California Whites and a German in Washington

by Frank Mangio

I can feel it coming. Warm weather is arriving as May skips in, the garden is blooming with a gorgeous kaleidoscope of colors, and my palate is calling for a chilled, white wine at the end of the day. This is happening more frequently when all I seek is a “cool-down” from a garden variety wine, maybe a Chardonnay or a Viognier, but more likely a Riesling.

I know I speak volumes on reds, especially Italian. But even Italians stop, smell and taste the whites they make. California is undergoing a transition from a one-white wine state with oceans of Chardonnay, to a mix of choices that include: Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Gris (Pinot Grigio in Italy), Gewurztraminer, Albarino, Chenin Blanc and Rousanne to name a few.

They all have their followers and I’ve done my share of following Viognier, which originates in the Rhone Valley of France. The complex tropical notes of this lovely varietal has been touted as the successor to Chardonnay for many years, without doing much to move up the ladder.

For my money and pleasure, the real contender is Riesling, and this German midas touch is no better exemplified, not in California but in Washington, with Eroica ($18.). The team of Chateau Ste. Michelle’s master winemaker Bob Bertheau and German Riesling wine guru Ernst Loosen, maker of his own Dr. Loosen Riesling Kabinett from Mosel, are beyond compare.

Great Riesling has soaring acidity, flavor from down deep in the earth, beautifully balanced with low alcohol. “I have learned from Doctor Loosen, how to protect Riesling fruit purity,” said Bertheau. “This assures a fresh fruit-driven Riesling.”

Expect to enjoy the subtle, dry fruit flavors of apricot, pear, mango and melon. Served cold, 47 to 50 degrees, you will cool down, calm down and hear running water over mountain streams. PROST! More at www.eroicawines.com.

The Brother Act at North County Wine Co.

I don’t know of anyone who enjoys being on the other side of the bar in their own wine shop than Jim and Bill Tobin of North County Wine Company in San Marcos.

Every time I look over their wine tasting “newsletter” I nearly double over with laughter. The “writer” is their intern “Enrico” who skewers his bosses every chance he gets. On a recent choice of a blend at a wine event, Enrico snorted that “a frog with a blender would do better.”

The reality is that the brothers Tobin offer great wines that are exciting and attractive, usually 7 generous tastes on Fridays from 4 to 9pm, plus appetizers, for just $10! On the night I was there, tastes included: Chalone, Rosenblum, Newton, Provenance, Sterling and a “candy bar in a bottle” Desiree Dessert Wine ($15.97), a steal. The Tobin’s motto is: “great wines, great prices, guaranteed.” See their site at www.northcountywinecompany.com.

Bill and Jim Tobin are the proprietors of North County Wine Company in San Marcos.

Wine Bytes

La Costa Wine Company has Orin Swift Wines on Fri. May 13 from 6 to 8:30pm. It’s a blend style winery moving up fast. $25. pp. Details at 760-431-8646.

Make a Wish has its 3rd annual Roll Out the Barrel benefit at Humphreys in Pt. Loma Sat. May 14 from 5 to 8pm. Top wines and chefs participate. Cost is $125., $200. for a VIP ticket. Check out www.makeawishgala.com for more.

Wine Styles in Encinitas is hosting a North County Wine Tour Sun. May 15 from 10:15 to 4:30pm. It starts from their shop. Cost is $60. for transportation, tasting 3 wineries and a special pizza lunch, all included. Limit 25 guests. Call 760-633-0057.

RELM Wine Bar in downtown Carlsbad is bringing in 10 wine reps for an unlimited tasting Mon. May 16 from 6 to 8pm. $25. cost. No RSVP. Details at 760-814-1198.

Firefly Grill and Wine Bar in Encinitas has booked Pine Ridge for a wine dinner on Wed. May 18 at 6:30pm. Cost is $75. Call 760-635-1066 for an RSVP.

Vigiluccis in Carlsbad by the sea on the Coast Highway has a native Tuscan Wine Dinner Fri. May 20 at 6:30pm. $80. ea. Four courses including Risotto alla Salsiccia and Grilled Bone-in Veal Chop. Wines include Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello Di Montalcino. For an RSVP, call 760-434-2580.

Charm of Venice and Tuscany at Bella Dolce in Rancho Santa Fe

by Frank Mangio
Italy never looked or tasted as beautiful as it does at the new Dolce Pane E Vino in the Del Rayo Center in Rancho Santa Fe. Guests are literally transformed in this rustic, elegant creation that is at once a world of wine, a wine bar of elegance and a small-bites master restaurant with the charm of Venice and Tuscan surrounds.

Dolce Pane E Vino (sweet bread and wine) is the creation of Michael Melone and Dr. Anthony Smith who have carefully crafted an original Italian design unlike anything I have experienced. They bring a passion for the customer, cultivated from remarkable dining experiences worldwide. You’ll marvel at the tables that are crafted for sharing, and lighting that is linked in communal harmony, yet each element is its own artistic rendering. The entire atmosphere is an architectural triumph.

Dr. Anthony Smith and Michael Melone partnered to create Dolce Pane E Vino, a wine and cuisine restaurant experience unlike any other.

I would be remiss by not devoting space to the wine and cuisine. Wine flights of three offerings are paired with the meal as a delightful option, especially since bottles can be purchased that match the flavors. On the evening I visited, wines from Fort Ross, Wolf Family and Orin Swift were served and all had rich flavors to pair with an ever-evolving Mediterranean menu.

Dolce Pane E Vino is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday. Mondays just dinner is served. Local seasonal produce is used with the freshest quality available. Dolce is now booking inspiring wineries for special events including Laird Family Estate Wed. March 24 at 5:30pm with Rebbecca Laird. There is more to know at their website DolcePanEVino.com. The phone number is 858-832-1518.

New Wines and a Perfect Gift Idea
In the past 30 days I have tasted some 500 wines of note and the following wines were especially memorable:

- Castel Giocondo Brunello di Montalcino, Italy, 2004. $45. From the Frescobaldi family of traditional Italian winemaking with 100% four year aged Sangiovese. The first of the recently great harvest years in Tuscany. Gets greater with more aging.

- Chateau Tanunda Grand Barossa Shiraz, Australia, 2007. $19. This striking, flavorful wine comes from the oldest winery in the Aussie nation in the heart of the Barossa Valley. First vines were planted in 1845. Classic and refined.

- Leal San Benito Estate Grown Cabernet, Hollister Ca. 2006. $20. North Central Coast flavor of soft, rich intense wines. A cab that is delicious and easy on the palate.

- Louis Latour Beaune Burgundy, Cote-D’or, France. 2005. $39. Burgundian wines fathered the immensely popular Pinot Noirs of the West Coast of the U.S. Mellow cherry with a smoky licorice taste. Balanced, mellow tannins. ’05 was a golden harvest in France.

- Oak Mountain Meritage, Temecula, 2005. $42. One for the locals with a nicely calculated 40% Cabernet, 40% Cab Franc and 20% Merlot Bordeaux classic style. Long, smooth finish.

- Pedroncelli Block 007 Estate Vineyard Sonoma Cabernet, 2007. $25. Ninety one points in a major wine publication, this is 100% cab grape with 18 months in oak. Elegant premium quality.

- Rodney Strong Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, Sonoma 2008. $20. Another master stroke from winemaker Rick Sayres, pulling a premier harvest from this popular pinot area. Silky texture, floral accents and a hint of spice make this one a standard to look up to.

A personal expression on a bottle or glass makes the perfect gift to give for wine lovers.
Tom Bwarie of Bwarie Gift Baskets in Carlsbad (photo) has made hand engraving an art form. As a focal point of your custom gift basket order, this personalized service is free of charge. He showed me a popular new wine aerator that he is engraving for customers, the Soiree, a glass globe with an aeration chamber that is secured to the top of a wine bottle to enhance balance and flavor. He also does wine events where he quickly engraves the names of visitors on their tasting glasses. It’s a “take-home” gift that insures branding life for the hosts. Contact information is 760-730-1458 or access the website BWarieGiftBaskets.com

Wine Bytes
Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas is serving Italian “Succulent Sangioveses” at their weekly wine tasting on Fri. March 26 from 6 to 8pm. Check with them for price and the wine lineup. 760-479-2500.

Wine Styles in Encinitas has live jazz and wine with the flamenco group En Fuego, Fri. March 26, 6 to 8pm. An extensive menu of wines from around the world, with a small bite menu of cheeses and paninis. No cover charge. Call 760-633-0057.

The Wine Bank in the Gaslamp District of downtown San Diego has the Best of Italian Wines for its event of Sat. March 27 from 6 to 8pm. Names like Gaja, Masi Amarone and Sassicaia will be poured. $50. pp. RSVP on pre-purchase at 619-239-0334.

3rd Corner in Encinitas has a Hitching Post Wine Dinner coming on Tues. March 30 at 6pm for $65. ea. This was the Santa Barbara winery made famous in the movie “Sideways.” RSVP at 760-942-2104. The Hitching Post winemaker will also be at La Costa Wine Company on Wed. March 31 from 6 to 8pm. Cost is $20. For details call 760-431-8455.