Get to Know Mt. Veeder-Headquarters for HESS Collection

by Frank Mangio

High over the Napa Valley, on the slopes of Mt. Veeder, just 15 minutes from Highway 29, lies HESS Collection Vineyard and Winery, some 2,100 feet from the valley floor. Founded by Swiss winery owner Donald Hess in 1989, the winery has distinguished itself as a producer of fine premium wines like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

Hess has evolved into one of the deans of worldwide wine making in such far-flung capitals as Australia with Peter Lehmann Winery, South Africa with Glen Carlou and Argentina with Bodega Colume’.

HESS farms some 310 acres on Mt. Veeder along with single sites of 175 and 210 acres in Napa Valley. In Monterey, HESS owns 310 acres and produces an excellent value Chardonnay ($10.)

Director of Winemaking Dave Guffy is the hands-on Director of Winemaking for HESS Collection, shown pouring new releases at the Posiedon in Del Mar.

Dave Guffy is the HESS Collection’s Director of Winemaking since 1999. He had already gained a solid reputation with Kendall Jackson Wines, producing Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and some Syrah. Now he had an opportunity to make fine Cabernet Sauvignon.

“As a young man I loved Cabernet especially from Napa Valley,” he explained. “Now I had a chance to be on top of Napa, literally, making mountain Cab. Mountain fruit is different that valley floor fruit, and so are the wines. They are structured, complex rich wines.”

Nowadays Guffy is also involved in “small block” wines that are blended with some extraordinary varietals. “Malbec brings a softening quality to our Mt. Veeder 19 Block Cuvee 2008,” he revealed. “The volcanic soils of the mountain and the 6 varietals, combine to make this Cuvee a delight to the senses.” The wine is aged 16 months in French Oak. Expect aromas of black cherry and ripe plum accented with vanilla and cardamom. As you might imagine it is a big finish wine and my favorite of the group. ($36.)

When pressed, Guffy revealed a personal affair with Syrah, so much so his personal residence is a Syrah vineyard. He uses the grape as a key ingredient for his proprietary blends. This time of year, Guffy is walking the HESS vineyards. It isn’t just the grapes. “I need to see the health of the vineyards and what shape everything is in,” he said. This fact is wrapped in the philosophy of Owner Donald Hess: “Nurture the land, and return what you take.” That way, wines are delivered that speak to their natural origins.

Learn more at www.hesscolection.com. Phone 707-255-1144.

Wine Bytes for Valentine’s Day

The ultimate Valentine’s Trio: wine, cheese and chocolates will be featured at a class Sat. Feb. 11 from 2 to 4pm at Sbicca’s in Del Mar. Pairings of wine and cheese and wine and chocolate. Five wines tasted. $45. for 1, $84. for 2 people. RSVP at 858-442-2749.

Sun. Feb. 12 it’s a Valentine’s concert from 5:30-8:30pm at Orfila Winery in Escondido. The duo of Mike McGill and Jared Gianquinto play. Call 760-738-6500 x 20 for your RSVP.

Vino Valentino is the theme of the annual event at Bernardo Winery in Rancho Bernardo, Sun. Feb. 12 from 6 to 9pm. Delicious wines, champagne, food and desserts in the barrel room and tasting room. Live music and horse and carriage rides. Tickets $60. pp. $110./couple. 858-487-1866 for reservations.

Thornton Winery in Temecula is planning a Romantic Rendezvous Tues. Feb. 14 starting at 7pm. Private tables with candlelight. Dinner and wines in the elegant Champagne Room and Caves. $80. ea. RSVP at 951-699-0099.

Valentine’s Day in the San Diego Botanic Garden in Encinitas, Tues. Feb. 14 from 5to 8pm will feature special touches like champagne, hors d’oeuvres, chocolates, live entertainment, professional photo, coffee lounge and more. $75. per couple. Details at 760-436-3036 x206.

The Pinnacle Restaurant at Falkner Winery in Temecula has a Valentine’s Dinner on Sun. and Tues. Feb. 12 and 14. Enjoy 4 course meals with individual wine pairings. Live entertainment. Seating at 7pm. $79. pp. Wine Club members $69. Call the winery at 951-676-8231 ext 1.

A Valentine’s four course dinner featuring live music is planned for the Westgate Hotel, downtown San Diego Tues. Feb. 14 starting at 6pm. $79. ea. $99. with wine pairings. Reserve now at 619-557-3655.

Meritage at Callaway Winery in Temecula is staging a romantic night on Tues. Feb. 14 with Chef Henry presenting a Pre Fixe dinner menu with seating at 5:30 and 7:30pm. A rose will be presented to each lady, plus small bite appetizer and special Callaway Bella Blanc upon seating. Price is $75. Call 951-587-8889 for an RSVP.

Callaway’s Return to Greatness

by Frank Mangio

A little over 40 years ago, a dynamic businessman named Ely Callaway started up a winery in Temecula with his name on the building. Callaway Vineyard and Winery was born. His heart was really in golf and the equipment that makes the sport work, but he also loved premium wines and found in the Temecula area, the perfect spot to start a winery. It was a 1,600 foot plateau on what would be the entrance to Temecula Wine Country. He ignored so called experts who said the area would never produce premium wine and went about promoting the region. Ely Callaway sold the winery in 1981 and went on to fame and fortune in golf equipment, and a succession of corporate owners ruled Callaway Winery and produced boring wine.

Ely Callaway

Now in the hands of the Linn Family of San Diego, the passion and quality have come back and the Ely Callaway legacy continues.

Much of the credit is given the Executive Chef of the winery’s Meritage Restaurant, Michael Henry; and their wine maker Craig Larson, a Canadian with a passion for Old World Wines.

Henry, a world traveler, developed an old world style with a farmer’s approach, insisting on the freshest ingredients available. The day I sampled the eclectic menu, Henry was in an Italian mood and the result was a delicious combination of Shaved Prosciutto Flatbread with Zucchini, Fennel, Baby Tomato and Basil for openers. Then we moved into the Pan Roasted Organic Chicken Cutlet, and finished with the Veal, Beef and Ricotta Meatball Parmesan with Rigatoni “Agli Olio,” Capers and Arugula.

Craig Larson, the newest wine maker for Callaway got right to the point. “I am a lover of the French Rhone Valley varietal, especially southern Rhone like the Chateau du Pape district that offers Syrah, Grenache and Cincault,” he said. “They do more blending and get more flavors with fruit-forward wine.” Larsen is unique as a wine maker. He earned a Master Sommelier certification and was Wine Director at the world-renowned Ritz-Carlton Resort in Laguna Niguel, before resuming wine making in Washington prior to coming to Callaway. “I want all grapes to be estate grapes,” he declared. “We have harvested and bottled Mouvedre and will be planting Grenache, Cincault and Rousanne. We need to get to know what this soil can do. We have produced less, so the quality can be the best.”

In a recent column, I wrote about the beautiful 2008 Viognier coming out of Callaway, with its tropical, sensuous pleasures. It’s what you can expect from the new Callaway. Learn more at www.callawaywinery.com.

Sniffing Around the Temecula Wine Scene

An old seafaring phrase is that a higher tide raises all boats; and so it is that Temecula Wine Country is producing much better wine from many wineries these days.

I first met Marcelo Doffo over a month ago at the most recent Wine Country event, the World of Wine Barrel Tasting. I like a lot of things about my job but right up there on top is the private tastings of ultra premium varietals that are “under the table.” Doffo had some real treasures. His Italian-Argentinian heritage oozed Old World.

Marcelo Doffo

Marcelo Doffo makes a point on making wine next to his 2006 Tiarella Blend at Doffo Winery in Temecula. His outdoor courtyard, part of the 15 acres tucked away in wine country, has a wood-burning oven and grill for gatherings, while classical music plays in the vineyard to “soothe the grapes.”

Wines to try at Doffo include: 2009 Malbec, 2009 Zinfandel, 2006 Tiarella Blend and a vintage Merlot that goes for $300., if there are any bottles left. See www.doffowines.com.

The new Europa Village has opened its doors, opening a new era in wineries in Temecula. The owners envision a muti-cultural French, Spanish and Italian setting with buildings for shops, wine tasting, events and gracious service. It’s open daily from 10am to 5pm and located near Callaway. Access information at www.europavillage.com.

A guided walking tour of Old Town Temecula Tasting Rooms is now available through an Apple I Phone application. It offers narrated accurate turning directions and insights to wine tasting in Old Town. It’s offered though GPSmyCity.com. For details, contact Linda Kissam at 951-526-4540

Wine Bytes

The Wine Rave, scheduled for Apr. 28 has been moved forward to Thurs. June 23 from 7 to 10pm at FLUXX nightclub downtown San Diego. Questions, call 619-312-1212.

Il Fornaio in the Del Mar Plaza has the next Festa Regionale now to Wed. May 15. This time the region of Abruzzo is saluted. Entrees from this district are presented, along with native wines. For an RSVP, call 1-888-ITALIAN.

Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido is doing a Mothers Day Champagne and Cupcakes event Sat. May 7 from 2 to 4pm, including Blanc de Blanc and Rose’ for $10. pp. Details at 760-745-1200.

Opolo Wines from Paso Robles are the featured varietals at the Wine Encounter in Hillcrest, Tues. May 10 from 7 to 9pm. Light appetizers included. Cost is $18. Call 619-543-WINE.

SAGE Grill in Encinitas has a Franciscan wine dinner Mon. May 16 starting with a reception at 6:30pm. RSVP and details at 760-943-7243.

The Venetian Hotel in Las Vegas is the site for Wine Spectator’s Grand Wine Tour 2011, Sat. May 14 from 7 to 10pm. Over 200 of the world’s finest wines will be poured. Light buffet and free Riedel glass included. See www.grandtour.winespectator.com.

Rhythm and Vine is Music, Food and Wine

by Frank Mangio

Indulge all your senses Saturday April 9 from 6 to 9pm at Westfield Center North County San Diego, as Rhythm and Vine comes again for an unforgettable night of hot tunes, hot food and cool, award-winning wine, to benefit the Boys and Girls Club of Greater San Diego.

The music lineup includes the Clay Colton Band with Rock, Country and Folk (shown in photo), Simeon Flick with Acoustic Soul, and Anthony Garcia (Flemenco Guitar). Over 60 wineries will be pouring, paired with 35 gourmet restaurants.

Under the professional guidance of Fast Forward Event Productions, with an unbeatable history of success in large wine and other lifestyle events, the Boys and Girls Club has found a singular food, music and wine event to raise funds for the 25,000 plus children of San Diego County who ultilize its services.

A highlight for guests is the optional VIP tent granting VIP ticket holders access to exclusive food and beverage partners, as well as a VIP after-party that will last until 10pm. The cost is $125. in advance and $150. at the door. General admission tickets cost $75. in advance and $100. at the door. A special discount is available for students and the military-two tickets for $99, pre sale only. Purchase tickets at www.rhythmandvine.org. You can call 760-858-0591, x203 for questions.

Most wine countries in California are represented with generous pours of Cabernet, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Mourvedre, Sauvignon Blanc and a host of wine blends.

One of the wines showcased in Rhythm and Vine is Callaway Winery of Temecula, fresh from big wins at the 2011 Winemaker Challenge in San Diego.

Callaway Winery in Temecula has recently won Gold for its Chardonnay and will be at the Rhythm and Vine event in Escondido.

Callaway was Temecula’s first winery and lately has come a long way with recently changed ownership, winemaker and marketing support. They have secured gold with the 2008 Winemaker’s reserve Chardonnay and 2009 Winemaker’s Reserve Late Harvest Chardonnay.

Other wineries worth noting are: Artesa of Napa Valley, Cass from Paso Robles and Michael-David from Lodi.

Wine-Speak from Robert Renzoni

I really enjoy trading comments on wine with the new “millennial.” Say what, you say? That’s’ OK, I had no clue what this new wine force was until I found out it’s a crucial part of the marketing of Paso Robles wine country, and their college and night club events. It’s all the young adult generation who turned 21 in 2000, to the present time.

I was at a wine dinner recently at the Temecula Creek Inn and they were featuring nearby wines by Robert Renzoni, who himself is a young, good looking Italian guy who does wine-speak in an easy-going harmonious manner. He’s all about family. Robert is full of stories about father Fred’s involvement in Italian wines from back east and how they have built up a family tradition of wine since 1886.

Robert Renzoni, left, brought his wines to Temecula Creek Inn to pair up with the tasty Meditteranean small bites of Chef Sal Giuliano

A Pinot Grigio, Julia’s Vineyard, is named after his mother, and La Rosa 2008 Rose’ is named after his grandmother. As he likes to say “alla famiglia!” With this spirit in place, many young “millennials” who came that night listened intently to the wine stories and spoke up about their wine choices. A young, well-dressed lady beside me (who brought her young baby to the event) flashed a winning smile and loved the Robert Renzoni 2008 Sangiovese as a beautifully structured, balanced body of wine with a soft finish. The Temecula Creek Inn event planners scored big-time on this one. Check out future events at www.temeculacreekinn.com.

Wine Bytes

PAON Restaurant & Wine Bar is planning a Taste of Bordeaux Sat. April 2 from 2 to 5pm in the Wine Bar, served with chef’s selection of fine cheese and fruit. Five wines will range from an ’09 Blanc to an ’07 St. Emilion. A wine host will be at PAON to educate. $20. pp. Call 760-729-7377.

Falkner Winery in Temecula will have Free Live Jazz on Sundays, starting April 3 from Noon to 3pm. It will be held on the outside lawn area next to the Tasting Room. Saxman Jason Weber will blow.

Lovers of Italian wines will want to get on a plane and go to Verona for this years’ Vinitaly, one of the largest showcases for Italy, Thurs. April 7 to Mon. April 11. Banfi of Tuscany plays a leading role in the event.

Proper, a Gastro Pub next to PETCO Park downtown San Diego will have Anglim Winery of Paso Robles in a wine dinner on Mon. Apr. 4 for $49. ea. RSVP at 619-255-7520. Amglim is a small-lot Rhone style winery.

South Coast Winery Resort and Spa in Temecula brings in the blessing of the Vines Celebration & BBQ Sun. Apr. 10 from 4 to 7pm. Guests take the processional tour through the vineyards for the blessing and chefs cook a BBQ’d meal of Bratwurst, chicken and burgers, with live entertainment and dancing. Call 951-587-9463 for pricing.

RELM Wine Bistro, downtown Carlsbad is hosting Pre-Dating Speed Dating with the next event Sun. Apr. 17 at 5pm and 7pm. Different age groups are matched up so call for details on pricing and demographs. 760-805-5398. Happpy hour is now extended from 3 to 7pm at RELM.

The latest issue of Dining Out San Diego, a free glossy magazine on restaurants and menus, is now on display at hotels, restaurants, wineries and galleries.

Taste of Wine TV Profile: Cameron Hughes, Wine Entrepreneur of the Year

by Frank Mangio
Every so often I am granted an interview with a wine owner and personality that I really look forward to unwrapping. Such was the opportunity to spend some time with Cameron Hughes of Cameron Hughes Wine at the San Diego Press Club holiday party in Point Loma.

“We buy grapes on the spot market and got the company going in 2007,” he began. “We really began to make a lot of wine with various partnerships like COSTCO and that enabled us to grow quickly and flexibly, by focusing on vineyard districts with an established reputation that were having quality harvests. The identities of the vineyards selected are a closely guarded secret to protect their price points.”

Photo: Cameron Hughes

Cameron Hughes bottles and sells the wine at significant discounts. He rightly chose Napa Valley Cabernet to establish a name and early success. “The focus is on fantastic pricing and staying true to the business model. We move quickly to buy at the right wholesale price to fuel growth,” he declared. “We don’t own vineyards. We store, process and bottle at large warehouses, or partner up with a leading winery for their facilities. We look at appellations that have excess capacity and that can take off in sales.” Cameron Hughes pricing sweet spot is the $10. to $25. range. This is a good spot to be in. The low end with a similar model is owned by Fred Franzia and his Bronco Wines of Modesto, founder of boxed wines and the famous Charles (Two Buck Chuck) Shaw with wines at Trader Joes for $2.

A small amount of grapes in this brand come from Napa Valley but most are from the San Joaquin Valley, never a quality choice. (Hughes is also from Modesto, but that’s where the similarity ends.)

Recently Hughes has applied his formula for success to other districts in California like the Santa Ynez Valley, Sonoma, and now Oregon and Chile. “We want to bridge the gap between the producer and retail seller,” he revealed. “We provide cash flow to the venture for a percentage and take the wine up the ladder of success. Our goal is always to provide the best high-end wines for a very reasonable price point. I am watching the wine grape market every day.” A prime example of Cameron Hughes quality would be the Lot 200, 2008 Napa Valley Rutherford/Oakville/Stags Leap Cabernet. Hughes calls it “the best deal ever.” Check it out at COSTCO or the website www.www.chwine.com.

Pinot Noir Wineries Pop the Corks in L.A.
Pinot Days comes to Southern California with a Grand Festival on Saturday January 15 at Barker Hangar in Santa Monica from 2 to 6pm.

Thursday and Friday, January 13 and 14, a “Table Hop” dinner and a Meet the Winemakers”dinner , both in Los Angeles, will complete the extended weekend of Pinot Noir entertainment, food and world-class wines.

Pinot Noir is a Burgundy-inspired wine of French birth. It thrives in the coastal elevations of California and Oregon. Most are hand crafted with great care. I am a huge lover of great Pinot.

Photo: Jim Bernau.

Two California brands showed up in my Top Ten Tastes for 2010 and Oregon Pinots have made the list in the past. Jim Bernau purchased what is now Willamette Valley Vineyards in the fertile Willamette Valley of Oregon in 1983. Now the vineyard has expanded to 250 acres of rich, red soil and sits on slopes with about two tons per acre picked for highest quality. Their 2008 new release Pinot Noir will be a spotlight wine at the Pinot Days Grand Festival.


The producers have kept the price at a very reasonable $60.00 per person base price, plus a complimentary Burgundy-style glass. For tickets and other options, go to www.pinotdays.com, or call 415-246-2967 for further information.

Wine Bytes
Bacchus Wine Market downtown San Diego presents Wines from Spain, Fri. Jan. 14 from 4 to 8:30pm. 7 wines from regions like Rioja, Jumilla, Rueda and more. $15. pp. Call 619-236-0005.

Scott’s Restaurant in Orange County hosts the 8th annual Wine Stars of Santa Barbara produced by Learn About Wine, Tues. Jan. 18 from 7 to 9:30pm. 40+ wineries will be pouring. Advance tickets are $89. Call 310-451-7600 for details.

Meritage Wine Market hosts a Burgundy tasting on Fri. Jan. 21 from 6 to 8pm. Cost is $20. More info at 760-479-2500.

Callaway Vineyard & Winery in Temecula kicks off a series of winemaker seminars Sat. Jan. 22 from 10 to 12:30pm. Winemaker Craig Larson will begin with A Taste of Winter. A bottle of wine is included. Cost is $88.50 per seminar, with a discount for club members. Call 951-676-4001.

Vigilucci’s Ristorante in La Jolla has a North to South Wine Dinner Sat. Jan. 22 at 6pm. $65. ea. for a three course dinner paired with regional Italian wines. For an RSVP and details, call 858-454-9664.

Meritage Chef Wins Temecula Valley Open

Michael Henry, Meritage at Callaway's Executive Chef, was the winner of the Temecula Valley Chef Open, an event that was part of a fund-raiser for the Oak Grove Center for at-risk youth in Murrieta. The competition, which featured chefs from local restaurants including Anthony's Lounge and Ristorante, Crivello Ristorante Italiano and Twenty/20 Grill and Wine Bar, was held at Pechanga Resort and Casino. Chef Henry's winning dish was a Balinese peppercorn seared ahi with a pomegranate sauce and a salad of butternut squash, fennel and duck confit.

Callaway Offers Wine Making Seminars

Callaway Vineyard & Winery will offer the fourth in a series of winemaking seminars on Jan. 23 from 10 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.

Winemaker Craig Larson will take you into the vineyard and teach you why pruning is good for the vine, how to prune correctly and what to consider before snipping away. This instruction will be followed by a relaxed tasting in the Chardonnay Room where topics like how to serve and store wines will be discussed.

In addition, various bottle sizes and shapes will be viewed and you will learn what their shapes can tell you about the wine that’s in them.

They finish this series of seminars with a delightful tasting of their sparkling and dessert wines as well as their tawny port. they will be pairing these wines with dessert. They'll send you home with a bottle of Callaway wine, two wine glasses, a collection of dessert recipes that pair well with Callaway wines, and a certificate of completion. Cost: $75 per seminar.