California Whites and a German in Washington

by Frank Mangio

I can feel it coming. Warm weather is arriving as May skips in, the garden is blooming with a gorgeous kaleidoscope of colors, and my palate is calling for a chilled, white wine at the end of the day. This is happening more frequently when all I seek is a “cool-down” from a garden variety wine, maybe a Chardonnay or a Viognier, but more likely a Riesling.

I know I speak volumes on reds, especially Italian. But even Italians stop, smell and taste the whites they make. California is undergoing a transition from a one-white wine state with oceans of Chardonnay, to a mix of choices that include: Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Gris (Pinot Grigio in Italy), Gewurztraminer, Albarino, Chenin Blanc and Rousanne to name a few.

They all have their followers and I’ve done my share of following Viognier, which originates in the Rhone Valley of France. The complex tropical notes of this lovely varietal has been touted as the successor to Chardonnay for many years, without doing much to move up the ladder.

For my money and pleasure, the real contender is Riesling, and this German midas touch is no better exemplified, not in California but in Washington, with Eroica ($18.). The team of Chateau Ste. Michelle’s master winemaker Bob Bertheau and German Riesling wine guru Ernst Loosen, maker of his own Dr. Loosen Riesling Kabinett from Mosel, are beyond compare.

Great Riesling has soaring acidity, flavor from down deep in the earth, beautifully balanced with low alcohol. “I have learned from Doctor Loosen, how to protect Riesling fruit purity,” said Bertheau. “This assures a fresh fruit-driven Riesling.”

Expect to enjoy the subtle, dry fruit flavors of apricot, pear, mango and melon. Served cold, 47 to 50 degrees, you will cool down, calm down and hear running water over mountain streams. PROST! More at www.eroicawines.com.

The Brother Act at North County Wine Co.

I don’t know of anyone who enjoys being on the other side of the bar in their own wine shop than Jim and Bill Tobin of North County Wine Company in San Marcos.

Every time I look over their wine tasting “newsletter” I nearly double over with laughter. The “writer” is their intern “Enrico” who skewers his bosses every chance he gets. On a recent choice of a blend at a wine event, Enrico snorted that “a frog with a blender would do better.”

The reality is that the brothers Tobin offer great wines that are exciting and attractive, usually 7 generous tastes on Fridays from 4 to 9pm, plus appetizers, for just $10! On the night I was there, tastes included: Chalone, Rosenblum, Newton, Provenance, Sterling and a “candy bar in a bottle” Desiree Dessert Wine ($15.97), a steal. The Tobin’s motto is: “great wines, great prices, guaranteed.” See their site at www.northcountywinecompany.com.

Bill and Jim Tobin are the proprietors of North County Wine Company in San Marcos.

Wine Bytes

La Costa Wine Company has Orin Swift Wines on Fri. May 13 from 6 to 8:30pm. It’s a blend style winery moving up fast. $25. pp. Details at 760-431-8646.

Make a Wish has its 3rd annual Roll Out the Barrel benefit at Humphreys in Pt. Loma Sat. May 14 from 5 to 8pm. Top wines and chefs participate. Cost is $125., $200. for a VIP ticket. Check out www.makeawishgala.com for more.

Wine Styles in Encinitas is hosting a North County Wine Tour Sun. May 15 from 10:15 to 4:30pm. It starts from their shop. Cost is $60. for transportation, tasting 3 wineries and a special pizza lunch, all included. Limit 25 guests. Call 760-633-0057.

RELM Wine Bar in downtown Carlsbad is bringing in 10 wine reps for an unlimited tasting Mon. May 16 from 6 to 8pm. $25. cost. No RSVP. Details at 760-814-1198.

Firefly Grill and Wine Bar in Encinitas has booked Pine Ridge for a wine dinner on Wed. May 18 at 6:30pm. Cost is $75. Call 760-635-1066 for an RSVP.

Vigiluccis in Carlsbad by the sea on the Coast Highway has a native Tuscan Wine Dinner Fri. May 20 at 6:30pm. $80. ea. Four courses including Risotto alla Salsiccia and Grilled Bone-in Veal Chop. Wines include Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello Di Montalcino. For an RSVP, call 760-434-2580.

In the Beginning: The Robert Renzoni Story

by Frank Mangio

Picture if you would, gentle sloping hills with signature Sangiovese grapes providing a tapestry for a stone villa with a commanding view of the countryside.


In the barrel room, names like Sangiovese, Bellisimo, Moscato and Pinot Grigio tempt the visitor with a handsome parchment-like label with the proprietor’s name: Robert Renzoni. Are we in Tuscany or possibly north of Milan?

In Temecula, Robert Renzoni with his father Fred recently unveiled a Vineyard and Winery that footprints those lovely wineries that dot the Italian landscape. The Renzoni family involvement with wine goes back to 1886. Robert is 4th generation with a keen knowledge of the importance of family and historical tradition. It is this soul of Italian winemaking that supports Robert Renzoni Vineyards and will carry it to stardom in Temecula Wine Country.

Robert is no stranger to wine country. “I was with Leonesse Cellars as their sales manager and saw an opportunity to bring a new kind of winery to Temecula” he said. We are bringing a touch of Italy to Temecula. Our Sangiovese is old world style: a light to medium bodied table wine with plenty of flavor. Our focal point will be a Tuscan style two story villa which should be constructed next year, that will house a landmark 50 foot bell tower with a bell that’s’ been handed down through the family. The second story will be a VIP style tasting room with an outdoor deck for gatherings.”

In the meantime, a comfortable tasting room has been put together in the barrel room that is open daily 11am to 6pm at the vineyard which is on De Portola Rd. between Keyways and Leonesse Wineries. There, visitors can taste and purchase 6 wines: a 2007 Pinot Grigio, a 2007 La Rosa with a lovely strawberry summer taste, a 2007 Bellisimo, a 2007 Moscato, a 2006 Sangiovese, aged 17 months in American Oak and a 2006 Old Vine Zinfandel with brilliant aromas of ripe blueberry and blackberry. Robert pointed out that “we will have a Cabernet and a Chardonnay soon, and we have just planted Brunello Sangiovese clones on the property. Our wine club is up and running and is offering 25% off on all wines.”

I fell in love with the ’07 Bellissimo, a refreshing white that reminded me of a smooth Sauvignon Blanc, and the ’06 Sangiovese with grapes sourced from Paso Robles. In my enthusiasm for this infant Vineyard and winery, I tripped and addressed Robert as Mondavi. Correcting myself, it occurred to me that maybe, just maybe, Robert Renzoni may one day be the Robert Mondavi of Temecula Wine Country. The wine is that good! Call 951-302-VINO or access information at www.robertrenzonivineyards.com.


More From Temecula
Cougar Vineyard and Winery is another of Temecula’s newest wineries with the first husband and wife winemaking team: Rick and Jennifer Buffington. They own about 10 acres and also believe the Italian style wines are what is best grown in this area. They are also on DePortola Rd where last year they were medaled with their Chardonnay, estate Sangiovese, Muscat Canelli and Riesling. Cougar is also planting Montepulciano, Aglianico, Vermentino and Primitivo grapes. Look them up at www.cougarvineyards.com.