by Frank Mangio
I can feel it coming. Warm weather is arriving as May skips in, the garden is blooming with a gorgeous kaleidoscope of colors, and my palate is calling for a chilled, white wine at the end of the day. This is happening more frequently when all I seek is a “cool-down” from a garden variety wine, maybe a Chardonnay or a Viognier, but more likely a Riesling.
I know I speak volumes on reds, especially Italian. But even Italians stop, smell and taste the whites they make. California is undergoing a transition from a one-white wine state with oceans of Chardonnay, to a mix of choices that include: Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Gris (Pinot Grigio in Italy), Gewurztraminer, Albarino, Chenin Blanc and Rousanne to name a few.
They all have their followers and I’ve done my share of following Viognier, which originates in the Rhone Valley of France. The complex tropical notes of this lovely varietal has been touted as the successor to Chardonnay for many years, without doing much to move up the ladder.
For my money and pleasure, the real contender is Riesling, and this German midas touch is no better exemplified, not in California but in Washington, with Eroica ($18.). The team of Chateau Ste. Michelle’s master winemaker Bob Bertheau and German Riesling wine guru Ernst Loosen, maker of his own Dr. Loosen Riesling Kabinett from Mosel, are beyond compare.
Great Riesling has soaring acidity, flavor from down deep in the earth, beautifully balanced with low alcohol. “I have learned from Doctor Loosen, how to protect Riesling fruit purity,” said Bertheau. “This assures a fresh fruit-driven Riesling.”
Expect to enjoy the subtle, dry fruit flavors of apricot, pear, mango and melon. Served cold, 47 to 50 degrees, you will cool down, calm down and hear running water over mountain streams. PROST! More at www.eroicawines.com.
The Brother Act at North County Wine Co.
I don’t know of anyone who enjoys being on the other side of the bar in their own wine shop than Jim and Bill Tobin of North County Wine Company in San Marcos.
Every time I look over their wine tasting “newsletter” I nearly double over with laughter. The “writer” is their intern “Enrico” who skewers his bosses every chance he gets. On a recent choice of a blend at a wine event, Enrico snorted that “a frog with a blender would do better.”
The reality is that the brothers Tobin offer great wines that are exciting and attractive, usually 7 generous tastes on Fridays from 4 to 9pm, plus appetizers, for just $10! On the night I was there, tastes included: Chalone, Rosenblum, Newton, Provenance, Sterling and a “candy bar in a bottle” Desiree Dessert Wine ($15.97), a steal. The Tobin’s motto is: “great wines, great prices, guaranteed.” See their site at www.northcountywinecompany.com.
Bill and Jim Tobin are the proprietors of North County Wine Company in San Marcos.
Wine Bytes
La Costa Wine Company has Orin Swift Wines on Fri. May 13 from 6 to 8:30pm. It’s a blend style winery moving up fast. $25. pp. Details at 760-431-8646.
Make a Wish has its 3rd annual Roll Out the Barrel benefit at Humphreys in Pt. Loma Sat. May 14 from 5 to 8pm. Top wines and chefs participate. Cost is $125., $200. for a VIP ticket. Check out www.makeawishgala.com for more.
Wine Styles in Encinitas is hosting a North County Wine Tour Sun. May 15 from 10:15 to 4:30pm. It starts from their shop. Cost is $60. for transportation, tasting 3 wineries and a special pizza lunch, all included. Limit 25 guests. Call 760-633-0057.
RELM Wine Bar in downtown Carlsbad is bringing in 10 wine reps for an unlimited tasting Mon. May 16 from 6 to 8pm. $25. cost. No RSVP. Details at 760-814-1198.
Firefly Grill and Wine Bar in Encinitas has booked Pine Ridge for a wine dinner on Wed. May 18 at 6:30pm. Cost is $75. Call 760-635-1066 for an RSVP.
Vigiluccis in Carlsbad by the sea on the Coast Highway has a native Tuscan Wine Dinner Fri. May 20 at 6:30pm. $80. ea. Four courses including Risotto alla Salsiccia and Grilled Bone-in Veal Chop. Wines include Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello Di Montalcino. For an RSVP, call 760-434-2580.
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