California Whites and a German in Washington

by Frank Mangio

I can feel it coming. Warm weather is arriving as May skips in, the garden is blooming with a gorgeous kaleidoscope of colors, and my palate is calling for a chilled, white wine at the end of the day. This is happening more frequently when all I seek is a “cool-down” from a garden variety wine, maybe a Chardonnay or a Viognier, but more likely a Riesling.

I know I speak volumes on reds, especially Italian. But even Italians stop, smell and taste the whites they make. California is undergoing a transition from a one-white wine state with oceans of Chardonnay, to a mix of choices that include: Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Gris (Pinot Grigio in Italy), Gewurztraminer, Albarino, Chenin Blanc and Rousanne to name a few.

They all have their followers and I’ve done my share of following Viognier, which originates in the Rhone Valley of France. The complex tropical notes of this lovely varietal has been touted as the successor to Chardonnay for many years, without doing much to move up the ladder.

For my money and pleasure, the real contender is Riesling, and this German midas touch is no better exemplified, not in California but in Washington, with Eroica ($18.). The team of Chateau Ste. Michelle’s master winemaker Bob Bertheau and German Riesling wine guru Ernst Loosen, maker of his own Dr. Loosen Riesling Kabinett from Mosel, are beyond compare.

Great Riesling has soaring acidity, flavor from down deep in the earth, beautifully balanced with low alcohol. “I have learned from Doctor Loosen, how to protect Riesling fruit purity,” said Bertheau. “This assures a fresh fruit-driven Riesling.”

Expect to enjoy the subtle, dry fruit flavors of apricot, pear, mango and melon. Served cold, 47 to 50 degrees, you will cool down, calm down and hear running water over mountain streams. PROST! More at www.eroicawines.com.

The Brother Act at North County Wine Co.

I don’t know of anyone who enjoys being on the other side of the bar in their own wine shop than Jim and Bill Tobin of North County Wine Company in San Marcos.

Every time I look over their wine tasting “newsletter” I nearly double over with laughter. The “writer” is their intern “Enrico” who skewers his bosses every chance he gets. On a recent choice of a blend at a wine event, Enrico snorted that “a frog with a blender would do better.”

The reality is that the brothers Tobin offer great wines that are exciting and attractive, usually 7 generous tastes on Fridays from 4 to 9pm, plus appetizers, for just $10! On the night I was there, tastes included: Chalone, Rosenblum, Newton, Provenance, Sterling and a “candy bar in a bottle” Desiree Dessert Wine ($15.97), a steal. The Tobin’s motto is: “great wines, great prices, guaranteed.” See their site at www.northcountywinecompany.com.

Bill and Jim Tobin are the proprietors of North County Wine Company in San Marcos.

Wine Bytes

La Costa Wine Company has Orin Swift Wines on Fri. May 13 from 6 to 8:30pm. It’s a blend style winery moving up fast. $25. pp. Details at 760-431-8646.

Make a Wish has its 3rd annual Roll Out the Barrel benefit at Humphreys in Pt. Loma Sat. May 14 from 5 to 8pm. Top wines and chefs participate. Cost is $125., $200. for a VIP ticket. Check out www.makeawishgala.com for more.

Wine Styles in Encinitas is hosting a North County Wine Tour Sun. May 15 from 10:15 to 4:30pm. It starts from their shop. Cost is $60. for transportation, tasting 3 wineries and a special pizza lunch, all included. Limit 25 guests. Call 760-633-0057.

RELM Wine Bar in downtown Carlsbad is bringing in 10 wine reps for an unlimited tasting Mon. May 16 from 6 to 8pm. $25. cost. No RSVP. Details at 760-814-1198.

Firefly Grill and Wine Bar in Encinitas has booked Pine Ridge for a wine dinner on Wed. May 18 at 6:30pm. Cost is $75. Call 760-635-1066 for an RSVP.

Vigiluccis in Carlsbad by the sea on the Coast Highway has a native Tuscan Wine Dinner Fri. May 20 at 6:30pm. $80. ea. Four courses including Risotto alla Salsiccia and Grilled Bone-in Veal Chop. Wines include Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello Di Montalcino. For an RSVP, call 760-434-2580.

Thornton Winery Brings Jazz Greats to Temecula

by Frank Mangio
The tradition began back in 1988, when owner John Thornton came up with a then novel idea, offer local music on weekends with his wine and food menu to attract new customers. “It started simple 22 years ago. We didn’t charge for admission to the concerts. We just wanted customers to try our wines,” said John as we drank a glass of his 2006 Nebbiolo wine. “Over time, the shows became more organized and took on new life as top Jazz musicians were booked in, the audiences grew and we offered dinner and wine packages in our outdoor fountain terrace setting. This year we have 21 performances”

This year’s concert lineup is the strongest statement yet of the superb musicians that Thornton Winery attracts. Their wine and supper packages provide a total music, food and wine experience with winemaker Don Reha presenting his new releases and chef Steve Pickell of the 5 star Café Champagne pairing perfect menu selections.

The concert schedule goes from April 25 to October 16. I asked Steve Thornton and Events Manager Tonya Wake who the one artist is that has played the most years and is a popular favorite with the 40 members of the concert staff. Without hesitation they both agreed it is premier sax man Dave Koz. “He has been a major part of our success with his warm, personal approach to performing,” commented Steve. “This year he is playing two days in a row, Saturday and Sunday August 28 and 29, with Jonathan Butler.”

Tonya, who is like an orchestra leader, conducting each concert to perfection for 16 years as Events Manager, agreed that Dave Koz is the easiest to work with. John added “his parents, when they were alive, used to come to the concerts and bring me chocolate chip cookies because they knew how much I liked them.” Under Tonya’s guiding hand, all Thornton concerts are a relaxed, intimate affair with a customer and artist-friendly environment. For the full schedule of performers in this 22nd year of the best names in Jazz, go to www.thorntonwine.com. Or call 951-699-0099 and talk to Tonya Wake, the “orchestra leader.”

Dave Koz leads this year’s 22nd Annual Thornton Concert Series.

For Steaks, Seafood and Spirits – Go West
It was a night to remember recently at West Steak, Seafood and Spirits in Carlsbad as the legendary Caymus Vineyards of Napa Valley showcased their premiere wines, paired with a 5 course dinner of unmatched quality by Executive Chef Eugenio Martignago. General Manager Tom Bertrand continues to position West as the quintessential restaurant for taste and dining trends.

This commitment to excellence has been rewarded by the popular Open Table award to West as the #1 Restaurant in San Diego County for 2009. The full house of diners that came to the wine event, led by Caymus Regional Manager Mike Gioia, savored the Caymus 2007 Special Selection Cabernet with Chef Eugenio’s main entrée of Seared Prime Certified Angus Filet Mignon on a bed of Braised Oxtail and celery root puree. The service sparkled as wine and food entrees were on the table on time and at peak taste.

The extensive wine list at West brims with wines of value and premium notoriety. From a delicious, budget style Castello Banfi Centine by the glass to a glorious Joseph Phelps Insignia Meritage, you will find one you will truly love. Check Happy Hour Specials for exceptional bargains. Call West at 760-930-9100.

Wine Bytes
Bacchus Wine Market in the Gaslamp district downtown San Diego is presenting wines from Northern Italy Fri. Apr. 30 from 4 to 9pm. Taste Barbera, Dolcetto, Valpolicella and more. Cost is $15. Details at 619-236-0005.

Lorimar Winery in Temecula Wine Country kicks of their event schedule with Kansas City BBQ, Wine and Blues in the vineyards, Sat. May 1 from 3-8pm. Tickets are $55. pp. Kids under 12 get in free. Smokin’ good tri-tip, ribs and chicken. More info at 951-240-5177.

Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido has a Saxon Brown wine tasting Thurs. May 6, 5:30-7:30pm. This is Sonoma style single vineyard wine like Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Chardonnay. $10. advance, $15. at the door. Learn more at 760-745-1200.

Mama’s Day, the 19th annual benefit for Mama’s Kitchen providing meals for the needy, is Fri. May 7 from 5:30 – 9:30pm at the Hyatt Regency in San Diego. More than 70 of San Diego’s top restaurant chefs will participate, with auctions, music and wine. Pre-sale is $125. pp. At the door it’s $150. RSVP at 619-233-6262.

Roll Out the Barrel returns again this year Sat. May 8 from 5 – 8pm at Humphries by the Bay in the Pt. Loma district of San Diego. Encinitas Meritage Wine Market is helping to coordinate the Make-A-Wish benefit that has 20 restaurants and 40 wineries participating. Tickets are $100. ea. VIP benefits for $175. Go to the website at www.makeawishgala.com.