $65. A banner vintage in Paso, carefully crafted pruning and perfect crop levels, produced a soft, fruit forward entry with complexity and promise. Aromas of boysenberry, mocha, mint and cassis make this blend an event to remember. This wine will get even better with more aging, up to 15 years.

Pedroncelli Petite Sirah, Sonoma, Ca., 2005.$15. Superb value for this vintage. Rich with ripe blackberry, concentrated flavors, deep and complex. Dry Creek Valley aged for 23 months. www.pedroncelli.com.

Orfila Estate Lotus “67” Viognier, San Pasqual Valley, CA. 2007. $23. The Rhone Valley white that is the talk of the industry and no one does it better than Orfila. A blend of Viognier, Marsanne and Rousanne. The perfect 40 acre hillside for this exotic varietal with its tropical aromas and tastes. Earlier vintage won gold in France. www.orfila.com.

Peppoli Chianti Classico, Tuscany Italy, 2005. $23. Delivers classic Chianti earth-taste. Pronounced floral and mineral notes. Medium to full-bodied, with silky texture. Lots to enjoy here. Wide distribution. Wine Spectator favorite. www.winespectator.com.

South Coast Winery Wild Horse Peak Sangiovese, Temecula CA., 2005. $34. Best of Class in California competition, the grapes are grown in 2,200 feet altitude and steep terrain. Unrestrained taste, concentrated and uniquely structured. Winery was awarded the state winery of the year at the ’08 California State Fair competition. www.southcoastwinery.com

Z D Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, CA., 2006. $50. Dark velvet, stunning Cab, with a heavy scent of berry nectar. Explosive entrance to the palate. Rich coffee, chocolate hints. Balanced and drinkable now and will age gracefully for up to the next ten years. Handcrafted, with two years in oak. www.zdwines.com.
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WINE BYTES

WineSellar and Brasserie in Sorrento Valley San Diego has planned a French Style wine tasting on Sat. Jan. 3 from 11:30 to 2pm. Taste Burgundy, Bordeaux and Rhone Valley favorites. $20. ea. Another $12.50 for lunch. Call 858-450-9557.

Il Fornaio in Del Mar beigns its 2009 “Festa Regionale” dinners from Mon. Jan. 5 through Sun. Jan. 18. Food and wine from the Trentino-Alto Adige region will be featured. Drink Pinot Noir and Pinot Grigio. Reservations call 1-888-ITALIAN.

Bacchus Wine Market downtown San Diego has a Piedmont Italy wine event on Fri. Jan. 9 from 4 to 8pm. Wines featuring Barolo, Barbaresco and Barbera will be tasted. Details by calling 619-236-0005.

Falkner Winery in Temecula offers a Wine Appreciation class taught by in-house Sommelier George Myers on Sat. Jan. 17 from 10:30 to 2:30pm. Cost is $45. pp. Call 951-676-8231 for more.

New Guide Makes It Easy to Enjoy Wine Country

When Bob and Cindy Rhodes (pictured) set out to write a guide book about Temecula wineries, they took a little different tack with The Grape Escapes 2 ($19.95). They actually visited the wineries, tasted the wine and talked with the owners and winemakers. “We are not connoisseurs, just a normal couple who enjoy wine,” explained Cindy.

After tasting 250 wines and going to nearly four dozen wineries, the husband and wife team have made it easy for visitors to figure out where to go. “There are so many wineries in Temecula now it’s no longer easy to go for just one or two days,” Cindy says. She points out that the 271-page book is not just about wine. There are sections in the book covering best picnic area, restaurants, delis and shopping. She’s even included a special chapter on “Going in Style,” after experiencing Keyways Vineyard & Winery’s renovated bathrooms. Cindy said Keyways has plenty of dark wood to appeal to the male tastes. But it also has lots of “little touches” that only a female could appreciate, including a lady’s room with hammered copper stalls and Brazilian onyx sink countertop that is lit from below. “Women are more interested in (a first class bathroom) than guys are,” she said.

The book can be found at Temecula area wineries (Keyways, Oak Mountain, Ponte and Orfila) Barron’s Marketplace on Rancho California Road , the Temecula Valley Visitors Center in Old Town Temecula and online at www.thegrapeescapes.com

Italian Grape from Chianti Revealed in California

LEON SANTORO, the FAMED "RHONE RANGER" TASTING THE NECTAR OF ORFILA WINERY (Foto by Frank)

by Frank Mangio

Italian winemakers are a romantic lot. The language of wine, especially in Tuscany, is meandering poetry, words of love and some hyberbole.

Take Chianti, or more recently, Chianti Classico. Over the years Chianti was getting a bad name, so some of the more influential vintners coaxed the government to crack down and raise the standards. Now, Chianti can only be made in a district called Chianti Classico. It not named for the grape, which in my judgment is one of the most lovely in the world: Sangiovese. Sangiovese has relaxed elegance with a taste of the terroir, the earth from which it was raised. You will taste a lively acidity that begs for cheese, olive oil and rustic breads. I find that newly won disciples of wine that may not know wine terminology, just simply like it a lot!

Sangiovese in California is the focus of this week’s column. From north to south, unlike Italy, this grape is boldly proclaimed on the label of an increasing number of wineries and is gaining in popularity. In the north, look to Sonoma for some delicious examples as wineries like Pedroncelli grow it in Dry Creek Valley near Geyserville. Their ’05 is just out and is pleasing to the palate. The Seghesio family, back in the late 1800’s, was bottling a Chianti containing a blend of Sangiovese, considered America’s oldest Sangiovese planting. On the Central Coast, a small winery, Javardi in Paso Robles has an ’04 Sangiovese that is tasting beautifully.

I am most excited about what I see and taste in Southern California, namely Temecula’s wineries like Palumbo Family, La Cereza, Falkner, Briar Rose and others. In Escondido, Orfila Vineyards and Winery with Leon Santoro ( see accompanying photo) brings 13 years of Sangiovese love to the table. Leon himself comes from Tuscany. In 1995, his Sangiovese “Di Collina” (means hillside) won Gold at the San Francisco Fair. He smiled and said “we would have won double gold then but the Tuscan vineyard we received our plantings from, Fattoria Le Bocce, won with their ’93.” Each year since that first accolade, Orfila’s Sangiovese has medaled, including five double golds. See more at www.orfila.com.

Italian and Rhone Valley French style grape-growing represent the single best hope to put Southern California wineries on the map. The wave of wineries gaining success with Sangiovese is a real trend that is here to stay.

One Closed Case of 1982 Chateau Mouton Rothschild...
What’s it Worth?

Twelve bottles, a case of the above named wine treasures, have been sitting since 1984 in perfectly temperature controlled storage, owned by Gary Parker of WineSellar Brasserie in San Diego. This “vintage of the century” was one of the first to receive a 100 point rating. The wine, in the Bordeaux appellation, is considered a benchmark for the greatest wines ever made. This unopened case is being offered sealed and aged for some 25 years. A single bottle has been priced at an average $2,000.

The public has a unique opportunity to participate in an on-line auction for this case of wine. Between now and midnight March 20, Parker will be taking offers for this rare case. “I urge you to make your best offer right away…I will certainly envy the fortunate person who will ultimately possess one of the most amazing cases of wine on the planet” he said. You can send your offers or any questions you may have to Parker at GParker@WineSellar.com. His phone is 858-450-9557.

Lavish Praise for Addison’s Star Sommelier

Above Photo: Jesse Rodriguez
Review by Frank Mangio

I kept seeing his name alongside many superlatives in a number of wine publications: Wine Spectator, Food & Wine Magazine, Wine & Spirits Magazine and Esquire. He was crossing my radar in a big way and I had to meet him.

Jesse Rodriguez could be a national politician in the best sense of the word.
He’s a non-stop advocate for his restaurants at the Grand Del Mar, San Diego’s newest luxury hotel, and for his wines, all 21,000 on the property.

Addison is the trophy restaurant of fine cuisine where Jesse can be seen and heard a good deal of the time, educating guests on his wines and the top-shelf menu. The cuisine is the creation of William Bradley, formerly of Loews in Coronado and the Phoenician in Scottsdale.

Addison’s décor is “Renaissance Mediterranean” and was designed by Addison Mizner, a brilliant architectural artist who made a name for himself in the luxury landmarks of South Florida. The decorative arts of Spain, Portugal, Venice and Morocco are all richly in evidence in all focal points of the Grand Del Mar.

The main 2,500 bottle wine room, adjacent to Addison’s dining room, is appointed with Jerusalem limestone, trimmed with carved Italian stone. Guests can view this room through triple arch windows. A fine wine experience for all palates is assured with a worldwide collection of top vintage varietals.

Jesse personally selected the following wines to compliment my four course dinner: first course of Forest Mushroom Velloute was washed down with La Scarpetta, Vino de Tavola Bianco, 2006 from Friuli, Italy. The second course, the Foie Gras De Canard ( lentil, port wine sauce, with bacon mousse) called for Elk Cove Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley Oregon, 2006. Course number three, Wild Scottish Salmon, with roasted eggplant and toasted pine nuts was presented with Cos D’Estrournel, Deuxiemes Cru, France 1996. Final main course was a Filet of Natural Beef with smoked potato puree. The wine was a Marchesi Antinori “Ornellaia” from Bolgheri, 1998. To all this magnificence, Jesse adds a friendly smile with heartfelt passion. Who could ask for anything more from this world-class sommelier at the lovely Addison, Grand Resort, Del Mar. Find out more at www.addisondelmar.com.

Paso Robles Comes Calling in San Diego
There is plenty to like about Paso Robles, California’s fastest growing wine region. Located on both sides of Highway 101, North of San Luis Obispo, “Paso’s” 170 plus wineries are driven to the high quality results that are in most every bottle. On Wednesday the 27th of this month, be prepared to become a disciple when over 40 of the best-of- the- best, offer tastings from some 150 different wines, at the popular San Diego Wine and Culinary Center on Harbor Drive in San Diego, across from the convention Center.

After the trade and media meet and greet, the public is invited to taste the wines from 6pm to 8pm for a $35. advance purchase ticket price. Check out www.pasowine.com. Heavy appetizers will be served with the wines.
You can also call 800-549-WINE.

Congratulations go out to Robert Haas of Tablas Creek Vineyard. He was honored as the 2007 Wine Person of the Year in Paso Robles for his leadership and dedication to the region.

Wines for your Must-Try List

by Frank Mangio

Over the holidays, I had the pleasure to attend parties, dinners at homes and lovely restaurants, as I am sure most of you did also. A select group of wines from the latest releases caught my eye and palate that I want to share with you.

My goal in wine consumption is to inventory a “core” group of wines that I can count on to be superior in taste and value, but leave about 40% of my wine budget for wine to “explore,” new wines that I not familiar with. The following would be “explore” wines that were very impressive:

§ Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc ‘07, Marlborough, New Zealand $20. Perennial favorite, focused citrus with crisp acidity.

§ Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico ’04, Tuscany, Italy. $16. A surprisingly pleasant discovery from the one of the first families of wine in Italy. Smooth entry with lovely earthy mouthfeel.

§ Cuvaison Merlot ’01, Carneros, Napa Valley CA. (latest release is ’04) $29. Highly acclaimed, bright fruit, low production.

§ Elk Cove Pinot Noir ‘06, Willamette Valley Oregon. $29. Introduced to me by Sommelier Jesse Rodriguez at Addison, The Grand Resort, Del Mar. Careful hand-worked grapes from the Northwest Winery of the year.

Win a Cruise to Ensenada, Wine, Food, more This Saturday

Mention this blog entry when you visit the Taste Of Wine TV booth Saturday at the San Diego Bay Food and Wine Festival, and you can enter our special drawings for wine, dinners, and a Cruise to Ensenada. (Must be 21 or over to participate. (Winners will be contacted by cellphone during the festival via text messaging, or e-mail). Ensenada cruise courtesy of Kimberly at www.BraggAboutTravel.com

11:15 Falkner Winery, Temecula

11:30 Opolo Winery, Paso Robles

11:45 Pedroncelli Winery, Sonoma

12: noon Williamette Valley Winery, Oregon

12:30 Ghiardelli Chocolates

12:45 La Cereza, Temecula

1p.m. Nature Sweet

1:15 Vina Robles, Paso Robles

1:30 Flora Springs, Napa

Still time to get tickets for the biggest wine even on the West Coast:
www.WorldOfWineEvents.com